cletus Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Unfortunately that would really cock over the geometry, cause bump steer and less than ideal camber curve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 I have done some testing. I packed out the balljoint by 10 degrees, eased the binding but is very close to maxing out. so with the spare set of arms I pie cut them to 15 degrees. At ride height the balljoint sits neutral, and max lift and lower it doesn’t max out. i have noticed that the balljoint has an angle on it from factory of around 6/7 degree by eye. finding a flatted/neutral balljoint would be the ideal solution though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Any issue with either of these for cert? Lol just realised after posting, they appear to be the exact same arms just with different sticker. Went for pre-cert alignment today, if I'm lucky front camber can be brought into line with genuine Merc adjustment bolts and raising the coilovers maybe 10mm. Rear needs something like 2° less negitive camber, caster just squeaked in spec. Oh unrelated but one of the inner tierods is pulling out of the rack so that's fun. Edit: I've been told by a couple people that should be within cert spec for camber, what's your professional thoughts @cletus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Official line is no more than half a degree outside manufacturer spec, and if outside spec has to drive satisfactory https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2012_Suspension_Camber_Angle_Guide.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjlsIeJr6qEAxVSiK8BHUbGArMQFnoECBgQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2TXa5XjvMsW-u1i31FFmeU 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Yeah knew the 0.50° max over stock. Think it's the MIN being a full degree more than MAX on the specifications that's thrown me off. Tyre shop reckoned I needed to get rid of about 2°00' rear, about 0.5° from the fronts/think he was more concerned about the fucked rack end. Edit: been a long day and my brain was stuck in neutral haha Clicked that it's negative numbers so -2 is smaller than -1, looking at it I'm thinking it's within cert specs, I'm allowed -2°50' rear for cert going by that min being -2°00' So I'm all good right? The right rear toe is going to be a case of teaching the alignment guy how to adjust "not adjustable" Merc rear toe/probably have to take my triple square sockets down to do it but should be easy enough. Then 1.25° rear camber bushings and factory option front adjustment bolts can be added later without effecting cert to try save tyres a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 That sheet is in degrees and minutes- that means 2°30' is your max not 2.50° So only one side is over on the rear I'd just raise it a whisker and avoid having to buy arms 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 1 degree is 60 minutes, so half a degree = .30, not .50. Your left rear camber final is 2.38 (2 degrees 38 minutes), which is just over 2.5 degrees, (only 8 minutes over) I'd just run it through as is. The rest is fine and as its close enough that if it were checked again on a machine it could be within. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 4 minutes ago, cletus said: That sheet is in degrees and minutes- that means 2°30' is your max not 2.50° So only one side is over on the rear I'd just raise it a whisker and avoid having to buy arms Hah, good timing, you peeking through my window! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 19 minutes ago, cletus said: That sheet is in degrees and minutes- that means 2°30' is your max not 2.50° Ah so that's the minutes he was talking about! There was some confusion when I was talking about bushings or arms that give X° adjustment and he was saying they'd give "probably X minutes" 19 minutes ago, cletus said: I'd just raise it a whisker and avoid having to buy arms So you're saying raise it up to 4% for cert, then it'll still be compliant with the +/- 5% variance when I drop it back down and fit camber bushings later right? Think 4% is about 13mm at the guard. I was talking to Mike Reid on Tuesday, seemed good to deal with on the phone at least, but he def made it sound like I'd be wasting my time taking it to him if the sheet is even a hair over the .50°, "but Euros have a huge factory allowance so you'll be fine with it slammed" lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Sometimes you can get a tiny bit out of it if there's no adjustment, by loosening all the bolts in the rear suspension and put a ratchet strap around the bottom of the wheels , tighten it a bit and do all the bolts up again 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 That's a smart idea! Current plan is a combo of trying that along with raising the rear 10mm. Them alignment with minimal petrol in and cert with a full tank for the extra weight haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 How is your droop vs full suspension travel looking? From memory 40mm droop or 1/3 of full suspension travel. When I was building mine I was told to raise the rear to get more travel. But by the time I had diddled the bumpstop to be a more suitable size / taper, I had to lower the rear to stay within spec and hit my 1/3 mark. Many hours farting around with tiny adjustments on platform height / shock collar adjustments to get there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 That's actually a really good question that I'll try figure out tonight/tomorrow after work! I know there's at least some droop, but yeah no idea how much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotormotor Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Cert needed for quick release steering wheel or WOF issue? Need Boss kit for my new Momo wheel. NRG have quick release kits, are these gonna be a WOF issue needing a cert? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 “A vehicle fitted with a quick release steering wheel must always be referred for LVV certification and is only permitted within strict criteria.” https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/steering-and-suspension/steering-and-suspension-systems#tab2 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Can only have a quick release if it's a competition vehicle with cage/authority card, or in a special case like a tiny sports car where you need a removable wheel to get in /out 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 What is the go with a tipper flat deck on a sheep shagger hilux? Does this require cert? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotormotor Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Thanks, Is a squish getting in the 7 but street reg car 100%, clears that up. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 On 19/12/2023 at 21:03, kws said: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/__data/assets/pdf_file/0007/98575/In-service-WoF-and-CoF-VIRM-March-2024-amendment-preview.pdf This was sent around work today. From March 24 you can new fail a WOF on your licence plates not being up to spec, and that includes the plates not being official (with the correct markings) and even goes as far as to indicate date and letter ranges for the types of plates. So if you had an aftermarket supplier convert your plates that are newer than MX#### to black, they have grounds to fail them since they know they are too modern, and don't have the reflective NZ logo of modern black plates. It also straight up says that plates have to me aluminium, so a sticker plate now fails a WOF. Plates too dirty, fail. Plates worn or faded, fail. Gonna be a lot of people caught by this. This has now been postponed due to everyone saying WTF to NZTA. Especially for trailers. 3 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 What was the problem with trailers? Just people cutting plates to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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