Popular Post Yowzer Posted November 20, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted November 20, 2018 People can't even fit wheel nuts correctly. Requiring a cert for a pedal swap is completely justifiable IMO 8 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 22 hours ago, cletus said: yep anything adjustable that wasn't originally, needs cert. have not seen anyone cut down the cones, only seen people use adjustable ones. if the cone is solid, and you keep the "spring" captive, probably no reason you couldn't shorten it Many thanks, I figure this would be the case. Wasnt terribly fussed on using them, onto TM they go.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Mags on to stock wheel hubs. For cert do you need hub-centric rings when using tapered wheel nuts? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 No not required, unless you are using spacers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 24, 2018 Share Posted November 24, 2018 Seat mounting question mounting some non original buckies onto stock rails. If I attach a bit of 25x25 box to the factory rails, then affix the captive nuts in the seat mounting point, does that box section need to be the heavy wall variety? I'm not sure that those press in plastic bungs you can buy will fit the thicker wall box. alternatively, what wall thickness would that box need to be? And at the front, the two sets of mounting points are 43mm and 72mm away from one another, as well as 25mm wider each side. Since I can't use the box section running across due to the front to back variation, would a slab or 8mm steel plate with 17mm spacers between the plate and the seat (to make the seat Base parallel to the rails because 25mm Box at the back) be sufficient? The studs sticking up from the rails are m8. And the seat has six m6 capscrews. Two at the back, and two pairs at the front) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 Can I have my hand brake cable running through the driveshaft hoop? As it sits it naturally goes through the hoop. I assume this is a no no, but before I go and modify other things to move the cable I figured I'd ask the question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Would be less than ideal the driveshaft coming loose and grabbing the cable to give you sweet rear braking. 2c 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 If your driveshaft fell out the rear brakes locking would probably be the least of your worries tbh 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Can still roll in a car with a busted drive shaft though, Roman provided proof of this. My theory, and it's only a theory, is that nothing should be within the hoop except the driveshaft. Credit to @Roman for the pic 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 On 25/11/2018 at 09:17, RUNAMUCK said: Seat mounting question mounting some non original buckies onto stock rails. If I attach a bit of 25x25 box to the factory rails, then affix the captive nuts in the seat mounting point, does that box section need to be the heavy wall variety? I'm not sure that those press in plastic bungs you can buy will fit the thicker wall box. alternatively, what wall thickness would that box need to be? And at the front, the two sets of mounting points are 43mm and 72mm away from one another, as well as 25mm wider each side. Since I can't use the box section running across due to the front to back variation, would a slab or 8mm steel plate with 17mm spacers between the plate and the seat (to make the seat Base parallel to the rails because 25mm Box at the back) be sufficient? The studs sticking up from the rails are m8. And the seat has six m6 capscrews. Two at the back, and two pairs at the front) probably need a pic to try and understand this better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 On 25/11/2018 at 17:20, BlownCorona said: Can I have my hand brake cable running through the driveshaft hoop? As it sits it naturally goes through the hoop. I assume this is a no no, but before I go and modify other things to move the cable I figured I'd ask the question no, cable should be outside the loop 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Yeah figured as much re. The brake cable. It's not much of a major to get the cable on the outside. 1 step closer 2 steps back ect ect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
187inc Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 2 hours ago, kiwiplymouth said: Local mechanics put my mates loop at the back end,then when told it was in wrong place,they charged him again to move it up front,unreal I hope your mate told them where to drive a shaft.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_Fleming Posted November 30, 2018 Share Posted November 30, 2018 .....on the topic of handbrakes, what's the deal with retrofitting an electric actuator handbrake from a late model instead of using the traditional cable operation? And if they are accepted for Certification purposes, has anybody got ideas on which vehicle is best as a donor.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted November 30, 2018 Share Posted November 30, 2018 You can. Page 14 in here has the requirements https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf One of the requirements seems to be it has to be an automatic for some reason? The only one ive seen that operates the cable are aftermarket units that look like a linear actuator , otherwise the oe ones I've ever seen have been in the caliper. That's not to say they don't exist, just I haven't seen one 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_Fleming Posted November 30, 2018 Share Posted November 30, 2018 cheers for that Clint, I have had a look at the E-stopp aftermarket kit, and while looking on ebay there appears to be loads from late model euros that could fit the bill.....I have a tangle of pipes and suspension linkages that might make the OEM cables a tight squeeze..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Don't use a Kia or Hyundai Santa Fe one. I've had to tow several of them that have locked up and won't disengage. Car becomes useless. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Oh.. ..and the other one I've had to tow are Range Rovers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_Fleming Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 ^^^^ cheers for the info.....was thinking something along the lines of the S-type Jag deal....any thoughts? https://www.ebay.com/itm/153251027332?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 It's possible that Jag uses the same kit as a Rangey. Check that out first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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