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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Well technically anyone can repair rust currently, a WOF Inspector

will often request to see the repair prior to paint and finishing.

However we have the right to request a repair is carried out by a agreed repairer to ensure the repair is done a high enough level.

I have only done this on two occasions, one was when a car came back with a huge rust whole full of poorly sanded bog and black paint, the other on significant structure repair.

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Note 3

The vehicle inspector may request additional relevant information from a repairer or other relevant person. The vehicle inspector should withhold the warrant of fitness if there is reason to believe that the vehicle has:

a) structural damage, or

B) inadequate structural repair(s), or

c) corrosion damage

to the extent that it could affect the vehicle’s structural strength or one of the vehicle’s safety requirements. If the owner questions the decision, the vehicle inspector should recommend the vehicle owner obtain further written assessment from a panel beater.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact

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Yeah, my WoF guys know I do all my own rust work now and if they're really concerned they'll generally just ask to see it before it has any finishing done so they can ensure it's structurally sound. Which all ties in to what the WoF boys have just said.

Brool Story Co.

Just do a stellar job on it and you're golden.

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Hi There,

I have some AJPS coilovers from Australia, i have had them x-rayed and they passed, however the collars are stitchwelded and not welded right the way around. Would this pass cert?

Also, i have some UEO STYLE (Nagisa Autos, made in Japan) lower control arms that have rose joints. These couldnt be xrayed without stripping the paint. Do these need to pass an xray inspection for cert also?

Thanks

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Yeh I'd heard that on civilians just imagine the boxes to be quite long. Can go auto but don't really want to as it takes away some of the fun. A bit sick of the autos I drive.

No they're very short, but now I think about it they may be a bit fat.

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Hi There,

I have some AJPS coilovers from Australia, i have had them x-rayed and they passed, however the collars are stitchwelded and not welded right the way around. Would this pass cert?

Also, i have some UEO STYLE (Nagisa Autos, made in Japan) lower control arms that have rose joints. These couldnt be xrayed without stripping the paint. Do these need to pass an xray inspection for cert also?

Thanks

depends on a few things, what car, location/loading of arms, etc. Got any pics?

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Hey there looking at 2wd options behind a td42 want a manual I think. Wondering if removing all the transfer case related bits cutting off the side bit and welding up the hole and just running it 2wd is acceptable.

yes thats fine. Is it still in a patrol? or you swapping into something else.

 

You can remove the front driveshaft on one of those and it doesnt need a cert if so.

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Hey there looking at 2wd options behind a td42 want a manual I think. Wondering if removing all the transfer case related bits cutting off the side bit and welding up the hole and just running it 2wd is acceptable.

When i was doing up my 300zx i used a electronic shiftkit destined for a nissan safari rumour has it the guts are the same in auto trans. Would be worth seeing if a 5 speed box from a turbo z32 could have the td42 belhousing bolted on. Failing that a 350z box may also work both pop up occasionally and are well priced compared to Toyota options.

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depends on a few things, what car, location/loading of arms, etc. Got any pics?

Hi There,

 

It's for an AE86

 

Pics here, let me know if you need anything more specific or need any other questions answered:

th_P6101413.jpg

 

th_P6101410.jpg

 

th_P6101409.jpg

 

th_P6101408.jpg

 

th_P6101407.jpg

 

th_P6101406.jpg

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They are the same box and the bell housings are interchangeable had a mate test it with my spare when he had his engine out. Never thought to try a shift kit cheers will look into this.

And no it wouldn't go into a patrol.

They ARE the same box as far as compatibility is concerned BUT there are a few differences aside from the the transfer case.

For example the auto behind the vh45 v8(Nissan leopard I think) has extra clutch plates in at least one bowl. (And these can easily be put into the td42 auto)

There are a few things you can do to those transmissions to make them extremely sporty. First off I'd cut the 5v (I believe, its been a few years) line pressure wire. Being at full line pressure all the time (as side from just at full throttle) makes all changes much faster and chrisper.

Also they are extremely easy to convert to full manual shifting. There are a couple of solenoids which you need to energize in different combinations to achieve the gear you want. Eg, put the shifter in drive and energize A solenoid and you get second, energize A and B and you get second, energies none and you 3rd, energize B and you get 4th or OD. (I GOT THAT ORDER COMPLETELY WRONG BUR YOU GET THE GIST)

In my safari I had done this with a few relays switched by the inhibitor switch and those relays switched the solenoids. It worked splendid and had no trans ecu at all.

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Q#1:

 

Welding a 25x25x3mm seat mount rail/bracket  (horizontally/across) to a chassis rail/chassi rail extension that is already 3mm wall 75x50, do I need to put a 3mm plate to spread the load on top of the 3mm wall RHS?  i.e. tunnel - chassis rail - chassis rail - sill

 

seems like overkill to me but reading the section of the hobby car manual that is what it is telling me, although it doesnt talk about wall thickness of the chassis rails additional crossmembers or mounting brackets are being welded to.

 

18786691651_df0a8e201f_b.jpg

 

Q#2:

 

Is it ok to mout driveshaft hoops to the transmission tunnel rather than the floor? i.e. if there is a suitable flatish part of the semi vertical part of the tunnel that you can fit requisuite size mounting plates

 

18594578080_6989418ec7_b.jpg

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Q#1:

 

Welding a 25x25x3mm seat mount rail/bracket  (horizontally/across) to a chassis rail/chassi rail extension that is already 3mm wall 75x50, do I need to put a 3mm plate to spread the load on top of the 3mm wall RHS?  i.e. tunnel - chassis rail - chassis rail - sill

 

seems like overkill to me but reading the section of the hobby car manual that is what it is telling me, although it doesnt talk about wall thickness of the chassis rails additional crossmembers or mounting brackets are being welded to.

NVM/I just put the plates in anyway/no big deal.

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