crownin round

Hey Clint thanks for the clarification on all that. While i get things all sorted I was hoping to do some stuff before I head back up north like the body mount and cutting my flares. I was thinking that i will need to renew my WOF in January a will not likely be done with the Cert. So i was wondering would I be able to get a warrant with the mount cut and welded or should i leave this to the last mods. Thanks again Clint This is the method I would be using pretty much (Its the same as my hilux Chassis) or this for more clearance from the tire.\

Hey Clint, back on the adjustable arms idea i know you cant use the other main types due to welding to cast but is this design acceptable? it is fully forged cast not welded. https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpermalink.php%3Fstory_fbid%3D1171863636205511%26id%3D119135261478359&width=500 Id also like to run either a 30mm bodylift with no steering extension to save on buying this piece and having to extend intakes, fuel filler,vacuum lines, etc. This is the steering shaft slip yokes engagement at 30mm body lift. Or run 50mm if that isnt alright there are 3 choices of steering extension. http://shop.snakeracing.com.au/ifs-hilux-steering-shaft-extension/ But for some reason these are not allowed in some of Aus so not sure about here. http://www.vehiclemods.net.au/vmn_steering_extension Uses extra factory toyota slip joint and extra bit of splined shaft or using the idea from above cut the upper spline of an wrecked hilux and use this with extra slip joint essentially a VMN extension from the wreckers. Would also like to fit larger tires but have never seen tire size on a placard so if i dont change rims from cert can i change tire sizes? ie il will be certed on 17x8s (to clear larger prado brakes) and 33s but want to eventually fit 35s am i allowed to swap or is it noted down? Otherwise i will fit the 35s first. Also is cutting a hole in radiator support panel legal as I will be running intercooler piping through it. (about 3 inch holes) To avoid scrub will also be trimming the body mount like so I assume this is all good as i seen one certed and done before but his looked pretty ragged. My struts are adjustable by changing the silver spacer shown below. Does this go on the cert plate even though its not thread adjustable? Thanks feel free to ignore this as i know its not old school.

Sweet and on the topic can adjustable uppers be certed? Because if it needs a cert id prefer go this way. Thinong of something like these. http://www.fjc-mag.com/latest-news/spc-light-racing-launches-new-greasable-toyota-upper-control-arms Or a cast design with adjusment like these. http://www.performancesuspension.com.au/4x4-suspension/p-toyota-hilux-prado-fj-cruiser-4wd-front-adjustable-upper-contol-arms-p-p-psrhil-012-p.html

Hey just a quick not that old school but do extended ball joints require certification. Iv got a wof twice before with them (vtnz and toyota) but my latest wof they want me to get a email/pice of paper from a certifier to say they don't need a cert otherwise I can't get passed? Just wondering about the logistics of it all. Ps it's a press fit style ball joint. Made by Amada Extreme for a KUN26R Hilux.

http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=13694&start=30 this your post? seems the diagram is long gone. imma try figure it out but im a bit hopeless i can do it but need to learn a bit more when coming up with stuff myself.

If you want a better look. And the being able to go back to auto was for if i used the idea in my crown if i do an engine swap.

Ok so below is the basic circuit that has been used to manualise an h shifter and manualise a 12v automatic patrol. I want to know a few things. How would I calculate what size resistors to use in the unmentioned points down the bottom. Pretty much it is on a switch that locks up the torque converter lock up and uses an electric foot switch to disengage it and shift gears. I want to know how I would calculate what size resistors I would use in my 24v safari. It is the same trans but different voltage solenoids. I really like the ability to run both auto and manual. I was wondering if something this simple could be adapted to be used with say a toyota trans or other trans all the time so that the use of a trans controlling ecu wasn't required.

Yeh I think iv seen it on ORE well not pics just a red one for sale. And would have but have a y60 seb safari now and she's doing me just fine for now. And already out of space at the flat. What engineering you doing. Iv got 2 more left on a civil degree.

Love this thing mate was gonna try buy a yellow one here in chch before I got my safari. Are you at th uni with it as I think I saw it there awhile ago when I was handing in a paper

A question on revin. I am looking to revin a car and it has some bad rust. But it's mainly in the rear end around the taillights. There is also some in the bottom of a door and the sills. Also at some pint someone has jacked it next to the jack point and dented the chassis not bent or anything just dented. I kind of want to remove these bits and put it new steel but will that require repair cert etc. Will I need repair certs for the rust work and will I be fine to fix the dents on should I leave them.

What did you end up doing?

hmm id say close to except i do have to say the 4m in the crown is a smoother running engine but it works.

It has a w50 which I though stock was w40 so don't think it's a huge upgrade. But it seems good enough. And it goes quite good think the weight really makes engine feel good.

i may be able to ask about parts what are you guys wanting?

14x9s

It's about an hour and a half from home and not running currently due to whatever reason. Also I barely have space for my cars. I can pm you his contact but I doubt he will sell parts. Although he may do since it won't run and the power steer got stolen by his brother already.

Pump are what I suspect and it's white pretty tidy really no rust 1 broken headlight and missing little bit of Chrome under that light power steer removed. Interior very tidy it's in Geraldine let the reg lapse it is also cheap as fuck less than he would get a scrap I'm fairly sure.

Went and looked at a pretty nice 1988 Volvo 240gl wagon that is pretty mint apart from 2 seat rips. Realy cool car. Only thing was the b23/230 wouldn't start. It was siphoned so dropped in about 10 litres of petrol. Got it going about 10 secs ten nothing drained 2 batterys. Any tips? It turns over and apart from when it did start it has hardly tried. Also if anyone wanted it for parts it would be sweet as has pretty much mint interior including scanidinavian retro snow chains. Also heated seats and electric windows all working.

Try do as what the above post says. You would be one to pull it off.

Yes that is the goal. Legal tire for 14x9 is a 225/40r14 toyo t1r. Legal tire (but not for long apparently) for 14x8 is the 195/45r14 falken ze912 (same sidewall height as 225/40r14 conveniently if running staggered wheels) Wheels are certifiable as long as they are of sound construction and total offset positive or negative does not exceed 20% of the wheel width so about 40 for 8j wheels and 45 for 9j wheels. Will likely run flares anyway so fitting under guards not a huge issue as they will be setup to fit and allow full movement also low profile tyres help as they have less to come in contact with. Would actually prefer 8j but with these falkens changing there spec sheet id want to build on a better resource. Mainly i would have thought this would be a better option tan say fitting 10j and 11j wheels that will never be able to be legal.

I'd be using two outside lips so the original outer lip on the inside and a new lip made to be the outer so getting tyres on should be fine.

Sorry 20% negative offset so like 20% of total wheel width. And the crown has a fairly narrow diff already and flares get me going when done tastefully like sheepers crown which I have read about 5 times in this last week thinking of how much of a God he is doing 2 things I want to do to my car with the r32 irs in the ra28 and bagged crown. But could his chassis modification bar the notching have been solved by running more negative offset 9s with same dish. As his ten don't appear to have the 6-6.5 inch lips that he would have with minus 50 that he could legally run. I'm not sure what tyres he's running but Im guessing they aren't legal.

Ok so legally you can run upto 20% negative offset on a wheel so say -40 or -45 for an 8j or 9j wheel. Which would leave you with say 5 inch outer lips giving lots of dish and availability of tyres why is this not done more. I know to get this offset you need a low ofset narrow wheel as a starting point if widening the outer lip. But could you use day a rim with a 3 inch outer lip and split that off and use as an inner lip and get say 5.5 inch lips giving you around negative 1.5 inch or -37.5 offset in a 9 inch rim and then you can have legal tyres. Any reasons this wouldn't work or is stupid