kicker Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 ^this Spoke to a cert guy about legalities of gearbox swaps (in my case auto to manual), he said if it all bolts ups with no modding of crossmember or drive shaft then all ok and technically you need to keep your original brake pedal too (so if auto that would mean keeping the big special needs pedal they come with), he'd never seen a car fail a wof on that but if you had a prang and insurance companies started digging they could ping you on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Hi guyz/Mr Clint. I've just been reading up on the ol drive shaft loop business, but am not 100% clear on what I need. I've got a Hilux that has had an SR20DET and matching box fitted. The two piece Hilux drive shaft is stock std, but has had the first UJ changed to take the SR spec yoke. The rules say: A front-engine, rear-wheel drive low volume vehicle that has undergone an engine conversion, or has had its factory-fitted engine significantly modified, such that a significant increase in power or torque has resulted, must be fitted with an effective 360-degree front drive-shaft loop, mounted within 150 mm rearward of each front drive-shaft universal. From this, i'd say I only need one loop, 150mm back from the front UJ? Is that correct? I've heard many people say you need one at the back by the diff also? Or do I need one after the center hanger bearing UJ also? CHEERS GUYZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 If you have a two piece shaft you need two hoops. We had a car in for a certbthat had a three piece shaft haha. Lotta hoops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Ahhhh OK, that makes sense. They don't seem to specify what to make the hoop from? 40x5 flat bar or some shiz aint it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stillway Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf 5.22.2 .. (c) be manufactured from a material specification of not less than: (i) in the case of flat‐section material, 50 mm x 5 mm (2” x 13/64”); or (ii) in the case of tubular‐section material, 22 mm x 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Excellent. I have 50x6 at work, will make them from that. Will use 12mm bolts just to be showy. May as well put plate inside the car to make it extra choice. GOOD WORK GUYS! Regards, VG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Bending up a hoop out of 50 x 6 sounds easy but it so ain't. I just bought pre bent d/shaft loops for relatively cheap from one of the local performance stores. You will need to customise it from there but it's a good start on the hoop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 . May as well put plate inside the car to make it extra choice. The cert guy I hope to use also said to have 3mm plate 50x60 with rounded edges ont he car floor as washers for the hoop bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 I was just browsing our steel store, and found some 8" pipe that has a 7mm wall. Was thinking of cutting 50mm wide bands, and then splitting them in half ad the desired height, and welding the flat to them. Be the easiest and tidiest way of doing it i think. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Are you going up to Levin Beaver? Will you leave the car there a couple of days? Just thinking I should just take mine for it's Cert and do the same and we can share a ride there and back or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 I'm also be jumping in on this cert band wagon as discussed with beaver. hah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 3 pieces of shit rolling up for a cert. Should take bets on who gets the worst fail list. LOL 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 KE will need a cert too for the 4A-GE conversion, should plan Cert Fest 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Yep levin for cert. Hoping to get it all sorted in a day trip. Anyway, back on topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Hi guyz/Mr Clint. I've just been reading up on the ol drive shaft loop business, but am not 100% clear on what I need. I've got a Hilux that has had an SR20DET and matching box fitted. The two piece Hilux drive shaft is stock std, but has had the first UJ changed to take the SR spec yoke. The rules say: A front-engine, rear-wheel drive low volume vehicle that has undergone an engine conversion, or has had its factory-fitted engine significantly modified, such that a significant increase in power or torque has resulted, must be fitted with an effective 360-degree front drive-shaft loop, mounted within 150 mm rearward of each front drive-shaft universal. From this, i'd say I only need one loop, 150mm back from the front UJ? Is that correct? I've heard many people say you need one at the back by the diff also? Or do I need one after the center hanger bearing UJ also? CHEERS GUYZ. You buy Al's one by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Alan Kinley? Yeh, its that grotty one he slapped together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 howd you end up with it? lol...saw he had sold it. put 2 an 2 together by the fact your down there and hes just sold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 I used a bit of 150mm dia steam pipe for my drive shaft hoop, works great. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 howd you end up with it? lol...saw he had sold it. put 2 an 2 together by the fact your down there and hes just sold He's been a customer of mine for years. It was pretty cheap, and a bit more interesting than a std lux, so blam, purchased. I used a bit of 150mm dia steam pipe for my drive shaft hoop, works great. Yep, cut mine up, ready to go, such an easy way to do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 I just saw a post on FB where some engineering place in welles did coil over sleeves where they where sitting on a circlip of all things. Surely that's not legit? Circlips don't have that much spine do they? And where the groove has been machined, the minor diameter is surely creating a weakness in the strut tube no? Or am I being a sissy? as mentioned, bilstein does it. have only seen in a non mcpherson strut suspension though. also would be sceptical it could be done on a factory shock housing as they would probably not be thick enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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