Nominal Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 Get the test done first - it needs to "comply with, as a minimum, Tables 6,1, or 6.2 if the AS/NZS 1556.1:2004 Standard" blah blah, basically a certified tester. A report needs to be provided by the tester to verify that the standard for testing has been met, and that the component is considered to be free of defects. (from the HCTM) They recommend magnetic-particle testing for ferrous metals. I'm going to have to go through this process soon. When I asked Andy Smith about it, he said to follow the procedure in the book (as above). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 How much time does cert man invest in scraping back paint etc to find original (stamped) chassis number etc. Wondering if I should find it first and check it against all the tags riveted in engine bay.. OR are all tags sufficient enough for complete ID? Bit paranoid after I nearly ended up with a stolen car (checked carjam.. Got chassis code, checked on interwebs and found it was for totes different body shape, then found out stamped code had been cut out) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 how are rims measured for wof and cert purposes ie how do they tell the difference between a proper inch rim an one the is a 3 inch and 6 inch lip with around a half inch centre between? ans same with offset im not asking what rules are butsay the rim was 5mm more negative than allowed on a 16x9 would it be picked up on or not? assumming 20% of a 9inch rim is 45mm and offset is minus 50-55 i usually measure rims by putting a tape measure thru the spokes and measuring bead to bead as for the offset being too much, a certifier should pick it up, 20% is the maximum, unless you fit different heavier duty hubs as per the LVV std Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 How much time does cert man invest in scraping back paint etc to find original (stamped) chassis number etc. Wondering if I should find it first and check it against all the tags riveted in engine bay.. OR are all tags sufficient enough for complete ID? Bit paranoid after I nearly ended up with a stolen car (checked carjam.. Got chassis code, checked on interwebs and found it was for totes different body shape, then found out stamped code had been cut out) what sort of car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 So um sorry for this again, but just so I understand. Weld up custom coilovers. Fit to car. Book cert. Fail cert on crack testing. Get bit of paper. Remove struts. Send to crack tester. Pass crack test. Refit struts. Present paperwork to certifier. Pass cert! Or is it like ring a certifier and then get paperwork before booking cert/ fitting to car? Sorry I'm confused as to how it works. Get the test done first - it needs to "comply with, as a minimum, Tables 6,1, or 6.2 if the AS/NZS 1556.1:2004 Standard" blah blah, basically a certified tester. A report needs to be provided by the tester to verify that the standard for testing has been met, and that the component is considered to be free of defects. (from the HCTM) They recommend magnetic-particle testing for ferrous metals. I'm going to have to go through this process soon. When I asked Andy Smith about it, he said to follow the procedure in the book (as above). this. if you are confident your suspension modifications will pass cert, get the crack test done first. the only thing that might be a cock up is if theres something with the modification thats no good, ie welding the strut tube to a cast hub, it may pass the crack test but wont pass cert, in that case you would have wasted your money getting the NDT done i get that situation a bit where people have put adjustable suspension in a car and had a wheel alignment done, only to find the suspension is bung or needs to be raised or something like that, making the wheel alignment void or the other way, where the car is all ok just needs a wheel alignment, but then to get it in spec it needs camber arms, which then foul on the body and the suspension has to be raised or modified requiring another inspection........ gah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownin round Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 i usually measure rims by putting a tape measure thru the spokes and measuring bead to bead as for the offset being too much, a certifier should pick it up, 20% is the maximum, unless you fit different heavier duty hubs as per the LVV std So for heavier duty diff could that say going to a full rear live axle diff and hub setup from a heavier vechicle be suffieciently heavier duty or must it be custom stuff? ie my diff is the same as in the toyota estima which weighs around 1700kg compared to my car 1300 shoud this not show the hub assemby can handle a bit more stress than its currently dealing with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 what sort of car? Wb ute Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 i dont think they have a stamped in chassis number? just the riveted tag on the top of the firewall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Yeah well mate reckons its usually stamped so poorly you can't find it as even a rub with sandpaper can remove it and paint fills it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 So for heavier duty diff could that say going to a full rear live axle diff and hub setup from a heavier vechicle be suffieciently heavier duty or must it be custom stuff? ie my diff is the same as in the toyota estima which weighs around 1700kg compared to my car 1300 shoud this not show the hub assemby can handle a bit more stress than its currently dealing with? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf 2.2 ( has the requirements. the fact that your diff is the same isnt really relevant as its the axles and bearings that take the load, the third paragraph explains what you would have to do if you wanted to retain your factory axles and run more than 20% offset Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownin round Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 sorry i didnt say what i meant to i meant take the whole rearend so use the estima hub a rear disk setup also so would be using its hubs et i guess im asking what weight is significant id think ~400kgs would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post R100 Posted September 22, 2014 Popular Post Share Posted September 22, 2014 Cletus thank you for all your input in this thread. Such a massive help for everyone. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownin round Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 +1 on that so useful and really appreciated 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 +1! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 I just saw a post on FB where some engineering place in welles did coil over sleeves where they where sitting on a circlip of all things. Surely that's not legit? Circlips don't have that much spine do they? And where the groove has been machined, the minor diameter is surely creating a weakness in the strut tube no? Or am I being a sissy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 That^ Youll be surprised how much load they can take when done PROPERLY . You can also be surprised by how much carnage ensues when they are not. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Well, I guess I've learned something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J2Racing Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 I'm putting a 5 speed in my RWD. To fit the box the only thing being changed is the drive shaft. From two piece with CV to one piece . Drive shaft will be built by engineering firm that specializes in drive shafts. floor won't be touched factory mount factory cross member factory bell housing gear box is from same manufacture. Car is factory manual 4speed. Do I need a cert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pbaines Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Do you need one? Yes i'm pretty sure you do as you'd have to put a safety hoop in too. Will anyone notice? Probably not, i'd say you'd get away with not getting one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 IIRC, a driveshaft hoop and cert is required for a modified driveshaft, a cert is also required if you change the brake pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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