cletus Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 SUPER hori. what will you gain aside from ease of height adjustment (slightly easier than normal leaves) and epic axle tramp/potential to snap that last leaf this. single leaf doesnt have enough strength to locate diff proper like no reason why you couldnt do it if you convert to a link style rear suspension however Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 sweet, cheers for discounting it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 my old ute had 2 leaves flattened, adjustables, c notch and 2 inch blocks...to me it seemed super hori.. It was super slammed but it somehow had a cert? so yeah must be possible? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hey Mr Clint, got a couple cert questions; 1. Fitted a set of tein adjustable platform coilovers to the car. Wound them down to as comfortably low as i can go, the springs are still tight and dont unseat at full droop but can be rotated with a bit of effort so theres not a lot of pre-load on them. How tight do they need to be? Should i be looking at keeper springs? 2. Because of the above mod, i had too much camber in the rear to meet the new criteria. So have fitted some whiteline adjustable rear arms. Reputable brand, good quality and appear to be stronger than the original arms which were just C shaped stamped steel. Are these acceptable? 3. Engine swap resulted in more than a 30% power increase, this needs to go on the plate right? 4. Front brake calipers are a direct bolt on but not original fitment to the vehicle so also need to be certed? 5. Trans swap was done using all factory hardware and mounting points with no modifications at all. So doesnt need to be certed? 6. How much would it cost me to get you to meet my cert'ing needs (based on above info) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hey Mr Clint, got a couple cert questions; 1. Fitted a set of tein adjustable platform coilovers to the car. Wound them down to as comfortably low as i can go, the springs are still tight and dont unseat at full droop but can be rotated with a bit of effort so theres not a lot of pre-load on them. How tight do they need to be? Should i be looking at keeper springs? being able to turn them is ok, as long as they cant be moved up and down, if they are spring platform adjustable only, teins usually dont have enough bumpstop clearance in the front if the nut is at the bottom of the thread 2. Because of the above mod, i had too much camber in the rear to meet the new criteria. So have fitted some whiteline adjustable rear arms. Reputable brand, good quality and appear to be stronger than the original arms which were just C shaped stamped steel. Are these acceptable? they look fine to me from here on my sofa 3. Engine swap resulted in more than a 30% power increase, this needs to go on the plate right? yes-is it a different engine or a later/better version of the original? plate will probably say "subaru mod" this will cover the engine mods, the plate does not list each individual engine modification 4. Front brake calipers are a direct bolt on but not original fitment to the vehicle so also need to be certed?yes they will 5. Trans swap was done using all factory hardware and mounting points with no modifications at all. So doesnt need to be certed? plate will say whatever gearbox it has regardless of whether its modified or not so you will be covered there no problems 6. How much would it cost me to get you to meet my cert'ing needs (based on above info) cost would vary depending on the engine but up here it would be $480-$540 ish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Sold. See you in Septemberish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Does anyone know how long the TAC usually takes to get back to ya re Design Approval? Update to this. D.A. arrived in post last weekend (a week ago), I managed to badger Justin at LVVTA into calling me the week before and he called Lance to tell him to continue the process that evening. yay. Cert plate has been ordered, final inspection when it arrives presumably. Then legal beagle. Clint, will the side exhaust be listed on the cert? Was a less than ideal move and would quite like to change it back to a rear exit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 If it has been noise tested you can't change it, otherwise you will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 If it has been noise tested you can't change it, otherwise you will be fine. Hasn't as far as I know, only emissions tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 It will have a sticker on it if it has been... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 exhaust wont be listed on the cert plate, unless theres a structural mod to fit it. probably wont have been certed for the exhaust, as lance doesnt like doing it, he gets me to do a few of his noise test ones, plus you would have been charged more for it ($200-$250) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westy Posted August 11, 2013 Share Posted August 11, 2013 exhaust wont be listed on the cert plate, unless theres a structural mod to fit it. probably wont have been certed for the exhaust, as lance doesnt like doing it, he gets me to do a few of his noise test ones, plus you would have been charged more for it ($200-$250) Yeah, thought it unlikely. It's not that it's rowdy just it has a hideous drone to it and 'cause it's quite short there's not a lot of room for another muffler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Whats the go with a C Notch on a ute Clint. Does it need to be done by a ticketed welder? Anything that needs to be done a certain way to keep a cert man happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banga Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 May have already been covered before but couldn't find the exact answer using a search. More of and interpretation question really, Mk 2 cortina aftermarket lowered springs, shortened inserts/shock, (springs are captive) and 2" blocks in the back- will I be up for a cert? Am I right in reading the below that the front will be fine but the back won't? I seem to remember that back in the day blocks up to 2" were fine but anything over needed a cert. Fitting of or modification to: Springs and shock absorbersLVV certification is not required provided that:* the springs or shock absorbers are direct replacements, and* replacement springs are contained within unmodified OE seats throughout full suspension travel, and* replacement springs are self-retaining in their seats at full extension, without the use of non-standard devices such as wire-ties, straps, or external spring locators, and* replacement springs have not been heated or cut, and* springs and spring seats are not height adjustable (unless OE), and* replacement shock absorbers, including air-adjustable units, fit unmodified OE mountings, and* suspension maintains sufficient travel for safe operation when fully laden, and* suspension components maintain sufficient clearance from unmodified bumpstops when fully laden, and* a minimum of 100 mm ground clearance (unladen and without driver) exists below any part of the vehicle structure, or any steering, braking or suspension component (NOTE 2), and* the normal relationship between front and rear suspension height is not unduly affected.NOTE 2: Does not include such items as exhaust pipes and exterior body panels that do not contribute to the structural strength of the vehicle.Read more: http://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/273/lower-car-before-cert#ixzz2bsl30Kaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 2" blocks are fine, you can go up to 3" if you have a tramp rod fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 yep 2'' blocks fine without a cert, 2-3'' needs cert and must have additional support. usually too much hassle to do that sucessfully, easier to get springs reset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 Whats the go with a C Notch on a ute Clint. Does it need to be done by a ticketed welder? Anything that needs to be done a certain way to keep a cert man happy does not have to be a ticketed welder, different certifiers will have differing opinions on doing a notch the right way so best to chat to the cert man you plan on using. are you just doing a small 'c'notch in the rail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 4-5 inch notch sort of style Side plates and top cap were welded onto original chassis then the old chassis cut out and new cross member added to clear the diff once low is added. Photo of my notch which Im not worried about certing as not going to be road legal but the guy that did I was looking to do a couple for road legal utes and wanted to know if he was on the right track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 i'm untrained and I think fish plates are required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 if you were butt welding a join/notch section, yes it would need fish plates, but the traditional way of doing a step notch like that doesnt need them as it overlaps the rail and acts like a fish plate itself- usual way to do it is weld on the side plates, weld insides to rail as well, cap the top, cut out rail, cap the bottom. pic looks ok, one of the biggest cockups i see with that style of notch is making it too big "cause i might bag it on 24'' rims one day", bumpstop needs to limit travel before anything else hits like diff head, driveshaft, or shocks bottoming out etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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