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Hey guys im moderating the thread for my dad. Here we have a 1964 Ford XP falcon that my dad has had for 20+ years. He has had a fully reconditioned heads and motor blocks and he has had a single carb supercharger. About a year ago we started peicing it together and this is how it went: Disscusion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48719-1964-ford-xp-falcon-noel-supercharged-disscusion/ My Anglia: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48706-1963-ford-anglia-first-car-shannon/ Anglia Disscusion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48716-1963-ford-anglia-first-car-shannon-disscusion/ Brothers Anglia: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42275-jordens-1967-ford-anglia-105e/?hl=jordens Dads Anglia: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45036-noels-1963-ford-anglia/?hl=anglia So this is how it started out as Yellow and just sitting in weeds with flat tires: This is the super charger: And the motor on the stand: First step was to take the old shot motor out: Which looks like this: Next was to put the motor together first to give it the signature Ford Blue paint: And then we put it fully together and it looked like this: Next we started the long process of putting the motor in: And that ended up looking like this: Side veiw, but we wernt happy with how high it was sitting so a future project is to make a spacer to make it as high as the top window line: But we diddnt have time to make one before the formal so we just went with it. After checking everything and fitting a dummy fuel can to feed it fuel we started her up for the first time: https://youtu.be/brKckiFJRjQ Next we had to cut the hole in the bonnet, although we did not want to as they are hard to come by: And finally came the paint: And this is how it turned out, pretty well i think for no body work except a small bit of sanding: But now this is how it sits waiting for us to get her going as she blew a head gasket. The plan is to pull her out this weekend and start getting it ready properly rust and all for the Kaikoura Hop. Here it has the recently purchased shotgun scoop which gives it a mean feel. Will update soon!

once again i have acquired another car that is not an austin... (regret that username) BUT never the less this is my new project was a freebee off my mate who is moving to the uk and for some odd reason he though i would like it.... and i think he thinks im the only person who will put work into it. so first things first is WOF and i need >window wipers >lift side steering arm boot ( im think its that rubber thing) >reverse lights (and according to VTNZ its too low but who said i had to go there for wof...) hopefully can get around to it all this weekend, the only thing i dont want to do it the reverse lights because i am terrible with trouble shooting electrical problems so if anyone has any tips for that it would be much appreciated. Plans for this beast includes fixing the front bumper, paint both bumpers gun metal grey, then primer the body because surprisingly its pretty straight and virtually rust free. not planning on spending heaps of money on this so thats why its only getting primer. and also sounds, needs sounds. there are some slight mechanical issues that need sorting too, there is a wicked tap in the engine (well i think its the engine, dad thinks its something else) and it leaks autotrans fluid and diff fluid so ill have to take a look at that too.. anyway thanks guys, update probably after the weekend if i get wof!! >discussion<

Finally found some time and motivation to work on this. I transported my good cab out to my mates shed so we can start stripping it to bare metal. But first we had to strip all the remaining bits and pieces out of it and remove the LHD dash so I can fit the RHD dash from my rusty red cab.

Photo shoot. Now to find another pair of 225/40s for the front.

Righto, 1st time poster, long time browser. Gotta say i love reading all the projects and shit on here, gives me loads of inspiration and enthusiasm for cracking on with me own loss of coin and sanity. I've always liked my small British Fords, but I've always had a soft spot for the old Anglebox, I've had a few over the years in various states, my first car was a lovely crimson one with a 1600 xflow, 13x7 hotwires, custom suspension..... And NO floor lol. About a year ago I decided I needed a toy to play with and that toy needed to be another Anglia. I squized around on the usual sites and found any that were avaliable were pretty pricey. Step in MADBUZ who hooked me up with a chap in Wellys who had an oldie with a 1500 pre xflow, the rest standard but with dead plates and plenty of rust, but for 2hundie who can complain. When i got to yard collect and had a quick look over it was in better condition structurally than I thought which was a bonus. Got home and unloaded into garage then proceeded to stare at my new procurement for the rest of the arvo. I decided i wanted to either A: make a road going track day car, or B: make a dedicated race toy for trackdays and autox/gymkhana. I wanted V6 front engine rwd setup... initially lol. I had at that time wrecked our Mitsi Diamante family wagon coz I couldn't sell it, so I had a good 6G72 engine sitting on floor of garage, queue research time... Rwd 6G72 gona be a pain in the arse, involves custom bellhousings etc. Then my brain decided it wanted to REALLY throw a spanner in the works and completely change the whole project. The car had at this stage been stripped down to the shell and found floors were mint, minor structural rust but doors, boot and bonnet stuffed. My brain got out the sawsall and cut out the rear floor in readiness for rear mounting the 6G72 and fwd tiptronic box... WTF. Dedicated racer, aint never gettin this nutbox on the road lol. I thought yeah why not the mitsi box, will be easier to hook up in rear engined format, as no linkages involved, just switches etc and fwd/rwd cable, with mk2 Escort front end and steering.... but coz im an indecisive knob i shelved that idea too. Now im going EJ20/5T as rear mounting that has been done plenty of times before, its relatively easy to turn 4wd box into a transaxle, nice short engine, plenty of power, loads of aftermarket support and cheap. Right, I've got about as far as I can go without a donor Subie so will start saving and post pics of what I've got etc, and will keep you posted of my sanity going out the window..... cant wait to take it for a spin woho.

I take it op is taking about a k50 gearbox. Have always ran castrol vmx in my rwd toyota boxes. No drama's guessing everyone likes the redline stuff because it says "shockproof" on it and has some die in it, so it looks fancy when you pull apart the gearbox ?

So people talked me into this, and i need the advice (clueless). Noticed the following for really old crap is small on here (sure there are forums for this but they don't need to obey NZ road regulations and those that do are esoteric to me) but there is some people into it so... So after buying piles and piles of rusty parts at swapmeets i decided i want to build a car. End goal would be something like this pictured. But i lack enough V8 parts yet and for some reason the NZTA type people make you register them as a 'replica' with stoplights, window wipers and seatbelts, stuff i don't want or I'd go buy a modern one. So how do i get around that? Register it as an original, but then i have to use original parts when getting VIN right? OK, first incarnation can look different and i change it later right? Changing it being swap body onto V8 chassis and return existing chassis to stock and resell it. (not sure if this reasoning is correct...) There, that one looks cool. Would be keen to replicate that look. Just so happens the chassis parts were cheap or free at a swapmeet last weekend because nobody wants them, body parts are expensive though. So how to lower? Because 2 feet of ground clearance apparently isn't cool these days. Think these are called Z shackles. Is this legal to do in NZ? If so i might do that. Problem is i would have to move the spring from rear crossmember to another new one installed a few inches further ahead. And rules around that? Is bolt in or riveted acceptable? Alternative is to move spring forward and put crushtube? (anticrush tube?) in radius rod and the bolt spring hanger in it. Small problem is the chassis i have has steel plates riveted inside the rails along its length, fishplating, not surprised considering how much they flexed back in the day. Is this going to need a cert or can a friendly inspector ignore/sign off as satisfactory? Then there is the front radius rods. If i lower it using the Z shackle style depicted above i would need to extend them. Then there is this bracket which does not need Z shackles or extended radius rods. This would work but i don't know if it is legal to fab one from steel (Xray testing?) or have a pair cast somewhere, although cast would be kinda awesome, what is the regulations around cast one-off parts? Or replace entirely with later model ones, with welded on brackets, i can't see this being a piece of cake to cert' though. Also wanting to move the body back about 2.25 inches to gain clearance for using studs to hold the head onto the block (and maybe aftermarket cylinder head). If it is only lowered and body moved a little i won't have to pass the 5 cycle brake test (or whatever it is) thing or anything will i? Pretty sure the 2 wheel brakes would never ever pass that. So what parts do i have so far? A rusty body with missing subrails. Is it legal to repair this with box tubing with the bottom cut out of the tubing? Or even tubing left intact? This is the only place the body brackets would be a problem if i moved the body backwards 2 inches. Fortunately this area needs repair and the bracket is riveted to the subframe and the rivets look crap, there is only one bracket, the other is missing so i can rivet it on further forwards when i install one. Would this need a repair cert' or would an inspector kindly overlook that it was moved? Don't know the regulations about this myself... This picture shows the frame rails with the bracket to the firewall. Is it acceptable to redrill the holes in the frame back 2 inches or should i use spacer blocks? New holes would be better. Also visible is the rivets for the fish plating. This is a rusty wishbone in case i had to split it, didn't want to split the one that came with the chassis, its like, 90 years old and still in good shape, this one is rusty, might have too deep pitting for a cert'? Then there is the rear ones, options include repairing or replacing with a new tube with a kink in it (for the correct geometry) and a crush tube for the spring mount. Can only guess there was water in the tube and it froze and burst? So yeah, am i on completely the wrong track here? Lost my mind? (think that happened last year) or is this a good idea? Better make a discussion thread as per forum board rules so you can tell me which is best for VIN/cert'/tell me i lost my mind and to give up already. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/47381-rustiz-1920-26-ford-t-bucket-of-rust-discussion/

So after 6 years of not owning an oldschool car I thought it was time I did something about that. I decided at the end of last year I'd try to buy a GT6. However, I wanted a Mk2 as I preferred the more 60s styling, the problem being these are stupidly rare. But luckily I managed to be the first to offer money for the one that briefly appeared on Trademe last weekend. I picked it up from Whakatane/Rotorua/Tauranga (its a long story) yesterday. Drive back went well other than the speedo doesn't work and the headlights are dangerously bad for the last two hours in the dark, Its a 1970 and has had quite a lot of money spent on mechanicals recently. It needs the interior redone and theres a small amount of rust in both rear guards and the drivers door. Given I bought it site unseen I was pleasantly surprised. Its reasonably standard though has a few upgrades like brand new Mikuni flatsides, electronic ignition, hotter cam, GAZ adjustable shocks etc. Goes well though it is rather loud at 100ks despite having overdrive. [/url] ] If you look closely in this photo you'll see a piece of wood holding the tailgate up. Its supposed to be held up by a torsion bar by the hinges but like most this isnt working anymore and they're no longer available. So it has gas struts except these are just as broken. It has the factory option rear seat. These are like hens teeth apparently and having now experienced it I can see why noone chose them. Single worst rear seat ever, theres no leg room, no shoulder room let alone head room and you have to climb over the back of the front seats as they dont go forward enough to go around them. Here is the rust in the rear guards. As you can see drivers side is the worst of the two though the passengers is worse than this photo makes it look. Plans are to do not much to it in the short term as my mortgage is looking a bit sick but medium term plans are to continue tidying it up.

Just checked back through my thread and realized I've done a bit more than what my updates show. Will have to get some more pics to show some of the work I did on it last year. I scored a complete, rust free, bare chassis off a friend and grafted in a Jaguar XJS front crossmember. I'm nowhere near finished, at the moment it's just tacked in place. Planning to run bags all round so I've set it up so when they're fully deflated the running boards are about an inch off the ground.

Payded.

First breakdown last night. Snapped the clutch cable and with a few too many hills and stop lights between me and home I decided a free tow was the better option. Probably best considering the starter has been a bit iffy lately and the alternator exciter wire still isnt connected so needs to be revved to 5krpm before it will start charging... Had been running sweet till then. Been to a few car meets/shows and still using as a daily. Will be back on the road shortly! Beached!

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48536-2zz-ge-good-motors-or-a-flop/ ? Maybe the guy ripped you off?

you allready know this but im giving it a vote anyway cut drill/tap the end of the shaft, drill/tap a spigot, stud+epoxy them together, file flats to accept tps? (yeah you gotta drill a hole in the carb) those carbs only take a moment to pull the end one off.

What do you want your name to be man?

What ecu are you running? I'm 95% sure that on 100% of aftermarket ecu's you hook up your tps Then set it at zero then mash the pedal and set it at 100%. Then it does not matter what ratio of mover it has relative to the actual butterfly opening. It is good to have as much sensor movement as you can for better resolution.

Put it on the throttle pedal itself

All the rust and corrosion cleaned off, a bit of fixing to do on the water/coolant pipes

Those Toyota ones would fit in your pocket.

Manifold all cleaned up

Fished the air box today.made to fit an evo k&n panel filter

Bit of off-seal action this weekend. This is the normal ride height.

those arms are choice ^ I built this jig to prove no bind with rose joints. now to put the leafs back in my hilux

Diff case almost done. just need to sort out a bump stop setup and make some caliper brackets. Then i cut a hole in it Welded up hole.. Have gained just over 20mm ground clearance. Doesn't sound alot. but its pretty much the same difference as going from 33" tyres to 35's. should have done the same to front when i had it apart.but didnt want to cut that sweet chrome. . Also, Someone in another thread awhile back, was saying how triangulated 4 links bind up with rose joints. Yeh nar nar nar.. only thing its binding up on is the ground.

Had another work session on the little Mazda not a lot of progress visually but we pulled the front subframe and extracted the sump to cure an oil leak from the mig weld I did on the turbo oil drain fitting. Also plumbed up the coolant lines for the heater and turbo, old oil was looking a tad black, perhaps from lack of water cooling on the turbo, or maybe aliens.. who knows, Made a nicer set of covers for the gearbox adaptor plate too which took some time having to drill and tap holes in-situ. Errr.. photo of hover engine.. thats the end of the run-in oil, filter is changed and its ready to pour in the 300V now that the sump goo has set. Really need to crack on with the front knuckles next...

Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr

i feel like we should make shit like this, relabled jiff rebuild in a bottle, have all sorts of credible shills like sheepys and clint endorse it, and use the funds to buy a forum racetrack in waiouru.

nar, just came up in pinterest edit:, just googled the picture, and came up with this http://silodrome.com/1932-talbot-boat-tail/

more removal of the things. will get a glass guy to remove the windows i think. probably cheaper to do that than break them. no big rusty surprises hiding which was good i knew this bit was lurking not much more to come out of it. will probably make some sort of frame so i can flip it on its side or upside down to do the underneath stuff. also have to decide how to tackle the body- i might get it properly blasted and primed. im going to fix the rusty bits myself but i will give it to a panelsmasher to get it straight and paint it. also been looking at other mods im going to do engine wise- current plan includes a new exhaust, might use some of these or similar, they are for a dodge truck. turned around and the collector shortened and re angled, should be able to make the pre turbo part of the exhaust shorter, and flow & sound better

Cert plate acquired. Beach Hop attended. I do need to make some changes to the rear shocks or something as it is rather bouncy in the rear when driving. I've been advised that '4WD' shocks would be better. Will do some research after the school holidays.

This^^^ The Triumph Herald based kit car thing that we're currently working on (zebra dude's) could be put onto the road with some major monumental modifications and a whole lot of headaches. So instead we've accepted that it will be a runabout for at car shows/on the property etc so we will never even bother to make it road legal in the slightest. You need to make a decision regarding the intended use of your vehicle, stick with it then continue down that path. I vote for doing whatever the hell you want and not bothering about the legalities. Hoon around at Jalopy dust ups, Kumeu, car shows etc and enjoy it every time.

This thing is sexy. Continue.

Got a few more photos today... As you can see, she's in a pretty sad state. So this is my new cab... Only rust is a few little pin holes in the floor. The vents even open and close still!