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It kind of sounds a bit like the ecu flash and evoscan programs I used to deal with when tuning my old Evo. Quite powerful and you can get things to run really mint if you invest the time, but not user friendly, I found the trickiest thing is not being able to tune live, and you had to do a run, review the data log, make make changes to the rom, upload, then confirm things actually changed. Even a timing tweak to stabilize the idle is a 5 second job with instant results with a link or similar is going to take a bit of time.. I went through is same pain again with the eprom in my honda pos racecar, sure an aftermarket ecu would have been easier but way cheaper to stick with oem.. but not so cool when you want to adjust a Rev limit, or change the idle target by a few hundred rpm. The good thing with mass airflow is its pretty accurate, (moreso than map) but I'm not sure how exactly yours will behave being post turbo.. my experience is limited to upstream of the compressor.

Mike Wilson (aka delcowizzid on pcm hacking) down welly would be the man to talk to , hes done alot of boosted delco pcms

Man I hate people that gatekeep shit like that. Like, if your entire career revolves around hiding some basic knowledge that is so simple that anyone can do it. Then you're shit. I figure there's no reason not to share knowledge - If someone copies you, you then the best they can ever be is as good as you were yesterday. Anyway, I wouldnt hold your breath for a ride along tuning the Dave6 as it seems like I keep getting roadblocks at the moment. However yeah I'm happy to catch up sometime and go through the software together and try make some sense of it. Some of the tables probably arent very intuitive initially, if they have an axis that spans in grams per second or whatever. But it makes sense once you get your head around it. Does the car run a MAF or is it MAP based? Flick me a PM if you want to get sharned into oblivion about ECUs some time.

Finally was able to sort the annoying vibration at 80-90kph. Whilst it isn't Jaguar smooth, it doesn't feel like it's driving with square wheels. Turned out to be the centre hanger bearing. The old one looked fine with a visual inspection but had a bit of flex. The new one is much more stiff (fnar fnar). Wasn't too hard to swap over. Just one of those annoying ones where you have to keep undoing more things than you expected to get to where you're going. Anyway all done and now means I can drive it much further without worrying about something breaking as much. To celebrate not jiggling in the car I dragged the drum roller to do some different type of jiggling the bush block to pack down some AP40. It has no torque at all but it gets the job done in 4th with no dramas. I asked for a few loads to get dropped off to the trucking company and they managed to drop off over 10. That will be fun come invoicing time. Anyway I made use of the Mitsi widened steelies and gave it a first pass with that with a load of gravel in the tray to give it some weight.

Dad finished up radiator shell number 2. Looking great.

@Roman Thanks, The GM stuff is ridiculously well supported the interfaces you can use are probably similar to older Haltech or other brands look function wise. If you need someone to hold the laptop for you road tuning your v6 it would probably help me immensely to just look over your shoulder. Reason I've stayed with the stock PCM is because it's reasonably capable and adjustable it runs the trans and has a few spare I/O's . flash tuning can be a fair bit slower but the pain is all in the setup phase once it's done should have a car that behaves like stock, It's fairly well trodden path but people get precious about how they tune these things and share bugger all apart from recommending a tuning dude they know. It's a $600 car with a $3000 turbo set up im not that fussed about blowing it up as long as nothing goes through the turbo and I learn something...... be nice for it not to blow up though.

@shrike I've copied over timing and fuel tables from a supercharged Map so its able to read positive pressure and put in the specs for injectors and other settings into the ADX. Hence it runs OK it doesn't knock misfire or anything. I've only driven it fairly gently so far to get it up to temp and into closed loop to check for oil leaks etc....... and maybe to make a few dose sounds for motivational purposes only.

High Performance Academy is the way to go! So much good stuff and some great courses. Yeah factory ECUs can be tricky to tune compared to aftermarket stuff, depending on what information it actually gives you. I dont think myself or KPR actually have any useful experience tuning factory ECUs. Ultimately it's all just about getting the basics right. Get the fuel right, get the ignition right, then you're golden. But if there's limited datalogging or visibility of how/why the factory ECU does things then it can be tricky to know how to head in the right direction. Good luck!

Im sure @Roman & @kpr plus a host of other people on here will be able to give some pointers, sorry guys for volunteering your help Maybe throw up some datalogs/maps/graphs ? You already know this and its teaching you to suck eggs, but I'd say once you sort your ICAV/Vac leak & know your at a good base things should be easier from there, is it worth doing a smoke test? Think we talked about this previously but your still using the factory basemap (tweaked for different injectors and airflow adjustments) off boost right? and without the turbo hooked up it was running fine right? Can always pull the spring out the wastegate to remove boost from the equation to get things dialed in and then go from there Loving the progress and its very exciting

Paid. Now to hope the trips off line up.

Yep for sure. It's getting close! All the little bits left to assemble, modify or build now are fun easy ones too.

Turned to High Performance Academy for some real information on tuning. The Facebook group that has been useful up till this point has now turned to shit posts about my spark plug leads not been correct or how my wastegate won't work etc. Thanks oldschool.co.nz for hosting this project without the haters. Anyway Time for some data acquisition and fixing annoying things like rattles.

Anticipation for first start in the car and first drive are building! The excitement !

I changed the ignition coil to see if it had any effect. The one which was in the car looks to have been made in 1995. If it is a Lucas DLB198 coil as suggested by its mounting bracket, its secondary resistance was measuring below spec. The new coil is branded "Flame-Thrower", which sold me on it immediately. This should be its theme song. Anyway, it didn't make any difference. The car's intermittent stumbling idle remains, and its misfiring near peak power seems to be getting worse. I read a bunch of forum threads of other people who have tried to crack the bad idle problem with their AJ6 or AJ16 (the revised version of the same motor), and most people seem to test and change a bunch of stuff then give up (the threads just stop). I did find one thread where someone actually fixed it, and the problem in that case turned out to be several exhaust valves which weren't sealing well. The guy took the head off and got the valves reseated or reground or whatever, and then the car idled properly. So.... I wonder if I could have some partially burnt valves or weak valve springs or worn cam lobes or something. I did another compression test today and got similar slightly-too-high readings (190, 183, 190, 180, 188 and 190psi) to the last compression test. Might be my gauge. The spark plugs looked fine. I gapped them down to factory spec, no improvement. I have recently acquired a detailed factory document all about the engine management on the later 4.0 AJ6 which gained oxygen sensors (so many variants of this motor, grrr). The guide has taught me that my fuel tank vacuum pressure relief valve has no vacuum line connected to it: I don't know why there would be a valve if there's no vacuum line for it. Maybe it's for other markets / I hope the vacuum line isn't sitting somewhere disconnected and leaking air. This new guide has given me a thousand things to check. For example, the ECU controls ignition timing and fuel mixture based on airflow and crank position, with a compensation factor for throttle position and coolant temp and air temp, and now I have a bunch of expected voltages and resistances and oscilloscope waveforms for all of this. I just need the motivation to spend weekends chasing my tail.

A narrower tyre will make it tip into a corner quicker. Wether it's enough to be noticeable is probably not. New tyres a gr9 . Even the cheap battleaxes I put on my fj1200 were pretty lush once the shine was off them.

New S23 on its bum @36000km It amazes me how much of a difference new tyres make to a bike, doing the front one last year made it handle much nicer, now doing the rear has improved it a lot again. This tyre is the same size but appears slightly narrower which may influence it slightly? I dunno. Last time I rode it I had a couple of "wtf are you doing, have you forgotten how to go around a corner, you cabbage?" whereas this time I did not accuse myself of being any sort of vegetable

Looks like I may have found a home for it in a fellow OS garage, so hopefully the thread will continue! Unfortunately a basic tidy up of rust isn't really possible, intention was never a full Resto but there's a fair swag of metal work to get through, which I may still be involved with... Will keep you posted

I hope you keep it, even just do a basic tidy up on the rust etc, have it running and driving. But understandable, house is probably more important.

I found a 185 at zebra so I bought a few bits and bobs. I bought another drivers seat for 40 bux and used some of the fabric to re-cover the drivers side arm rest thing. It came out pretty good, time will tell how much comes unglued and I have to fix it up but it's pretty ace at the moment. The other thing I did with the spare seat was cut the mounts off and put some spacers in to raise the seat up a bit to make the driving position better for normal height people like me. No pix of that because I didn't take any.

I am still torn between original colourscheme or 'blue psycho' bodywork with black vinyl roof and gt style blackouts along the bottom.

Re colour, I like that bronze. My dad an XA in Cosmic Blue, so I am partial to that too.

Finished pulling out the rest of the pillar trims and seatbelts. Fired up the cup brush and stripped back the last of the insulation under the dash and buffed back the passengers floor..... Before After Still have more to go but the brush is clogged with gum so can use that as todays excuse to stop.

@The Bronze gn250 charging system

Have driven this around for about an hour few rattles from exhaust needs lots more mounts who knew 3.5" exhausts were really heavy, go figure.... easy fix though it's quiet enough wastegate has a bark to it. Appears PCV system will need an upgrade its struggling a bit few more oil leaks than normal. Catch can incoming. 2000rpm idle is a bit annoying either I have a vacuum leak or a dead IAC valve, trying a new IAC as current isn't right it's gm but never has been 100% so bought the expensive commodore specific one. If it's a vacuum leak that might be trickier. All in all no check engine lights gets up and boogies seems pretty happy has lightest wastegate spring I have so should be about 4psi. Time to figure out wideband and do road tuning once the niggles are done. Think the stock bumper is perfect BTW.