Adoom

Adoom's 1976 Triumph 2500 TC

55 posts in this topic

You need to do it like this:

1. Open Bleeder

2. Assist pushes pedal down and holds down

3. Close Bleeder

4. Assistant lets pedal up

Repeat until no air comes out, remembering to check reservoir.
Unless you are using a special hose with a valve of some sort on the end to stop the air/fluid from sucking back up

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Also, if it's RHD and the booster and master is on the right,  you should be starting at the Left Rear. 

 

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Also also, you don't need a valve,  a bottle or container with the hose reaching to the base of the bottle with a level of fluid higher than the end of the hose and you'll be fine.  

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If you do it anything like me, you might as well just let it run out on the floor as that's where most of it will end up when the house flips out of the container or I knock it over.

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That's a pretty intense earthquake that flips the house while you're doing the brakes. 

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13 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Also also, you don't need a valve,  a bottle or container with the hose reaching to the base of the bottle with a level of fluid higher than the end of the hose and you'll be fine.  

This. I did the brakes on a club sport today with some 5mm hose from Bunnings and a Powerade bottle with a hole drilled in the lid, hose down to the bottom of the bottle and a bit of fluid and your set. It'll pull back a little bit for the first couple pumps but  once up to the bottle it's sweet, and you use clear hose your can tell when all the bubbles are gone/ fluid is clean. 

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Yeah what nominal said. Open nipple, get assistant to push pedal down and hold it down, do up nipple and then assistant lets pedal up.

Repeat.

If the system is completely new then bench bleed the master first. If its in the car then crack open both outlets at the master, push pedal down, hold, tighten outlets, release pedal. Repeat until its just fluid. Usually only a few strokes. Otherwise it can be an arse trying to get the master to push anything.

When bleeding the wheel cylinders/calipers watch the clear tube you've put on on the nipple. It takes a second or two for the master cylinder to 'refill' after a push. If you're hasty and crack open the nipple straight after the assistant has let the pedal up you'll see the fluid getting drawn back a little. So just wait a couple of seconds before opening the nipple.

Yeah as others said- start at the furtherest away wheel and work in. (having bled the master first if needed)

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Right rear is furtherest away from the master in this case. The line to the back goes down the left of the car to a 3 way union, then over to the right wheel.

I have a one man bleed kit, I think there is a one way valve in it. The bottle is laughably small, a few pumps will overflow it, so I use an old brake fluid bottle. 

But I will try the open nipple, pedal down, close nipple, pedal up, repeat method.

I would normally use the method kyteler and hemi use.

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Like you I usually use the Kyteler/Hemi method which works 95% of the time - when something being a bit of a cunt (usually the jag where the rear pipes has lots of ups and down or if a systems been completely drained) and still has a small amount of air somewhere in the system bleed as per above and then go around each corner again this time get someone to pump the brake pedal a few times and then hold it down while you crack open your bleed nipple and then tighten it before they release then pedal you should only need to do this once or twice at each corner. This pressurizes  the brake fluid and makes the air into larger bubbles rather than lots of tiny ones which sometimes can't be seen you should get a few bubbles at the affected corners (no way of knowing which ones they are so do them all).

 

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Bled the brakes again tonight using the Kyteler Hemi method and followed the books advice and did slow pedal strokes.

Pedal seems better.

I will drive it over the Rimutakas tomorrow to put it in the new shed. Taking a fire extinguisher..... not positive the fuel leak is completely fixed. Looking forward to having it on the flat and dry.

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Well I made it over the hill no problem. The horn has stopped working... I'm sure it worked when I got it, made a kind of paaarp noise. Another thing to add to the "And this is broke" list.

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Free board at the pedal pushrod should be about 1-2mm. Same for the booster pushrod. 

Leave a bar wedged on the pedal pushing it hard down over night

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The fan knob has a wee pin you need to depress, then pull it off the shaft. (lol, knob and shaft).

Then undo the bezel nut and it moves out the back.

Take ciggy lighter out of socket, then undo the back of the ciggy lighter barrel and remove.

Undo choke cable at the carbs, and proceed to pull the entire cable out from the inner from inside the cabin.

Undo bezel nut on the choke slider thing and remove from the back.

You may not have luck gluing, I've tried it in the past and it doesn't stay put, ever.  

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