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Roman's 4GR V6 Carina discussion thread


Roman

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Yeah, I'd rather not though - I always hate threading into aluminium, so anything that gets done up / undone a lot, I usually wind studs in.

On my previous motor I ended up stripping a few threads, on the intake and exhaust bolts. Then its a nightmare. 

I could probably cut them shorter though, they're quite long. 

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1 hour ago, CUL8R said:

Why not run a die nut up the long ones, and roll pin - I assume you'll balance the flywheel and pressure plate anyway?

 

They are a roll formed/forged thread rather than cut. Cut threads aren't as strong. I think you'd be fine finding yourself a nice high tensile bolt of suitable spec. 

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if you get very stuck, i may be able to help with destructive testing one of the flywheel bolts to find out what its characteristics are. 
we certainly have all the gear to do this at work, but i would need to ask one of the guys who has the skills to help with the testing (and what exactly to test) but its all proper calibrated test equipment so might help in the unlikley outcome you cant verify what they are made of an easier way. 

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I'd rather not have to redrill the crank, because part of my development budget is blowing up an engine or three along the way...
So ideally keep the motor stuff as standard as possible. 
Thinking about it some more, I'm thinking maybe I just need to give up on using the 3S flywheel.
Adapting a spigot bearing into an aftermarket FWD V6 flywheel is looking like an easier options than all of the modifications requried to make this flywheel work.
Also because the aftermarket flywheels are a lot flatter (as not trying to emulate the dual mass setup) they should end up a bit lighter too.

 

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Does that then mean there is no faff about with starter engagement?

Because non OEM starter placement can be a bit of a pain in the arse to get right as far as teeth engagement and throw out etc.. and if you can eliminate that hurdle it'd be worthwhile.

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Yeah non standard starter isnt an option. As this starter motor is quite short. I tried 1NZ and 3S starters, but neither would fit because they hit the engine mount.
I found a GR motor starter at pickapart.
You're right, I guess that's another tick in the box for a different flywheel.

So will add that to the list of things to buy after my house sells.
If I get to the point where I can get the motor started up, I guess I can always just put the auto flex plate thing on it for the meantime. Whether or not I've solved gearbox issues.

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2 hours ago, Roman said:


If I get to the point where I can get the motor started up, I guess I can always just put the auto flex plate thing on it for the meantime. Whether or not I've solved gearbox issues.

Auto flex plate and a sexy little Tilton multiplate clutch

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9 minutes ago, HumberSS said:

Can the stock v6 flywheel be strategically machined to mount the clutch and still work with stock bolts? I'm guessing not.

Sadly I dont have a V6 flywheel, this was an auto engine.
6 flywheels / manual setups are exceedingly rare, to the point that aftermarket options are the only realistic option.
But that's fine, because the OEM flywheel must be crap. 
 cant imagine how awful it must be with a 40mm thick flywheel and how heavy it must be! 

I guess I've been trying to penny pinch a bit, but this is just an area that needs some $$ spent. 
But then it's also worth having a light setup to get that really snappy rev when the clutch is in.

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Oh wow, thanks! Hadnt considered that anything like that would have a suitable flywheel. 
I bet it weighs about 85 million kg though haha.

However, even so you've lead me down a rabbit hole that might be the right length bolts.

Thanks for the help! I'll order some of these and see how they go.

18.jpg.6e1767eacfc5143643f3e20edb671a93.jpg

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