Roman Posted May 3, 2024 Author Posted May 3, 2024 Sounds like I dont need to try at all, just keep making them no matter what EDIT: Looks like there is a 2009 onwards model Mark X at PIckapart Mangere. $25 each for pulleys so might go grab all four if they arent looking too manky. Otherwise it's around $300-400 each for brand new items. 2 Quote
thegreatestben Posted May 4, 2024 Posted May 4, 2024 When I sold the 2gr out of my blade the buyer was replacing a motor that had snapped a cam and ate itself. I wonder if this happened to him too? 1 Quote
sleeektoy Posted May 4, 2024 Posted May 4, 2024 Watch for cracked valve guides too after a valve bending.. might be ok but possibly worth a once-over too. 1 1 Quote
Hyperblade Posted May 7, 2024 Posted May 7, 2024 What a tease, i'm reading "3d printed inconel" and think this is really starting to get interesting, then you understandably cheap out by talking about stainless, lol. I'm surprised at the prices they are quoting, I thought it was just wishful thinking on my part, but 3d printing metal has to be seriously considered as an option when making a complex part now (assuming they produce a quality piece). 1 1 Quote
Mop Head Posted May 7, 2024 Posted May 7, 2024 This dude gets 3D printed intake manifold made for his Sachs builds and it's quite cool. https://hustlerminibikes.nz/collections/specialised-parts/products/sachs-km48-alloy-intake-manifold 2 Quote
Roman Posted May 7, 2024 Author Posted May 7, 2024 @Hyperblade yeah inconel was more like $1200 each and then well and truly out of my depth to try weld it. But I doubt i could even make a stainless collector like that for that price. Quote
Roman Posted May 7, 2024 Author Posted May 7, 2024 4 minutes ago, Mop Head said: This dude gets 3D printed intake manifold made for his Sachs builds and it's quite cool. https://hustlerminibikes.nz/collections/specialised-parts/products/sachs-km48-alloy-intake-manifold Wow that came out great! Quote
Hyperblade Posted May 7, 2024 Posted May 7, 2024 27 minutes ago, Roman said: @Hyperblade yeah inconel was more like $1200 each and then well and truly out of my depth to try weld it. But I doubt i could even make a stainless collector like that for that price. Especially when you add up all the time spent designing some of this stuff, then tweaking to actually be manufacturable. You end up skipping a lot of steps and saving time. We live in amazing times. It certainly makes me think twice about 3d printing my intake manifold in nylon, when i can just do it straight to aluminum. 3 Quote
HumberSS Posted May 9, 2024 Posted May 9, 2024 In my experience the 3d printed stainless doesn't weld that nicely. I've had a fair few bits out of Shapeways over the years but there is better pricing around these days out of the China. 3 Quote
Roman Posted May 9, 2024 Author Posted May 9, 2024 Okay thanks for feedback @HumberSS To be fair I dont weld very nicely either. Is it a case of, it doesnt weld nicely so it's brittle or weak or something... Or it just looks like crap? As it's easy enough to add some mechanical strength to it by having the pipes slot in rather than relying on strength of a butt weld. If I can weld it together enough to not leak, then it's fine if it looks a bit so-so. 1 Quote
Hurmeez Posted May 9, 2024 Posted May 9, 2024 It may depend on the specific alloy used. I can't say for sure what we use at work but we do heaps of welding of printed parts with no trouble. The main thing I'd say is it seems to be less ductile and more prone to stress riser cracking than billet parts. If you account for that in your design though you can avoid it pretty easily. For an exhaust collector (at the risk of stating the obvious) you'd want to avoid a sharp point in the octopuses gooch where all the tubes come together. Either weld in a brace or put a substantial fillet radius in there. We make lots of something akin to a collector and ours has a brace welded in ~100mm from the gooch. I'd also make the actual weld locations oversized in the printed blank and machine them to final size/squareness with your dad's cnc if you can. Makes for a much nicer weld. 2 3 Quote
Rhyscar Posted May 10, 2024 Posted May 10, 2024 Im super keen to see 3D printed collectors. Mine have taken soooo much effort it makes me never want to make another set of headers! case and point, here’s a seemingly straightforward thing to do when 3D modelling stuff - transfer from 2” slip joint to 2.25 through a 90deg bend… let me tell ya, this was bloody difficult!! Took 20mm of circumference out of the small end by slicing a triangle 36mm long to achieved my goal of 10deg divergence. In the end, leaving it overnight to hold in a position was the best way to release all the tensions on a bend like this, along with heat then hammer and repeat. Anyway that was 4hrs of my life I won’t get back, so 3D printing sounds like a great alternative! 5 1 Quote
Popular Post Maru-So Posted May 10, 2024 Popular Post Posted May 10, 2024 I was shocked at how cost-effective the 316 metal 3d printing is. I had PCBway print this collector. 13 Quote
yoeddynz Posted May 11, 2024 Posted May 11, 2024 What size clutch master cylinder bore are you using with your concentric slave? It looks like I much get away with my stock 5/8 imp item according to this.. https://www.rwdmotorsport.com/product/slave-cylinder-for-duratec-engine-to-ford-gearbox-hydraulic-clutch/ Although it depends on my pedal ratio too. Quote
Roman Posted May 12, 2024 Author Posted May 12, 2024 @yoeddynz I'm not too sure, but I think I'm overextending it a little with whatever length/ratio I've got. Once the motor was running good I was planning to jack up the rear wheels and test the engagement point to put a stopper under the pedal. But... ya know 1 Quote
yoeddynz Posted May 12, 2024 Posted May 12, 2024 That's pretty much what I'll do I think. Just try the one I've got and go from there. 1 Quote
440bbm Posted May 14, 2024 Posted May 14, 2024 Havent read the underlying problem but you mention light is an issue in your garage thats too small? i have a bunch of lights you're more than welcome to have for free. you will be able to light it up so much there will be no shadows and you can see better than daytime. 7 Quote
Roman Posted May 14, 2024 Author Posted May 14, 2024 Hey thanks @440bbm that could be helpful. My main problem though is just a lack of space, my car fills up the vast majority of my small single garage. So I need to push the car outside to do most tasks on it or have any space to use the garage as a work area. Then the outside bit is mostly gravel and grass. Since my motor is fully apart at the moment, I dont want it too exposed to the elements. Bit of a catch 22. Once I've put this all back together I wont mind so much pushing the car back outside for a few days. I've got a new garage in the works, but just waiting on some ground works and council stuff. So hopefully not too long until I've got a bit more room for activities. But realistically a few months off. I want to have my car going for summer stuff so not going to let that hold me up (famous last words) 3 Quote
440bbm Posted May 14, 2024 Posted May 14, 2024 Gotcha. sounds frustrating but hopefully worth it shortly for the larger shed incoming! Know the feeling well. shoot me a message if u want these or some of the lights, I do need to out of my way and just gunna dump them so need to do something kinda soon if you want them becasue i need to bring the rest of my shit up out of storage. 1 Quote
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