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KwS Marina Coupe


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My first Marina rusted out the bottom of the spare wheel well, might pay to check the drain hose that goes through it is still connected.

I haven't seen a "Hinged Kerb Guard" with the flat flap extension, maybe they added that later. Mine only had the oval part.

This is the correct top radiator hose on eBay Australia, and the correct bottom radiator hose .

The prop centre bearing is supposed to be the same as the Triumph Dolomite, available from Rimmer Bros or off eBay UK.

The Marina club do some replacement panels (reproduced from original panels), but it doesn't look like you've got any repairs that you can't handle yourself :thumbright:

https://www.morrismarina.org.uk/marina-a-ital-remanufactured-panels/

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15 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

might be worth checking your valve clearances if it is that quiet, surely an old british engine should have a little bit of a tap? I wouldn't be surprised if it all tightened up a little bit over the years of sitting

Overhead cam with buckets and shims, cant see any reason it should be tapping. 

Also no skids until i free up the clutch and replace the center bearing.

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Gotta love old cars with simple electrical systems. The issue with the interior light may well be related to the wee push switches in the door shut area. Does it work on door with one/some (edit, forgot it was a coupe) door open? You will be reinstalling the trailer plug in a more sensible manner?

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3 hours ago, locost_bryan said:

Dual filament bulb holders in the rear indicators because 70s Aussie cars used them for reversing lights. Select reverse and both rear amber lights illuminate. Can remember dad's XA Falcon doing the same thing.

Good thinking. Totally missed that on the wiring diagram but yes it does appear they are also doubling as reverse lights. I was mentioning to my Wife last night that it was weird it has a reverse light switch, and wires coming from it, but no reverse lights. Guess thats yet another Aus only feature.

3 hours ago, igor said:

Gotta love old cars with simple electrical systems. The issue with the interior light may well be related to the wee push switches in the door shut area. Does it work on door with one/some (edit, forgot it was a coupe) door open? You will be reinstalling the trailer plug in a more sensible manner?

It could well be the switches. I havent checked them, or touched them short of pressing them to see if the light goes on or off. I want to find a replacement light before I go too much further as the other there is turning to white dust.

No, I wont be refitting the trailer wiring. I may even remove the towbar (though it does make a good touch parking deterrent). I wont be using this as a work horse, I have a Corolla for that.

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3 hours ago, locost_bryan said:

Rust in the guards is usually where mud collects, behind the headlights or by the A-pillar.  Looks like it might have had ding and not been well repaired?

I agree, most likely a dent but a bit weird that the arch lip is fine with no bog, but above it is dented in. Might have to look at replacing the whole guard if its too bad, but would be a shame as its mostly rust free.

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1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Are they single wire, or inductive loop style?

Both.

Lucas changed from inductive (RVI) to single wire (RVC) in the early 70s, and it appears the Marina started with RVI then changed to RVC.  The wiring harness should have the bullet connectors for a RVI, or a wire with a spade connector for the RVC.

A GENTLEMAN’S GUIDE TO SMITHS ELECTRONIC TACHOMETERS

Wiring a Marina Tachometer

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