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Discuss here about Yoeddynz's little Imp project...


yoeddynz

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is there any reason why you couldn't machine a donut of lexan (or what ever appropriate material you'd use) to fit in between those flanges and just oring them?

that way if the clearness deteriorates you can just put a new one in, in like 5 minutes + machine time? its possible i miss interpreted your fill level but i understood it to be around the mating surfaces of the existing flanges, so with a lens there the fill mark would be just when the oil starts to appear? would probably be nicer of the fill mark was in the middle but im sure you could rejig something to achieve that too if desired. 


/pour a resin donut and embed another lego man 8-)

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@BlownCorona cheers for ideas!

A few months ago I rang a plastic supplier in Nelson and inquired about clear plastic tube. They can supply 25mm od tube. The inside of the alloy tube is 25.4 iirc. So if the plastic is thick enough I can machine some o ring grooves at each end of a small length (say 5mm longer each end of the sight window I'll machine out from the alloy tube)  this should be fine to seal up and remain removable if I make the cap fitting removable (a through pin or grub screws?)

I'm making a new one peice tube setup now, without the joining flanges. 

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Might be a little low brow compared to the current high standards, but could you tap a fitting into the horizontal section of your filler tube and another into the vertical section, with elbow, and run a short length of clear tube between, kinda like a classic smoko room Zip?

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Thanks man. Yeah I'm really stoked with how they turned out. Now I've got to make sure all the other engine bits and engine bay look nice and neat so not to spoil the show :grin:  

But hell this build is starting to drag out - just as many others on here have no doubt discovered it's that typical build thread 'all those little jobs adding up' stuff. 

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