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The Ol' Crossflow Questions


N3K

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Hi all,

 

Searched this entire forum reading crossflow threads and man they are helpful, but I have a few more questions I want to ask.

 

I am looking at doing my first crossflow transplant. I know bugger all about engines or crossflows for that matter so I am here to ask for help because I want to learn.

 

I've been in contact with Shaneo via PM and he's given me some good tips but I wanted to delve a bit deeper.

 

I have a crossflow engine now, it's a 1300 and it was rebuilt about 6 months ago because the piston rings shit themselves. It's running strong and it's a good little engine but it's.. boringly slow and weak uphill. It has a set of extractors, new alternator, new electronic distributor but everything else appears standard including the single barrel carb.

 

Now I am going to buy a new motor, I've managed to wrangle a complete and running 1600 crossflow. It's standard as. I have some questions to ask and would be really grateful for some explanations and advice from you guys as you've always been a great help in the past.

 

 

- What are some basic, low cost mods that I should do to try and get the most out of the motor?

 

- What's involved in a head port and polish? Is this an expensive thing to get done and what's involved?

 

- I've spoken to a guy in Auckland. He's a Cam Specialist called Henry. He's advised that I should probably look at grinding my cam to save money and it's probably suitable for the mild mods I am trying to achieve. Does anyone have an cam recommendations or sizes? I've been researching and can come up with a Kent 224 being suitable - something between 2000 and 7000rpm for low and mid torque around town.

 

- Considering a have a 1300 already, would I be wise to look at putting those pistons (new rings) into my 1600 block and getting it bored out to fit? Does anyone know a rough price involved in this and is it worth doing?

 

- Assuming the standard 1600 carb is a 32/36 weber. Would you recommend looking at something else or should this be suitable? I hear it shits all over my single barrel which is getting me excited.

 

- I know a 1600 block is taller but will my 1300 extractors fit or require some modification?

 

 

I can't really think of anymore questions to ask at the moment. If anyone has anything for sale, or any advice I would be super grateful. I am so excited to put a new gearbox and motor in my pride and joy. Cannot wait to get more zip.

 

Cheers guys!

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EFI/ itbs/ Slides/dcoes, cam, port and polish, bigger valves, extractors, high comp pistons. this is what you will need to make a crossflow move, it is all costly though.

 

Yes it is expensive to do it properly, the good news is crossflow heads are so crap that almost anything makes them better haha.

 

224 is too small, 234/bcf2 as a minimum imo.

 

1300 pistons go well but it seems like a waste to pull apart a going motor as pistons aren't too expensive.

 

Go EFI if you can, side draughts at a pinch but they are pretty crap in comparison.

 

it will depend on the extractors tbh, but they probably will.

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Basically for cheap hooning build the same spec motor as I had in my Lotus except with a ported head with bigger valves, then your life will be great/ still really slow hahaha

 

 

Hahaha. Yea I understand this. I have expectations. I have been for a hoon in a 1600 kent semi worked and was quite surprised. It had some pull but it's no new engine, ie Zetech or 4age upgrade.

 

I think why I want to stay with kent is for ease of transplant, it's still an early ford motor and they are quite good to learn on?

 

I am kinda aiming for 90-110hp.

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[quote name="N3K"

I am kinda aiming for 90-110hp.

When I was an apprentice I had an escort with a 1600 I built myself, ported the head badly, Kent bcf3 cam kit, bored 60 over and balanced, headers and a single downdraft weber. I got on well with my tutor at tech so on the last day of a block course he put it on the dyno for me, from memory it made 79 hp at the wheels, which is probably close to what you want.

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pretty much if you are trying to do things on a budget stick to level that you want thoughout, as in dont go far above your weakest link. Ie - no point in a massive cam if you dont have a good matching compression ratio / valve sizes etc.

I would think 90 should be achievable, i got 64hp at the wheels with my 1300 pushrod starlet with just a bit of porting, a very very mild cam (i need bigger, its my weakest link) a bit more compression and twin sidies.

One thing to note if you do go to sidies make sure they run small enough venturis, people use ones to big and lose all their low down power.

 

If you are doing work to the head dont polish it, no one polishes ports anymore for good reason. also dont be a butcher and make your ports too big, you lose to much port velocity and in turn bottom end.

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Use the 1300 head with the 1600 valves in it and 1300 pistons with the 1600 block, crank and rods, you'll need a 1600 sump to, the 1300 one doesn't have enough room for the crank.

Deck the block and skim a bit of the head to increase the combustion ratio.

Headers will fit most of the time without drama, some times it gets to close to the floor at the collector and needs some persuasion with heat and a big bar.

A2 Cam, double valve springs, 1600 GT twin Barrel carb and manifold with 2000 jets in it or just fit a 2000 carb to the GT manifold.

Balance the crank, flywheel, front pulley, cam gear and clutch diaphragm as a complete unit.

This will give you a strong engine without being stupid and costing moon beams.

Should see the 80 to 90 HP you are looking at.

 

If you still need more after that look at building a flowed head with over sized valves into your 1600 head, forged pistons, bigger cam (A3) with twin side draft Dellorto or Weber carbs.

Results in about 110 to 120 HP.

 

This is tried and tested, once you get much past this it takes some major $ with light weight after market internals and the gains get smaller and smaller with each stage of mods not to mention they become a pain to drive in city traffic.

 

Good luck mate and welcome to the oldschool community.

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[hijack] I've got a 1300 head sitting around if you don't wanna pull apart either of the running motors and would rather use this to get it grinded out for some bigger valves and such. Make me an offer if you want it basically as I have no idea what the going rate for one is.

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+1 for supercharger

but first unless your a 200% pureist, repower it with literally any other motor ever made

ford telstar b6 with mx5 trans

there is one on google images that some guy has done and the rear mounted cas hit the firewall, for some reason he decided to belt drive it off the front, but you can just get a nb mx5 motor and box that has crank pully type sensor and put telstar valve cover on it. use na mx5 alternator as nb is ecu regulated.

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