cubastreet Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 5 hours ago, UTERUS said: What model starter? Hitachi 119225-77011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Actually I think that's the yanmar part # @UTERUS hitachi S114 443 or S114 443A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 Is it normal for a 4 link kit to taper in 20mm each side? each arm is angled off at one end of the arm where it connects to the bushing. would’ve thought that they would be all straight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 I suppose they are building in a bit of triangulation to control side to side movement? They don't have to be straight as there needs to be compliance in the bushings to allow wheel articulation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted March 13 Share Posted March 13 from memory it helps with rollsteer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Any of you good folk know of an app or whatever that can calculate the correct driveline angles for a 2 piece driveshaft? I need to sort out if the hanger bearing needs relocating and pinion angle. engine sits around 6.5 degrees to sit the carb level. i can’t find any info on standard rx7 driveline angles to start with. from there the first driveshaft is on a 3 degree down slope, then the second hauls arse upwards to ride height. my thinking is the hanger needs lifting up. But lack of good online info has me baffled. Most only go into a single piece set up which is piss easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Most of the online diagrams go out the window with bagged stuff because they are geared toward the pinion being far lower than the output shaft on trans. Spicer has a good angle calc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Yeah I’ve got the pinion angle at 3 degrees, which matches what the uj is at the hanger bearing, front is around 7 or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 What angle is the 2nd shaft on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Lots, I can’t remember, I left the tech drawing pie wrapper on the workbench in the shop 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 4 minutes ago, RXFORD said: What angle is the 2nd shaft on? I took a pic though. ill be making a new shaft for this one cos it doesn’t go into the box far enough now that I’ve changed a couple of things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Is that laid out or at ride height? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 That’s only ride height, or just lower than ride height (90mm clearance). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Looks like raising the hanger bearing would be pretty easy. How much more penetration do you need into the box? Can you make a 30-50mm spacer with a male and female spigot to go into the front of the diff flange to space the shaft forward? If you do it at the same time as the hanger move it will look 'stock' too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Just now, fletch said: Looks like raising the hanger bearing would be pretty easy. How much more penetration do you need into the box? Can you make a 30-50mm spacer with a male and female spigot to go into the front of the diff flange to space the shaft forward? If you do it at the same time as the hanger move it will look 'stock' too Yup I could do a spacer for the rear. it will be about 40mm at most by the time I raise the hanger, this will push the shaft in a little more at the same time. that entire hanger crossbeam can disappear in favour of a new one. luckily this sits in behind the cab too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 Because you have a greater angle on the gearbox than the first shaft, raising the hanger will make the operating angle of the front UJ worse and its already at 3.5° based on the angles you mentioned on box and first shaft, so wouldn't really want to go any more than that. The lower the first shaft angle, the less rotational pulsation the second shaft will have to try cancel out. The higher the rpm, the lower the operating angle should be. If it was the other way around like most vehicles, for example the gearbox was 3° down and the first shaft was 6.5° down, then raising the hanger would help get the front UJ to a lesser angle. Are you sure the box is 6.5° with carb where it needs to be? Are you measuring that off the crank pulley/sump? Seems like alot. I can't remember what the last rotary I mounted ended up being with the carb level tbh. Post up a rough/close enough angle of the rear shaft when you get a chance. I'l calc it how it currently sits and see what the pinion ends up at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 @RXFORD I tried relocating the engine and box a bit. this crossmember is from the other ute that the previous owner mounted. so I dropped the front crossmember 25mm, and raised the box 25mm. now the out put shaft/engine is at 5.2 down, first shaft is 5.4 down, second shaft is 11.2 up if the rear pinion is at 5.2 to match the hanger uj. is that ballpark correct now? this pulls the carb 2 degrees forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 This is the carb angle compared to the block. Probably why rear rotors burn up in most carbed cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Please pardon my ignorance of all things rotary but why are they configured like that? Is there any reason for the inlets not being at right angles to the rotational axis of the rotors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 2 minutes ago, igor said: Please pardon my ignorance of all things rotary but why are they configured like that? Is there any reason for the inlets not being at right angles to the rotational axis of the rotors? Maybe to accommodate from the massive Gs on mega torque clutch dumps and wheel stands? Haha yeah right. not sure, but by my retarded thinking, if the engine is flattened off and the carbs leans forward 5-6 degrees then the rear rotor may be more likely to lean out and heat up. Which is what kills most 12a’s - dead rear rotors. going to injection would fix that, until it dies eventually anyway (I am yet to have one die). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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