igor Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 If it works.... That bastard double post is back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 5 minutes ago, h4nd said: 2 || lipo, easy. Oh, you can has mains? Well, is 2Fiddy too much? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/13-8v-40a-switchmode-bench-power-supply/p/MP3089?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4mmOTYQPrmYhm-zriE338bz0AvlewRgMaoQkyPeuknaqPXv3SryrKIaAqK6EALw_wcB voltage is marginal but I reckon that'd do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 3 minutes ago, gibbon said: voltage is marginal but I reckon that'd do it Send me a pic of it's innards, and I'll tell you how to goose it. The resistor is gonna cost you 12c 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 2 minutes ago, h4nd said: Send me a pic of it's innards, and I'll tell you how to goose it. The resistor is gonna cost you 12c Actually here's a tangental question - what we do have already is a 3 phase fed 28v DC ground power unit for starting turbines, how do I tap off a 14v feed from that without frying myself? it's the size of a doghouse and good for 200a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 Pics. Clear circuit diagrams are better. If the input is delta connected, changing it to star would probably get you in the ballpark. Best have a sparky check it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 I have looked inside once and there's a TIE fighter in there, is that enough to go off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 So why exactly do you need precisely 14V? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 @ajg193 it's for rigging some electric landing gear that has a dynamic brake on the actuator, the manual is insistent that in order to get everything to stop in the right place with the right tension on the locks given the momentum of the whole assembly, that it be rigged at 14v instead of 12v. It's not really "precisely 14v", just more something in line with what the bus would be expecting with the engine operating 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 What's your budget? RSP-1000-15 from RS components will do 50A, adjustable between 13.5V and 16.5V https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/switching-power-supplies/6783868?gb=b Rs is quite good about discounts if you ask, they might chop 80-100 off 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 That'd definitely do it, too... Price is getting a little up there for something thatd only be getting hauled out once or twice a year. Ideally I'd like to modify our 28v ground power unit as discussed above, but $500 doesn't even buy much sparky time these days. Anyway at least I've got a few options now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 SuperCheap auto spade crimp sockets are shit. No spring, loose at the 1st use. Do not recommend. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post tomble Posted September 11, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted September 11, 2023 Dunno really where else to put this, but it might save someone's day who has been putting some work into their google-fu. We were suffering a no-start no-crank issue with our MX5 NA and it was driving us a bit nuts. Every so often it would fail to start when the key was turned, but backing it off a bit and trying again would usually sort it. The ignition switch is a common failure point on these cars so Girlface serviced it, but shortly thereafter it wouldn't start at all. Sometimes, but not always, we'd hear one-off clicks from the engine bay, like relays being activated. The usual suspects had alibis: Battery is fine (and jump-starting does nothing) Starter is fine (verified by jumping it directly) Fuses all fine Ground lead and positive lead to starter are fine (jumped engine block to chassis, and starter to +ve) It was really starting to get Girlface down and she hates electrical stuff so I rolled my sleeves up and took the ignition switch out, started identifying what pins are active when the key is turned, the idea being I'd jump the loom directly to rule out the ignition switch. However I plugged the switch directly back into the loom when i was done and turned it with a screwdriver... and it turned over no problem! I held it back up to the key barrel, turned the key... no start. It seemed as if the key didn't have enough travel to be able to properly turn the ignition switch all the way. I had a brainwave and rotated the switch as much as I could towards me, there's a fractional amount of play in it, and suddenly the key works every time! What I believe has happened is that the wear and tear on the switch has given it more and more slop over time, to the point where the key at max throw would barely activate it. Backing the key off and trying again might be enough to counteract some of that wear and be just enough to make contact. When Girlface reinstalled the switch she must have given it a little more slop than it had, leading it to finally lose the war to the key. Rotating the switch helps counteract that wear and tear. I also secured it as firmly as I could dare to help prevent it from slipping. Over time we might be able to further extend the life of it by fettling bits of the switch housing such that it can rotate even more. A brand new OEM ignition switch is $225 and 2 months away but we might just order it anyway for preventative maintenance. Hopefully this saves some other poor soul that has tried everything short of replacing the ignition switch. 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 Fucked up and took Anglia to vtnz for wof, multiple rechecks and brake adjustments later they told me to just go somewhere that does a road test instead of rollers. The car stops dead straight with your hands off the steering wheel but every time they test it the back brakes give a different result. Bugger em, booked in for a wof somewhere else now 5 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Rotary counterweights. I have a counterweight from an N/A 13b. Which part of the engine is this matched to? The rotors? I also have the flywheel off the same motor. That has some pretty significant counterweight machined into it too. Would I sell these parts together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 On 13/08/2023 at 21:15, HighLUX said: Think the vac hose from the booster to the manifold was the issue, it was all hard and split on the end of the hose where it slides onto the booster. Cut it a bit shorter and slid it back on then tried the idle re learn again followed by a bit of a drive. Seems to be happy and doing what its supposed to like bumping the idle up when AC turns on etc. Idle seems alot more stable and doesnt fluctuate even slightly like it used to. Would make sense with how the problem has slowly got worse as the hose fell to bits with the fact I dont think the idle was reset by the battery shop or the auto sparkys when the alternator was done so dodgy idle from that and the vacuum leak making it worse/even worse when it was trying to reset the idle Basically I was today old when I learnt that Toyotas with drive by wire freak out when you take the power off the battery. So yeah the problem came back and have had a good chance to look at it. Started by testing the resistance of the cam and crank angle sensor. Cam was sweet but the crank was all over the show hmmm it must be stuffed so started taking the alternator off to get to it. Turns out the auto sparky who replaced the alternator was a massive dick fingerer. Alternator was loose on the main swing bolt and they had snapped the hidden lower mount bolt with the belt tension pulling the alternator in and on an angle slightly. This had squished the wires to the crank sensor and chewed thru one completely with it still sometimes completing the circuit thru the alternator body. Guess the alternator moving slightly sometimes as it loaded up or unloaded would make the circuit or kill it completely which is why it was so intermittent 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 Turns out the had also snapped the wires to the aircon pump instead of unplugging it so now iv got cold air again for summer which will be nice 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 Ok science nerds, I think I know the answer if I have a tall pressurised cylindrical vessel (25+bar head) 1/2 full of water with a drain at the bottom is it the same or more or less susceptible to vortexing than the equivalent tank without the head of pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 On 13/08/2023 at 21:23, HighLUX said: Chur bowl This was the fix, rotatey bit was not rotating 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted September 14, 2023 Share Posted September 14, 2023 4 hours ago, mjrstar said: Ok science nerds, I think I know the answer if I have a tall pressurised cylindrical vessel (25+bar head) 1/2 full of water with a drain at the bottom is it the same or more or less susceptible to vortexing than the equivalent tank without the head of pressure? Potentially worse due to the possibility of having gas entrained in the liquid. We put vortex breakers inside our separators above the outlet pipework and it helps but not cures it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted September 14, 2023 Share Posted September 14, 2023 Yeah I figured worse, the level transmitter suggests the tank is over 50% full but potentially telling lies. Vortex can be brutal, even with just minimal suction head from a pump let alone 20+bar in a condenser vessel with a bunch of steam hooning at a couple of hundred degrees.. I looked deeper into the system and I'm even more convinced that she's got the mean swirl on.. I wish it was a glass vessel so you could see what's happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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