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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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I'd assume that the first current draw would be a spike of quite large amplitude. You could try turning the hot water off tomorrow - just for a few minutes around 4pm. And anything else that comes on then. Should prove it one way or another.

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Im going to try unplugging the cable first from the usb then from the screen, if it still does unplugged from the usb but does not do it unplugged from the screen I will assume that it is the power cable.

I can probably just move the trigger cable to another route if thats the case.

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13 hours ago, ThePog said:

I bought a new projector screen cos the old one was too shit to use with the new ultra short throw projector I have. It has a 5v trigger so I made a cable to suit that plugs into a usb port on the projector or the little pc that runs it.

This is good as the screen comes down when the projector cranks up, however weirdly at around 4pm every day the screen decides to descend of it own accord. This has happened both while plugged into the pc and the projector.

The only thing I can think of is that the power feed to the house is running under the floor just there and that the trigger cable is lying on the floor above it and in line with it for maybe 2m. Would the ripple control in the power line be enough to induce a 5v signal in the wire?

Its the only reasonable explanation apart from a burst of IR light coming from somewhere at 4pm every day....

Cables being in line for 2m would be unlikely to cause enough induced voltage. Unless trigger is quite a bit less than 5v?

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8 minutes ago, crash said:

Cables being in line for 2m would be unlikely to cause enough induced voltage. Unless trigger is quite a bit less than 5v?

Trigger voltage is 5 to 12v, so realistically 3 or 4v IRL maybe?

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21 minutes ago, crash said:

Try what GregT mentioned above. Or maybe a ferrite ring thing around trigger cable.

I do have some ferrites lying around somewhere.

I might just do away with it as the the USB on the projector does not reliably switch off, I put it into standby mode rather than full shutdown and sometimes it does not switch off that port.

Or use the port on the pc that i stopped using cos I thought that was what was causing it. I fully shut that down and the back ones are not always on like the fronts.

I have left it unplugged out of the projector so i will see what happens today.

Perplexing.

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Hey Oldschool brains trust, a mate of mine has a Mazda Tribute V6 (Ford Duratec apparently?)with some issues. Last time I drove it December(ish) it had a slight stumble/hesitation at 100km/h on partial load. Idle was sweet, full noise was fine. It sounds like it has deteriorated since.

These photos were taken this week, and this video shows the popping and farting around 4k rpm. What's the e-diagnosis? A warm can of Dobro or a Blue Diesel to the successful candidate...

 

IMG-20230506-WA0002.jpg

IMG-20230506-WA0001.jpg

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30 minutes ago, cletus said:

At my previous job, for low budget customers,i wrapped insulation tape around the insulator to fix them a few times 

 

Its not a lower rpm limit in neutral? Doesnt really sound like a dead coil 

https://www.fixya.com/cars/t19336252-2003_mazda_tribute_sputters_4000_rpm I think you might be on the money with the lower limit in neutral. Cheers!

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Good glue options for sticking plastics to old car interior plastics? Think 80's Toyota plastics. My epoxy clear glue dried out so before buying something new, keen to see if people have good experiences with certain products. 

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