peteretep Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I am fitting an ecu to run my escort, I would like to fit a connector at the bulkhead / firewall so that it can be easily disconnected to remove the engine etc. I bought a connector from diyautotune but it is massive, maybe it looks like a good size in an american car but it is way too big for what I want. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html There are 1 million variations on the milspec connector but I am finding it hard to select one that would suit me and not cost $300+ something like this would be sweet http://www.waytekwire.com/item/38488/ Ideally I want something with at least 16 pins and maybe 4-5 pins capable of running 7+ amps or are they a bad idea and I should do something else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 That auto tune one looks sweeet I reckon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 They are fucking huge, no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I looked down this route but I found it simpler and cheaper to just make the wiring longer and buy a grommet and wrap the wiring in conduit then slip the grommet over the conduit nice and snugly . it looks tidy as , and later when you work on the engine you just pull the loom through the hole. . I got the grommets from trade me and used a centre hole punch a size smaller then the conduit . the major down side to this is the engine loom have to cover everything to make it effective ie: one complete loom for the engine side. takes a bit of time to remember every thing . also you cant keep your shielded wiring shielded in a plug assembly, not sure if you would have that much of an issue with inductance but still something to keep in the back of your mind . also less resistance with less connectors etc. I guess with sensitive wiring applications the less you interrupt it the better as every little bit ads up. the other idea is going to get something like a falcon loom plug from a wrecker , or and other similar weather proof plug. they are not to hard to disassemble and re pin , just need to take time to extract the pins. even if you fuck the pin jay car sell replacement ones . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Amphenol connectors? http://www.firstflex.co.nz/c146-6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 would two smaller mil spec style ones be a cheaper/easier option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 give me some part numbers tom and ill buy them this guy has run a shielded cable through a connector http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?191774-My-Wiring-Looms-Build!-24v-R32-Mk3-Mk1-V6-Content/page2 there is also a few good connectors shown on that site, one of the issues is getting the right parts though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Or check out the Euro cars at Pick a Part and grab a plug off one of those and solder in? Theres a shit tonne of them in varying sizes - beemers have them for example. Yes its not new and bling but they are pretty good and will work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 out of intrest, what is the reason for the connector? i guess if your injectors are in an awkward place to unclip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Probably to undo one connector and pull the motor out without having to undo all the injector plus, temp sensors, cam angle etc etc? Keen to see what you'll find... I haven't found anything sensible yet (though in not actively looking just yet) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 I just want to be able to unclip the loom in the engine bay if the engine is removed, and its a tidy way of going through the firewall 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sluggy Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I just bought a pile of the deutsch connectors, maybe a couple of the 12 pin varieties would work ? I tried to find what you were looking for for not much money but couldn't come up with anything usefull. Not a firewall connector but would accomplish what you want to do. Once I've wired up what I have anything I have left is up for grabs, probably have a few spare connectors for cheap as. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 got any pics/model numbers of what you bought. where did you get them from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sluggy Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Do an ebay search under deutsch, I think I got the 350 ish piece kit for about 400 bucks landed including the crimp tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 this guy has run a shielded cable through a connector http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?191774-My-Wiring-Looms-Build!-24v-R32-Mk3-Mk1-V6-Content/page2 there is also a few good connectors shown on that site, one of the issues is getting the right parts though that isn't shielding the pins though, which is what i was talking about. its shielded up to the plug. it will still be vulnerable from electromagnetic inductance . and on anything like oxygen sensor crank and cam even tps wiring where they use small voltages and inductance will create a false signal . he has done a good job but perhaps if the signal pins were as far away as possible in the connector then it would stand a much better chance of not inducing voltage. would be intersting to test to see how much voltage is inducted over the pin area. anyway i looked for ages and couldn't find anything that was cheep enough to justify the expense. the link ecu plug is very small ,its even in that link up above, and if this is the ecu you want to run then simplest option is to use a grommet and make a 40 ish mm hole( might be smaller i cant remember its exact size) i don't think you will find anything that is brand new for under 300 bucks to be honest, but if you do please enlighten me as having one connector would make life easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 P.s. you can get shielded plugs but they are way over kill for what Pete is doing. Pete isn't even having anything in his loom that requires a shield so he'll be fine. There isn't really any/much noise in the signal lines of the ignition etc, and if there was he would be fucked anyway as it still goes back to the ecu where it would then put the noise in regardless. There are a few options in the sub$300 ra he, but none are great or easy or cheap. Go to mouser.com and look for connectors>round connectors>mil spec and there will be a few options depending on how many wires and how much current etc you actually need to pass through the connector Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 what about make an alloy plate with a grommet in it. run the wires are per normal through the grommet to the ecu plug, when you want to take the motor out unplug from ecu and unscrew 4 or 6 screws holding said plate to firewall to uncover hole large enough for the ecu connector. not as flash harry but probably cheaper and for what work it would be making the alloy plate you save yourself 30 odd pins to solder/crimp and reduce the possibility for a bad joint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Just do the testament idea and have it running through the top of the trans tunnel similar to Alex's setup on the viva. Would look sooper tidy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Trailer plug? I looked into it once for my sub-box and amps, boat stuff might be the go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmatt4 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/circular-connectors/industrial-automation-circular-connectors/?applied-dimensions=4294868378&esid=cl_4294967294,cl_4294959752,cl_4294958762,cl_4294957970,cl_4294960342,cl_4294958851&m=1 try these guys i use them all the time race cars and stuff pricey but worth it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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