Snoozin Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 First time poster long time reader, great work as always Matt. This is going to be hilarity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Yeah cheers Richie. I am hoping the smile factor is on par with the starlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furai Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Fudgemonkeys this is crazy. My 60HP feels real weak now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 So I'm back from my holiday and had a tinker around in the shed yesterday, i am still putting off building the gearbox mount so decided to strip and clean the master cylinder. seals and bore were mint, there was a bunch of sludge in the front portion of the bore, but it all cleaned up pretty nicely.. Minor problem with the fitment to the booster with the pushrod being too long even when adjusted fully in, i guess i can cut it down and reshape the ball end. it'd be easier than spacing out the master away from the booster. Will have to chat with the champion behind the tig regarding the 100mm thick cooler, I think it should work with nice short piping if the inlet and outlet are moved, or could be run as is with longer pipework. it probably needs to be changed as the 3 inch ends are probably a bit over the top.. Still on the hunt for tasty suspension keeping an eye out on YAJ etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Interested in your use of Mitsy GTO calipers? I'm looking at fitting a set to my Starion, and noticed they had different size leading and trailing pistons. It looks like you've got them fitted behind the wheels (closer to the center of the car), so I'm assuming you've swapped the original LHS one to the RHS, and vice versa to get the bleeders up the top. Does that not also swap around the leading and trailing piston locations? Might make the pads wear funny under race conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Yeah the plan is to leave the nipples at the bottom and remove / flip the calipers for bleeding. Not ideal I know but if the braking system is behaving they wont need bleeding too often. Depending on clearance I might even go back to evo 4 twin pots or rx7 4pots so plenty of options for calipers on the rx7 knuckle bolt patter. I have seen nasty uneven pad wear where the caliper piston lead in is incorrect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Ahhh I see, cool . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 FINALLY made some progress on the dreaded gearbox mount... looks like it should do the trick.... also got some bits for the intercooler piping.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 looks like the blatantly borrowed idea for the intercooler pipe swaging tool works a treat.. Tom / Testament suggested hammer use was required although i'm not sure what i should have been using the hammer for so i missed out that step. I have been discussing ideas to ensure a more than capable cooling system.. to ensure best cooling capabilty good flow from the back of the head is a must. Although not sure if machining a new fitting for the back of the block or a pick-a-part frankenstein is a better idea... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 That swaging tool looks to work great!! Where did ya get the bends from? They look to be the super thin wall sort that would be hard to weld? The calipers should be no problem for a man of your talents!!!! Just drill and tap a new nipple hole on the top side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 the piping seems to be of a reasonable thickness so should be allright / i gues we'll find out - they were from DSR turbo.. Have considerd drilling extra bleed holes / won't do anything until hub and knuckle has been finalised. Might even go back to evo IV 2 pot calipers yet..(worst case scenario) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Have you considered using a remote thermostat setup off a AE101 Levin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 I have the mx5 thermostat housing which lends itself to plumbing in-line although the main concern is flow rates through the thermostat it might be ok for 120hp of b6 (or 4age) fury but not fully convinced it has the capability to deal with 400hp worth of heat.. I'm thinking late model evo (with welded fittings to fit in-line) or maybe something that can be machined out to take a larger thermostat with big flow capability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Make your own thermostat housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 11, 2013 Author Share Posted July 11, 2013 Plan on doing the real cut on the driveshaft tomorrow - so thought it would be best to see how this stuff machines up.. nothing in the way of splintering / delamination and cut well at low RPM. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrismx5 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Wow. Epic build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 12, 2013 Author Share Posted July 12, 2013 Driveshaft appears to be win... Same can't be said for this milling setup... really needed a hole saw... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_m Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 In regards to thermostat issue. have you thought about an electric water pump setup. They are $495 for the 115LPM pump and controller. Means you can fuck of the thermostat completely as the controller adjusts pump speed vs coolant temp. Then you could just make up the piping you need in the diameter you need/want. I reckon they are the best thing ever, especially if running a massive alloy radiator 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 14, 2013 Author Share Posted July 14, 2013 ^^ interesting option, I'm not sure that I am overjoyed at the prospect of an electric water pump (not sure why) intercooler mods.. cooler and rad mounting sorted, plumbing coming along nicely, need to decide on the turbo inlet and BOV to finish off driveshaft completed - well except for balancing and trial burn-out 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick_m Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 Looks sharp! We put them electric WPs on heaps of cars at work. We use the Davies craig ones through NZperformance Just have a google heaps of stuff on them, Im going to roll one on the race car. Once you shortened your DS did you just bash it onto the splines or did you glue it too? How would a carbon DS be balanced, glue little balancing weights?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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