flyingbrick Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Hit it with the hacksaw and the end was not resined or glued at all. Just a real fine spline pressed in with a bead of sealant on the very end to stop moisture getting in... Its looking like win so far.. Pics? That's insane! That shaft have some kinda hp or tq rating or recommendation? Moar pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylann Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 what is the detail on those hubs? sorry if i've missed it haha. sweet build so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 Hubs are evo 1-3. Dudes in the states are rocking 700+hp through the factory driveshafts. They are a pretty meaty diameter.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Was this car manual? If so, do you still have the engine and box? We're on the lookout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 All gone about 4 weeks ago sorry... Got sick of tripping over all the junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Sweet, just checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 More progress too busy working to knock out many progress photos so this boring update will have to do... but basically.... Engine mounts sorted. Gearbox position finalised, bolted up to G.B adaptor. - ready to work on G.B cross member / body mounts VR4 CAS ... modified to fit late model head Diff pinion angle agreed upon, just need to whip up the mounts. measurements take to have driveshaft adaptor machined. plan is to allow for an R200 to be fitted later down the track without re-shortening the driveshaft. This means a 35 mm aluminium adaptor will be used for the evo diff but binned in the case that the skyline diff finds it's way in there. (if/ when the diff explosion takes place) Rear discs fitted (after trimming the internal drum materal via some lathe love), plan made for a nice simple DIY caliper bracket. billet wheeled evo 9 based turbo with a slightly flasher setup than the unit on my evo 4. - should be not too many suprises as to how that will perform. Probably did some other stuff which escapes my memory right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 The composite driveshaft is factory? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Yip sure is...$280 off tardme.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Working on rear brake positioning. should be a bit meatier than the standard NB swap which seems to be the most common upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 More steel ..... not particularly exciting... Caliper bracket and diff mount bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Sorry to go on about it mate- is that an Rx-8 shaft? I love diy shit like this! Wouldn't mind rocking a cf propeller shaft myself, I'm amazed by its simplicity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Prop shaft is from a 350/370z, but yes i believe the rx8 is a CF jobbie too.. naturally the Z one was the weapon of choice given the yoke is correct for the 6 speed nissan box. ( and cheaper ... the whole driveshaft was cheaper than just a front yoke/uni) There is going to be a bit of messing around to get the end trimmed up square enough (probably needs to be within .1 or.2 of a mm) and naturally it's not guranteed to work. Once the diff positioning is finished and the diff adaptor sorted i'll focus on the driveshaft again. The main problem will be finding someone with a decent sized lathe (at least 85mm head stock) that wants to have a burn at it. Ithere has been talk of other trimming options including a cutting jig, but the main drama is the outside surface is not perfectly parallel (and can't be clamped too tight) and the datum is on the inside of the tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Would ATL touch it? I know a guy who would probably be keen but his lathe wouldn't be anywhere near large enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 If the ID is good then machine a piece of steel shaft to fit the ID firmly. Then you can grab the other end in the chuck and support the cut end of the shaft on a steady or Center running on/in the steel shaft. Square up the end of shaft with tool and remove steel when done. BOOM. Or machine a steel plug that you can tap into ID. Use plug as a guide to file down driveshaft by hand or cut with hand saw. Have tapped hole in plug for extraction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Intrigued my this plug idea.. Will have to give it some consideration. It could even be tube so long as it was a snug fit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Yus, you just need a way of pulling out lol. Slide hammer? Edit. Lol use self control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furai Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Looking good. With discs that beefy the handbrake might work! NB is standard for any light modded NA as you only need discs, pads and caliper brackets. Theres a few guys with serious track/turbo or V8 machines who have some of the more serious brake upgrades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I'm hoping the front brake package will put the rears to shame - but there are a few issues with fitment at the moment..... I have finished off the rear sub frame and had it media blasted at the burglars which are cleverly disguised as a panel and paint shop across the road from my work. They did however do a nice job as there was some pitting corrosion on one half and it really did need done. I slammed some primer and 2 part black on and it’s pretty much ready to bolt back in... I just need to find a new fuel tank as there is some nasty corrosion in the current tank and it’s not worth risking a fuel blockage... Probably need to start working on the sump next... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mjrstar Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 a couple of people wer asking last night about my front hub situation. As discussed i have a different problem now but hopefully i have seen the back of those 28mm stubs Enter series 6 rx7 knuckles.... Yes I have noticed that they are 5 stud.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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