mjrstar Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Failburger pictureless update but main points are as follows: Gearbox will fit width wise and requires only minor relief height at the rear to give good clearance inside the tunnel. Proposed driveshaft angles looks to be fairly good. Diff and axles, fit within the current subframe /arm combo but are not far from bottoming, plan is to find a second subframe cut them up and use 2 halves to extend it ~20mm to give some safety margin. Rear evo wheel flanges will press into the rear hubs with only minor mods and factory bearings. 28mm front stub diameter is not going to cut the mustard, custom hubs is looking like the best option to increase stub / wheelbearing diameter and build enough offset to clear the brakes. 270MM rear discs is not ambitious enough, aim should be 290-295mm to make best use of available space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Just giving the manifold back its cast look finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 trans tunnel mods.. Not 100% finished until the shifter position is finalised but should be enough to stop the car folding in half.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Mitsi hub meet Mazda Knuckle, welcome 4x114 stud pattern. Win, although the front won't be that easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furai Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Man you work fast, looks good interesting combo on the driveline. What year is your car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Pretty sure the car is an 89 or maybe 90.. it's pretty poverty spec no power steer, a/c, electric windows etc.. Hoping to pick up a power steer rack and the second rear subframe to get that sorted this weekend.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Grabbed the donor rear subframe last night and managed to eyball a couple of racks..... Steering racks that is, this is the NA (top) and NB (bottom), the NB looks like a goer as it's less bulky around the area the sump will want to occupy, and piping angles look like they will give better clearance. the mounting is solid at one end which is a bonus although the standard mount holes will be about 1/2 a hole out and apparently they use different rack ends. Also got a chance to look at some aftermarket bracing for an NA and the factory NB bracing for the rear subframe, neither of which will work due to the extra subframe width.. but it has given me a few ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Got a chance to spend a bit of time in the shed.. chop chop weld weld Trial fit.. will probably look to muck up some of the diff mounting before giving the subframe a clean up and lick of paint... complete with 4x114 hub fitted up, subframe is just on an inch wider than factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Do you want to keep the power steer? They're much better without it (I noticed a vast improvement). There are a few tricks you can to to use the powersteer rack for a quicker rate and good feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 i am kind of keen on converting it to power steer for quicker response especially with the extra rubber and offset. Currently it has a manual rack in the car. What is better without the power assist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Rear diff mounts sorted.. was a bit of mucking around installing and removing but worth it for proof of concept and finding. A suitable position for the diff. Also put the subframe on weight watchers for unwanted brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Wow. That looks good. You'd have to be pleased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Awesome. So how does the subframe mount to the car now that it's wider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 I just moved the mounting holes inwards on the subframe, so it will fit onto unmodified chassis rail mounting provisions. It has gained a touch more angle to the rear struts, but i still like this idea rather than modifying all four suspension arms or messing around with shortening axles etc.. Should look a whole lot better once it's had a dose of the wire wheel and some paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Re: power steer, I found the car felt twitchy and the front end feel wss vague with it connected. We also had issues with hoses popping off mid race (maybe the pump rpm was too high?). We removed it and I've found it easier to place the car without getting loose and haven't noticed the extra weight while racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 They take them apart and remove the inner oil seals on the shaft as they have a fuck tonne of friction and make it heaps harder to turn. Just slap some grease in to keep it lubed and then block the lines/blanking plug. It would pay to verify that as I potentially just made that up but I remember something along those lines EDIT: I realise this isnt what you were asking hah. As you were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 This thing is insanely awesome by the way. You are gonna have mx5 boys all over your ass after some 114.3 adaptor kits haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 I had seen a bit of a tech article on the de assist mods for power steer. Either way plan A is to convert to a solid mounted PS rack and then de-assist it if required. Note it will probably be an electric rather than engine driven pump (at this stage). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Yip, good move. It's easy to get rid of it later if needed. The rear end looks great too! I'm looking forward to seeing this car in action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 We are intending to run a MR2 PS pump in the carina under the dash in a firebox (with the accusump). We are going to run it off a VFO that is controlled by a dial ramping the pump speed up and down. This means we can set it to our preference as 2 of us will be using the car. This negates all the MR2's steering sensors, and extra ecu we require. The rear subframe looks rad. I need to rebuild ours to take a JZX90 diff and axles but its going to be far more involved i think as i want to keep the Carina trailing arm suspension. Still working on a game plan for this, current idea is "lets just see if whats in there blows up first" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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