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Air bag suspension chat


KKtrips

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I'm almost wondering whether it would be worth doing a bag setup with no compressor etc and just filling a large tank with a normal 240V compressor or running dive tanks and just changing every few months?

Whats the go with the controllers? Can you get a very simple controller, solinoid and valve set that just does on bumps and cruise heights on all 4 corners? Probably wouldn't be too hard to just set it up on a single switch with a power relay I guess.

If you never wanted to change your ride height you would be fine with no compressor, but you will use a large tank of air by going from full drop to your driving height. So your fine if you never wanted to change your ride height. What if you went to someone place for the night and your system develops a slow leak ( it happens) and you're cars on the deck in the morning and they don't have a compressor... would be gay.

Simplest controller just has ground, and 3 or 4 pre-set heights, the most basic one needs 4 pressure senders at a minimum to figure out how much air to send to each bag to get your heights correct. This setup will have no height correction for passengers as you need more pressure to get the arse off the ground with more weight. So the next level of controller has height sensors as well which are just variable resistors on your suspension arms. This now gives your car full auto leveling and weight compensation. So now you just press low and roll, playing with switches is gay

WALL OF TEXT

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Having the first setup sounds pretty good then, definitely don't need any kind of auto leveling or height settings, just 3 settings that are independant front to rear so you can load up the back abit more for people/towing would be ideal.

What kind of money are those worth though?

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Stuff about bags etc.

someone should install in the lux whilst im sleeping as a xmas present... problem being I don't really get why all the notching etc (i get why... just not "why") i.e. "hae here is useful device for moving heapa stuffs... delete carrying capacity with silly framing/tanks/shocks/ other junk...

AKA static drop with no notch for me I guess/n00b=me

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I'm still considering only bagging the rear, just for ease of pretty much everything. Have the front set very low on coils/static so it still handles nicely and then set the rear up on bags to bring the whole car down.

Pro's; will sit low, can raise rear only so it won't get bellied on stuff, good for loading with people or towing, cheaper, don't have to plumb lines and wires through entire car, more simple to setup and also simplified control system, less air capacity required, will be able to do it sooner rather than later.

Con's; can't raise the front at all, might aswell do the lot at the same time, can't "lay frame".

Thoughts? This should probably not be in spam :lol:

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mikuni, surely putting bags in the back purely for loading the back when there are fat bitches/a trailer is a bit silly? just get air shocks

im useless though so who knows, just seems pretty pointless

edit-just saw your post on air shocks. get those haha

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Pretty much, but also to bring height up for going over bumps etc because generally the only time when low matters is getting into/out of driveways, over speedbumps etc, so having quick responce height adjustablity even in the rear only, would solve that issue and still allow max low.

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Ok so I split most of this out of spam, as it was getting abit out of hand in spam.

This is just for general chat/questions about bags so ask away.

Andrew yea Citroen shit is pretty much the ultimate solution for ride especially now its active. But its only going to be easy to retrofit in a vehicle with a similar layout, and will still be allot more difficult than bags in most cases

Cam pressure depends on the load (weight) the over the bags, in the back of the crown I would run under 50psi easy at cruise height. Took shit loads more pressure in the front to get the engine off the ground

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When ordering bags for the front can you specify the max OD because those bags above may not fit in some of the smaller vehicles strut towers. Probably ok in Commodores and the like.

For the extra cost of sleeve and the alloy collars etc, I think I'd try and just dummy it up first and then make the lower bag seats fixed. Shouldn't be too hard to get it right the first time/famous last words. It would be nice to have some adjustability but those threaded sleeves and collars are suprisingly expensive from what I have seen.

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Yeah I hear you would run through a dive tank in about half an hour if your all about flicking the swtiches for the bitches.

AS for auto leveling etc, my plan is just run 4 valves, 2 for lift and two for dump, set up for front and back, and a dual pressure gauge to know how you normally role, then if you have more load then pump up more air.

If you wanted to just have bags for loading person, poly air bags that sit inside springs are a great option, however still, The abilty to slam is the key.

And as for air compressors, anyone see an issue with running a factory air con unit to suit your motor, Oil drip before the intake aide of it, and one or two dryers after to remove the oil. Seems pretty cheap and it takes fuck all oil to keep a air con pump working. And if your looking for cheap air tanks maybe try hitting up a refrigeration place that does air con or something, each unit has a tank and are kind small, so you could modulate them to where you can fit them? however the outlets would have to be changed to half inch lines

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Yea factory aircon pumps and a oiler setup are the way to go if a york isn't an option. Plenty of info on the net for this, its popular in 4x4 installations for on board air.

You will have to run a fuck load more air line to only use 4 valves seedy, just use 4. Then if you ever want a self adjusting setup its easy to implement

Brad those bag controllers range from $800 up to $1500 depending. There are DIY options around though

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