Simon Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Now I remember why I'm not doing bags ^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 just out of curiosity, what does a basic aribag set up cost? say with 2 preset heights. obviusly it depends on if you put it in or get it done etc, but anyone got a rough idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo5365 Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Airbag-S ... ticle.html seems pretty interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 You will have to run a fuck load more air line to only use 4 valves seedy, just use 4. Then if you ever want a self adjusting setup its easy to implement Yeah but im a cheap cunt and half inch steel tube is alot cheaper (although hard to bend) than decent valves. Could always go with the three way valves but I hear they are shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Thought you were using hydrospastic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Say worst case paying retail from the drop shop or something for bags they are $200 each, so $800 for bags (can get better than this). Cheapest electric pump is around $400 for something that isn't super shit house. If your car has a AC pump you don't use for AC anymore you can use this for a superior setup for a couple hundred $$ for a oiler and dryer You'll need a tank, you could get a small one from a factory setup ie crown/ambulance etc for basically free. Or spend a couple hundy on a larger new tank A switch box controller goes for anywhere from $200 to $400, or you could look into some other cheaper solutions out there.You will need air lines that can eat a a couple hundred dollars, and some gauges. Gauges and controller are one thing if you buy an electronic controller decent 2 port brass valves are around$100 - $150 each so a bunch of those Shit adds up pretty quick Most of this is rough retail pricing, it can be much cheaper if you shop around or have hook ups Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 haha are you planning on jumping this thing Al? because you wont need 1/2 inch lines, and using steel is retarded haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 nylon and fittings from twl tank from twl or one of the many truck wreckers around win can do the hardware shit so cheap if you don't go to scene taxed places like drop shop 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoBilly Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 i put air bags in my evo a few years ago it was really easy, i brought a kit from overseas $2k was shit everything craped out but now that i know what i do i could do it again for under $1000 i took the sway bars out of the evo so i could do show stuff side to side etc and the car handled better then factory and had no body roll what so ever for a controler all ya need is 4x 2way switches and 8 relays its best to have 2 valves per bag one up and one down if you run just 2 valves for 2 bags so front 2 bags up and front 2 bags down you run the risk of air transfer from side to side (not very nice to drive) as for leveling all most people do is buy 2 duel needle air gauges one gauge for front one for back orange needle for right and black for left and you just pump the bags to a pressure tapping the buttons its very easy and can be done real fast once you know how you like it i had a 5 gal air tank that would do 4 full car up and downs before i had to wait for the air to pump back up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 as for leveling all most people do is buy 2 duel needle air gauges one gauge for front one for back orange needle for right and black for left and you just pump the bags to a pressure tapping the buttons its very easy and can be done real fast once you know how you like it That sounds a lot better than having variable resistors on lca's and letting electronics do it. I would rather do it manually. Who cares if it takes a bit more flicking switches, it's mean. Hmm, how late is too late to turn back on a project car haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 you can set up mechnical height contol valves. easily over ridden too, for manual control. and puts height to same level when you whack load in/more people/less people/take a dump doesn't need to be mega complex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Yea mine was on switches with gauges, with decent size lines and allot of weight in the front of my car it was a cunt to get sweet. Sure once you had it sorted you were fine, but you could never let anyone drive it for fear they would drop it on the road (even though they shouldn't be adjustable while moving). A electronic controller is not a prerequisite but it sure makes for a nice solution if you can afford abit more $$. In a car that can seat up to 8 trust me it was a cunt to get level every time we had passengers. Cam a electronic solution is probably going to be even easier to setup than that mechanical one, all that turns people off is the $$. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Did you have yours pumping and dumping quite fast Spence? Could you run a restrictor on either inlet or outlet to allow for finer adjustment? ie not bump switch and all the airs gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Restriction on the outlet definitely would have slowed it down But seriously switches are pretty gay, the whole idea for me is having a low car that can get over shit and go abit higher for highway cruising. Plus the best thing in a wagon is being able to compensate for load, you not only can keep the car level but you get a firmer "spring" rate to compensate. Playing with switches at every speed bump or driveway gets old pretty fast, leave that shit to mini trucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoBilly Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 the bigger the air line and the closer the valves are to each bag the faster and better control if you want to slow a fast system down just get some air taps and put them in the line and half turn them off that restricts the flow slow and stedy what you need to do a set up fittings 4 air bags 8 valves 4x 2way switchs 8 relays air tanks get some mint ones at the truck wreckers air hose - bout $2M and a way to get air in you tank eletric compresser or make one out of a air con pump 2x duel needle gauges 1 air pressure gauge (this is only if you want to know how much air is left in your tank) problems that you face air leaks less joins the less leaks you can have some bags and valves made in usa so when you get fittings you find the thred is different metric or imperal this was the worst nightmare for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 So keen to slam this shit in the criz. What's the go with doing wishbone suspension? Are they just the hollow bags so the shocks can still fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 na dude they wont follow the same plane of motion, on a criz you need to cut the fuck out of the spring cup in the chassis and weld in your top plate. Mod the lower arm, then make a external shock mount. Come have a look at my chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Ah ok, yeah I do recall you talking about it in the past but wasn't really listening. Yeah will check it out. You weren't even running front shocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Spencer, tell me why I should not put bags in my Corona. It would solve all of my clearance issues and probably save in fines / trouble with police. Drive nicer, go lower, probably handle better. Probably make it worth more to someone too. Only down side I can see is the $$ of initially purchasing the items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Spencer, tell me why I should not put bags in my Corona.It would solve all of my clearance issues and probably save in fines / trouble with police. Drive nicer, go lower, probably handle better. Probably make it worth more to someone too. Only down side I can see is the $$ of initially purchasing the items. I'm going to answer myself after Alistar sending me a link to LVVTA... You have to meat a shit load of requirements of driving conditions, like it cant be driven while at full low. Cant operate while driving. Cant lift and lower individual wheels. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/Ch6-HCTM-airbags-hydraulics.pdf Pretty much makes it 1000 times harder because you have to implement a whole lot of crap to stop it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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