Dusty Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 The dumpy doesn't look so bad from a height as you only really see the tip, its still not quite right though. Springs: Old vs new front on the right. New vs old springs by Dustybike, on Flickr Test fit with 60mm tophats was allright. think 65 - 70mm will be perfect. The black ring is a 20mm spacer to raise the collars as they were hitting on the inside top of the front a arm. I need to offset the tophats as well to stop it. Test fit by Dustybike, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 15, 2011 Author Share Posted December 15, 2011 Soooo put the oil lines for the turbo on and did a compression test. dry: 135, 120, 130, 175 wet: 160, 155, 185, 200 and it was blowing a mist of something out the inlet of #4 with the tester on it. Not a great result pretty much hoping its just the head that's fucked. Will try and get hold of a bp head else just see if it runs. also pulled the front camber in as much as i could on the front and put cert wheels on. doesn't rub anywhere. stoked. worlds ugliest tophats: Tophats 1 by Dustybike, on Flickr Tophats 2 by Dustybike, on Flickr Tophats 3 by Dustybike, on Flickr With the fronts bottomed out it has room for more drop. Also nicely avoids where it was hitting on the top a-arm. Theyl go get welded tomorrow. might actually have suspension this weekend! Will try and finish the exhaust tomorrow. hoping repco or supershit sell stiff exhaust mounts. Otherwise need to get intercooler piping and need to find coolant hoses that will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 hoping repco or supershit sell stiff exhaust mounts. BNT sell Nolethane Simota ones. Can look into pricing and organising discounted ones for you at your local branch if you wish. But they arnt going to be cheap. Car looks so dope, fabrication on the exhaust is awesome. Its going to suck tho when your laying down tread and you start blowing diffs, they can be a tad fragile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 Exhaust is almost done. would be closer if the welder wasn't such a cunt. Exhaust 1 by Dustybike, on Flickr Exhaust 3 by Dustybike, on Flickr Exhaust 2 by Dustybike, on Flickr Exhaust downpipe by Dustybike, on Flickr Fuck yeah mandrel bends for wastegate I ended up getting mounts from repco. theyre not super stiff but theyre better than the old ones. I was reading on solomiata and said they like to break. Ill have to look into it more as i want something that can handle more power down the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punkoutnz Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 I take it you're running the stock 1600 diff then? Look into the 1800 diff from the later model. MX5mart has a kit you can buy with all the subframe that bolts in. Goes from a 6 inch to 7 inch diff (most chicks will tell you it's that inch that makes all the difference). Plus you get the benefit of a torsion LSD. It's basically what I plan to do in the not too distant future. Also slap in the 1800 brake package while you're at it and you'll have yourself one mint set of brakes with a damn strong drive line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 torsen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Intercooler pipe cold side by Dustybike, on Flickr Intercooler pipe hot side by Dustybike, on Flickr IC piping. The paint is the high temp shit, Iv finished the exhaust and painted it including the polished tip. it looks well less shit in a way. need to finish the cold side intercooler piping just the bov pipe to weld on and find a bung for the iat sensor. one more coolant line to go, intake mani and fuel rail is on just need to make a blockoff plate for where the idle control lived. Rear camber arms arrived. ill get them in when i can. Tophats are getting welded so hopefully tomorrow or thursday for them. Would like to make it start tomorrow. The 1.8 diff is probabily the easiest option. If the torsen in them is anything like the 1.6 its shit useless though which means getting a decent lsd and i really dont want to spend on things im going to have to replace later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mixmasterlex Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 1.6 is viscous, and shit. 1.8 is much better lsd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Torsen is still shit for d1s (if thats what you are building it for ) you have to go to aftermarket mechanical lsd/fc diff swap into 1.8 Torsen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Have Torsen in FD, shit for sideways action, works OK for burnouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Torsen is still shit for d1s (if thats what you are building it for ) you have to go to aftermarket mechanical lsd/fc diff swap into 1.8 Torsen. In before "Torsen is Mechanical" By Mechanical he means clutch type Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Lol. Yeh thats what I meant. Edit: actually I meant a non torsen mechanical lsd. Clutch or cone type centre etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 I had looked into it and 2ways arnt to pricey considering. Ill just have to look into it more. Though ill most probably go 1.8 diff. wired in the cas today and had a go at starting it. left the ic piping off for good measure. shot flames out the intake a couple times and watched it flow the wrong way. checked the timing and it was way out. i had timed it up to 2 dots on the cam gears not the I and E as i was supposed to. So fixed that and had another try and it fired up though only for a second as the intake is prettymuch WOT. so pretty stoked should have it driving ish tommorow. Also rechecked the compressions: 135, 140, 150, 155 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 This is looking cool. Nice work all round. You know that these motors time up back to front? The E mark on the intake cam to the pointer on the block and the I on the exhaust cam. I'm back to work on my MX-Anglia after seeing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punkoutnz Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 This is looking cool. Nice work all round.You know that these motors time up back to front? The E mark on the intake cam to the pointer on the block and the I on the exhaust cam. Found that out the hard way! Royal PITA that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 I looked it up in the service manual and it showed those marks. Of course mine didnt have them. Timed it to two marks on the top of the front cover. ill take a pic tommorow. It lives! Put a block off plate on for the iac and started up. adjusted the idle screw and idles nicely. The timing belt was sitting to far back on the cams so had to take it all apart again, turns out the back of the cam sprocket? was worn so sat back a little further. made up a spacer out of a washer that was around. sort of horey but it seems ok. just now the crank pulley sits a little forward of the coolant and alternator pulleys. If they start poping off ill so something about it. untill then. exhaust is all bolted up and my god it was a pain in the ass to do. with the final coolant line for the heater running along the exhaust side there is no room what so ever. also the heater lines and turbo oil line run far to close to the exhaust so im sure i can enjoy melted pipe in the future. intercooler lines are finished, the BOV doesnt seem to open though i havent put boost against it yet. everything is pretty much finished just need to tune it. Suspension in tomorrow and hopefully drive home ha pics n shit tomorrow probably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 This is running megasquirt isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 27, 2011 Author Share Posted December 27, 2011 Yeah megasquirt 2 put the rear camber arms in. took me 2.5hours just for the right hand side to get it back to low. turns out the sway bar links were bottoming out so i shortened them sway bar links by Dustybike, on Flickr and left hand side with everything in. though it still needs more grinding and welding. Rear shock n a arm by Dustybike, on Flickr Got all my suspension in and wound it up to what seemed ok. got it all ready to drive home at 10:30. then it didnt start. for the first time ever. the starter teeth arnt engaging with the flywheel sometimes i think.. Got it going though and went for a little drive. wasnt great but still. found out about where to low is as i pulled over and with a slightly curved road it scrapes the fuck out of the bash plate. It had a bit of a miss on first start but its gotten a lot worse so i need to figure out whats going on, raise it a bit and tune. also water leaks from the heater pipes, oil leak from the turbo feed pipe, i need to fix the wastegate exhaust pipe as it doesnt fit on quite right and i cant get at the back bolt and the worlds slowest response bov. shit to do but ill get there.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Was still missing baddly yesterday but not under acceleration so took it for a little drive. had the wastgeate line running to the wrong hole though so it pulled pretty hard. Today i checked the leads and regapped the sparkplugs, got to #4 and it was soked so replaced the injector. miss has sort of gone away. still a little stumble now and then but not to bad. put the wastegate in the right bit and went for a little thrash. god it feels good to drive it again. goes pretty good even on only 7psi. cant wait for more though. Bigger injectors are on their way. ill take it back to work tomorrow and raise it a bit as atm i scrape like hell on a slightly cambered road and this is new zealand so thats prettymuch everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k08dUGO ... e=youtu.be http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlIG_ttf ... AAAAAAABAA Cracked the sump, ran it dry, seized the engine. Call bp by Dustybike, on Flickr Old bash plate by Dustybike, on Flickr looks like a stone got between the plate and sump and has put a small crack in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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