xsspeed Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Should leave it up to the professionals. This imo Without knowing too much about the running in/tuning process myself I would say err on the side of caution. Would suck a fat one if it all went awol on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 I been talking to a few people & tuners, know roughly where the AFR's should be for the run in, know that in theory I should run 0-5 psi for first 500kms, then 5-10 for 2nd 500kms, then 20psi or more after the run it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Things that I'd be asking would be: If AFR's were out do you know how to edit the fuel map for ecu? How will you limit boost to those figures? I imagine you will need different fuel maps for different boost levels? Can you resist urge to do a skid? Thats where I reckon I'd come unstuck tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Things that I'd be asking would be:If AFR's were out do you know how to edit the fuel map for ecu? YES How will you limit boost to those figures? ECU has a boost cut function / EBC I imagine you will need different fuel maps for different boost levels? Can re-tune using laptop Can you resist urge to do a skid? NO Thats where I reckon I'd come unstuck tbh Plus, with a wideband with display unit on it full time you would know if it was leaning out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted April 24, 2010 Author Share Posted April 24, 2010 So fitted new plugs & had a play around with it yesterday, finally got it to Idle sweet & it is no longer chucking massive amounts of fuel out of the exhaust. Also got around to hooking up the gearbox & ABS loom under the car. Fixed a couple of oil leaks that were comming from fittings that wern't quite tight enough. So this week I'll put the front cross member back in, mount the AST on it, rip out the radiator as theres a pin sized hole in it. Get the final intercooler pipe tigged up. Re assemble & then I just need to save up for a dyno tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Next step is to: Find a manual accelerator bracket (somehow I ended up with an auto one..), Wire in the wideband Figure out what to do with the fuel tank vent Tighten up wastegate V bands as they are leaking Tig up pin hole in radiator Tig up final intercooler pipe Rebuild left rear adjustible Lip front factory guards Replace Gearbox & Diff oils Put the interior back in / new 6s & 6x9s Replace waterpump & new alternator - WP pulleys Get Turbo timer & wire in Get Apexi RSM & Wire in Get Apexi AVC-R & Wire in Bleed Brakes Mount Boost Gauge in A piller Mount Wideband in A piller Purchase & mount Oil Temp gauge in A piller Bleed Power Steering Dyno tune Cert Wof Reg Run in... Still a long way untill she's road worthy. Picked up an Apexi AVC-R (Boost Controller) off Sentra in the weekend, this is 90% plumbed and wired in, only decided where to mount it last night, just needs a quick tidying up of the wires to the control unit & she's good to go. Bought a 3 gauge A piller mount, A bit rice for my liking but I need it for the Boost & Wideband, also decided that I'll also get an Oil Temp gauge sometime in the future. Just waiting on a couple of small things, then will take a day off work and get the I/C pipe sorted. Once that's done, I can take it for a dodgy road tune Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 I been talking to a few people & tuners, know roughly where the AFR's should be for the run in, know that in theory I should run 0-5 psi for first 500kms, then 5-10 for 2nd 500kms, then 20psi or more after the run it. Wastegate spring is 6psi, so this is the minimum I can run for the run in tune, should be alright. Going to limit myself to 18psi max, as I don't want to overstress the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted June 6, 2010 Author Share Posted June 6, 2010 KE25: FD: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share Posted July 9, 2010 Had it running sans intercooler piping last time I was over in hamilton. Running at an afr of 10.8:1 or richer, hopefully will get last intercooler pipe sorted tomorrow. Once that's done it will be ready for a basic road tune, then Dyno tune when money allows. On a side note, have been offered to swap this for an RX8 with once it's dyno tuned - the guy is a car dealer who wants to do a couple more things to it before it goes for a cert.. Tempted although havn't sighted the car yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EURON8 Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 Had it running sans intercooler piping last time I was over in hamilton. Running at an afr of 10.8:1 or richer, hopefully will get last intercooler pipe sorted tomorrow. Once that's done it will be ready for a basic road tune, then Dyno tune when money allows.On a side note, have been offered to swap this for an RX8 with once it's dyno tuned - the guy is a car dealer who wants to do a couple more things to it before it goes for a cert.. Tempted although havn't sighted the car yet. Unless its a turbo 8 like one i wanted to buy then dont. I took a mildy modified 8 for a burn when i had my batty and its just not as much fun aye. And my batty was factory-ish enginewise , not a bridgeturbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rot808 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 unless its rolling body swaps, then it might be a different story Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 All the pieces are at the workshop, just need to head back over to Hamilton, put the last intercooler pipe on & road tune the bish Yea, 8s are a little gutless, but keep in mind I've been driving a 4age for the last two years. Will keep the Bat for awhile yet, mate is in no rush to swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 I was talking to a chap down here about the RX8 and how they were, he said "slow" even the fancy supercharged(?) kit thing he had on the one he was driving was average as all hell. Nice car but nothing special. Looked choice though with subtle kit, etc. However. Nothing on the seven with the same, just newer, heavier & slower. Why bother, I say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mixmasterlex Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 8's are sexy as fuck though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 About two years ago, I claimed they wouldn't age badly. I was incorrect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 I was talking to a chap down here about the RX8 and how they were, he said "slow" even the fancy supercharged(?) kit thing he had on the one he was driving was average as all hell. Nice car but nothing special. Looked choice though with subtle kit, etc. However. Nothing on the seven with the same, just newer, heavier & slower. Why bother, I say. The Renesis engine doesn't respond well to modifications. And the RX8 is heavy. But I like them, and that's good enough for me. Hoping to get over to Hamilton next weekend & put the piping on. And if the guy with the laptop & tuning software are available I may be able give it a base road tune depending on how the leg cast > clutch pedal relationship works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 Went over this weekend & got it pretty much complete. Everything to do with the engine is finished Decided against road tuning, no wof or reg is $600 in fines, and for that amount of money I can get a basic dyno tune. Having a bit of a clutch issue, think the slave is leaking, but ran out of time to investigate fully. Now I just need to work out who can dyno tune it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLAWLES Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 markus @ m and m motorsport in tga good cunt and know how to tune everything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted July 25, 2010 Author Share Posted July 25, 2010 Cheers, looking more at the dedicated rotary tuners: CBR, Rotamax etc. Need cash first though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 speedsource in warkworth has a very good reputation for tuning rotaries fwiw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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