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low n slows mk1 2door


d.p.n.s

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  • 2 weeks later...
So when are you bringing it up next anyway?

Um pass, I wish I wrote down a list of things to fix on the day.

Moving into our new house in 3 weeks so trying to not take on to much and create more unnecessary stress but would be nice to nail some of the stuff over next few nights.

Of the top of my head

- Fix diff bung leak

- Heavier oil switch

- Wheel alignment

- Re make turbo oil return with braided line (which involves removing sump so was thinking off wings + baffle at same time) need to check if it was just the dip stick not being in properly that caused the leak then might leave as is for now.

- Re doing the dip stick with threaded bung at end.

- Re mount computers relays so they cant be kicked by passenger

- bigger washers to battery box as per scrutineering's recommendation.

- Check sizes of master cylinders to get the bias adjusting a little better. Think the lines might need flipping.

- Tighten up revision mirrors

- Radiator overflow bottle

- oil catch tank is leaking at a joint (replace with braided?) filled up with 500mls oil which seems like quite a bit?

- vent cam cover from two holes instead of one being blanked.

- re mount extinguisher so can reach it from seating position.

- big shift light, and fix the interference my current tacho is getting or calibrate it/read instructions.

Nothing to major really

Want to find another Fe3 engine for dummying up sump and stuff on and and having a bit of a back up bigger better engine eventually. Current settup seemed to handle a fair beating on the limiter however.

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This

- vent cam cover from two holes instead of one being blanked.

Will fix this

- Re doing the dip stick with threaded bung at end.

Sump should have no pressure so shouldnt be trying to pop dippy out. If you make it so dipstick is sealed and cant come out and you still have pressurised crankcase then oil will find somewhere else to getout probably worse causing damage.

Gaz

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Go to a place like Norgren or SMC (both in Petone/Seaview) and they will have those pushlok fittings in stock.

The problem is that clear hose most probably isn't made for those style fittings - they are meant to be used with nylon tubing.

I assume you could get a small offcut of the correct size nylon tubing in white and likely you'll still be able to see the level cos the white nylon is kinda semi transparent (like frosted glass)

Just take a sample of the pushlock fitting in and they'll be able to determine the thread and tubing size you need.

PS: you need a proper tubing cutter to cut the nylon tube totally square so it fits properly in the pushlok fitting - I have one if you need it.

If you want it in the next couple of weeks while I'm away its the black norgren labelled thing sitting in the tool trolley on the right of my main toolbox at Pinkys..

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Yeah they do them in M6, M8 etc etc (also do some imperial sizes as well) so it won't be a problem to get something to fit.

(I have an M8 tap in the 5th or 6th drawer down in my rollcab if you need that also)

Just make sure that the nylon tube you get is the correct one cos I think metric threaded ones take metric tubing and imperial take imperial..

They will leak if you get the wrong one.. ie: 5/16th tubing does not work in 8mm IIRC

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Kind of keen to fold up one of these;

oilcatchcan.jpg

oilcatchcan3.jpg

oilcatchcan2.jpg

oilcatchcanw.jpg

then weld on some proper braided line male fittings on the cam cover and reservior so that it eliminates any possability of it leaking again. and grab some of these fittings you speak of KK and slap them on also.

Seem to remember someone on here being fairly onto it about catch tanks and from distant memory saying they should be baffled something like the one above and that the typical basic cylinder ones are rubbish.

Should also probably try not re do everything on my car and just use the darn thing.

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singlecatchcansetup.jpg

or

dualcatchcansetup.jpg

And yeah baffled ftw! Otherwise a lot of the vapor can get sucked from the fitting from the cam cover/block etc straight into the line going back to the intake.

On my Subaru I ran a can the same as the pic you posted but without the ricer filter, but I sealed it up well and modded a fitting so it was like this sort of thing

dc3revbsect.jpg

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