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low n slows mk1 2door


d.p.n.s

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Oh hi Oldschool helpdesk

Trying to sort smoking engine for what i suspect is a poked turbo

Just removed it and found this oil stain on the bottom. would this confirm it to be stuffed? Not much / any oil down dump pipe just allot of carbon from running rich.

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Also has a bit of oil / gunk in the plenum

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pulling everything apart for checking over

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Anyone know what the thread for the water line to the turbo is? wanting to do braided lines as the rubber ones have gotten a bit hot by looks. NPT?

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I'm guessing its stuffed? Or should I be doing other checks to make sure its nothing more serious? compression reads good, should i do a leak down test?

Also found water line had a decent kink in it that would have restricted cooling.

Also put to light oil in engine which i need to change which might have leaked through rings?, however was smoking prior to oil change.

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Opened her up and houston we got oil!

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And some exhaust wheel bits missing :oops:

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Another possible cause of failure, because its a ball bearing turbo it requires lower oil flow so I'm guessing the previous engine builder welded the oil banjo fitting to restrict flow. Were can i buy a proper restrictor fitting from?

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Play in turbo wheel is no different to when I first got it also.

Guess just get another turbo clean everything out, do some new lines and hopefully shes happy again :P

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my rb25 turbo did the same so just binned it. i got my restrictor from enzed, they have a few sizes thatll just fit in ya braied line, look like a litttle olive. ive gone back to journal bearing so no need for one. that bolt beside the water one is just a long locating bolt from memory, you can pull it out for a look if you want. time for a new turbo then! And the exhaust wheel bits missin look pretty fresh? did you do that pullin it to bits? shitty ceramic wheels.

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Cool cheers owl.

Mabie i should just plonk a journal turbo in there for now? and run no /same restrictor to get rid of oil leak problem that will no doubt happen again? Is there much / any difference in performance? Just struggling to find a NEO rb turbo but seems to be allot of the standard ones around.

Will be going to some hybrid / aftermarket turbo later on any way.

Your right re chips looking fresh thats strange, i just un did bolts and it slid appart so not sure how i managed to damage it if it was from dis assembly.

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You got T2 flange? Run a t28 either BBor non.

BB $1 reserve

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 819959.htm

Or bite the bullet and go for a decent new turbo.... you choose the model but this is about the price new.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 788932.htm

Rebuilt unsure of model

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/SearchR ... uggested=0

Gaz

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as gaz says get a t2 manifold and stick a t28 on it. seen a couple of s15 turbos on trade me cheapish, bb though, or get a gtir journal bearing one, alot easier and cheaper to rebuild. rb25 turbos are odd ball pieces of shit, specially if you want to abuse it like you do on the track.

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Cheers fullas

I think rd's are T3? Agree they seem to not be very resilient turbos.

If I change turbo I will require a new tune wont I? If not would be keen to plonk a T28 on.

Quite happy with how its running power wise and responsiveness at moment so was thinking of slapping this in for now guy has offered it to me for 300? and do a proper 1.5mm oil restrictor and run better water lines and try get a bit more life out of her. for 300 bucks seems worth a shot for sake of 800 ish re tune?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 638023.htm

Still trying to get handling sorted and driver noobnes out of the way before I put this stronger engine and bigger engine turbo cam gear box computer etc together hence don't really want to go to crazy with current settup if can avoid it? so if i can just replace turbo and get another 4 events out of it would be happy. or is that retarded and doing things twice

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Buy turbo pictured for above reasons, seems cheap.

For new engine run T2 flange or evo flange. A TD05/6 on your engine would prob be mint and they not too pricey, $800ish rather than $1800 for the Garrett Gt series, not a BB turbo tho, shouldn't matter much in race application anyways. Infact journal bearing is prob better for you application as then you can rebuild it yourself whn the time comes for minimal cost.

Gaz

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  • 1 month later...

Russell - I applaud your work man - this engine bay is totally looking the business.. Looks TOP FUCKING NOTCH!! 3 thumbs up!

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Take care with any oil spills around the engine I'm concerned with the amount of header wrap on that exhaust - it holds spilt oil like a sonofabitch and is the hottest part of your engine and therefore the prime spot for fire to start.. I believe there are proper turbo blankets out there which are more suitable.. Also you can ceramic coat the exhaust next time it is out and it works as good/better than header wrap for insulation..

Pop out your LH headlight and route your inlet piping to the cavity - cool air = yum

Some kind of stone shielding around your cambelt would be good - at least for the bottom third (unless you have an undertray that is)

Also you're missing an oil cap... LOL

I'm very impressed though man - VERY

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Yeah bro more than welcome, Aiden will be coming up also so will be interesting what times that drunken sailer can get around in, not sure if im keen to go passanger with him driving, think he would make me sqeel like a school girl.

You wouldnt have a VID camera by any chance?

Cheers for comments KK taken on board :) Oil cap got left at welders DOW. And fresh air box is deff on the list.

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Yup stuffs gone bad! Only made two laps taking it easy ish warming up and box went pop, lots of teeth feel out when we let the oil out so shes gone burgers. but good thing is car was flying! Every things in 100s of bits in a frantic rush to get her ready for OS nats now to work out what needs doing to get the new fancy gearbox working DOW! Hadn't planned on doing for a while, Will report back later tonight but its going to be a mission.

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