Roman Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Nah it's noisy enough without blowing out all of the muffler packing too. When I get a different ECU for it, playing around with launch control stuff will be on the cards for sure. Although I'm not overly keen on hitting the drags too much as it's a bit hard on the drivetrain compared to other things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 just save up for a good link dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Yeah it's the next logical thing to do really. I dont think I really want to do any other physical mods to the motor. I'm quite happy that I can get 7l per 100km but also have a fun car to drive. Going to bigger cams or whatever is probably going to throw the economy out the window.If this motor blows up then I'll try find a low kms manual Altezza engine with the exhaust side VVTI as well, 10hp for 'free' and should get same or better mileage too. They're cheap now, but were impossible to find when I first bought the MR2 beams motor (And it was originally meant to go into an MR2, haha) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 just save up for a good link dave Okay so I've been giving ECU choice a bit of thought over the last while. As there are a still a few niggling issues with using the factory ECU, and then if I went to an aftermarket one I'd want to get something with a lot of extra scope for nerdy datalogging, extra features etc. So the Megasquirt V3 or whatever with heaps of inputs and outputs looked like a good option. But before diving into that I downloaded the MS tuning software on my PC, and got familiar with it. Seems all good. But then I upgraded my PC, and I cant get the fecking thing working again. Also doing a bit more reading it seems about 50/50 odds between getting things running alright with megasquirt, or having a complete nightmare of a time and being out in the cold in terms of any support. The fact that the tuning software doesnt want to work anymore didnt inspire confidence in the rest of it. I tried reinstalling JRE etc but no luck. I dont really want to assemble anything myself either, so looked into the cost of a preassembled one... $1600 or so by the time it gets here. Cant remember if that was with or without tax. So looking at the difference between that and a link, it's not that much more of a stretch to get something that's going to give me so much less of a ball ache. So decided to bite the bullet and have forked out for a G4+ Xtreme and an LC2 wideband. I cry when I think about the cost vs potential HP / rpm gain, but it's more that it's something interesting for me to setup and tinker with. Factory ECU tries to run on stoich at cruising too for sake of Catalytic converter, so will be able to lean it out a bit more and make it a bit more thrifty to drive perhaps too. It's got so many inputs and outputs, good datalogging etc which will keep my nerdy tendencies satisfied for a long time yet! Something new for me to learn about in this coming year. Should be here some time next week. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 LOL, worst reasoning ever Roman Dave, but good job on junking that shitty stock ECU. Make sure to install a 2 step button. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Factory ECU is pretty awesome for most things, but just cant get around the rev limit.So yeah, if going aftermarket definitely no reason not to setup launch control etc There's a basemap for the link already for my engine that sets up VVTI, coilpacks and all that other junk.I havent found anyone who's running MS on a beams motor, so dunno what to do if I get stuck. Vs lots of link installs by heaps of people already. I dont have the electronic smarts or the patience to spend ages figuring things out with an oscilliscope or whatever. If I converted my engine to an Altezza loom there's a version of the Link where you can just open up the factory ECU case, replace the guts with a link and then it plugs into factory loom. Was considering this but it doesnt have as many inputs and outputs as the 'normal' one. So went with that, as the wiring looks easy enough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Yea, no1 reason for shit not going well is wiring, so make sure you do that well and you will be in the money. Grab some china braid, a set of weatherpaks/ any good quality automotive connectors, heat shrink, and a quality set of crimpers and you will end up with a super nice looking loom. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 My engine loom is staying as is, no need to reinvent the wheel when it's all already there. I cant remember where from, but you can get an adaptor board that has the plug shapes of the standard ECU. So I only need to make an adaptor that goes between the link ECU and that adaptor board, then the standard engine loom plugs into that. Keeps it simple / can revert to factory ECU if need be for whatever reason / wiring loom ends up very short with all connections in the same location which makes troubleshooting anything easy. There's a bunch of spare pins on the factory ECU plugs too, and I've got an Altezza loom here which has unique wire colours which I can use. So if I add any other stuff it's mostly a case of pushing already crimped connections into the plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 ERMAHGODROMANDAYFE! DO THIS PROPERLY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Twisting wires + masking tape wont cause problems for a wideband signal right? Or does it need shielding? I've got some tinfoil here too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 On my car I got hold of an old bung ECU and a electrician buddy stripped the connector off it and made an adaptor loom using that and the Link wiring harness so that it was "plug and play" with the factory engine loom. Then I hooked wideband wiring straight to the Link loom and done. Managed to sqeeze all of that wiring in under the dash so you'd never know. Just had the USB cable running up to the glove box for easy access. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Cool yep, that's pretty much exactly the plan! But you can buy the same thing from somewhere without having to yank an ECU apart. I just forget where at the moment. But in my mind it's the best option - Toyota factory wiring is good, plugs are good, etc etc. So may as well keep as much of it as I can. It means I can design and assemble and test the loom out of the car, as it will only be ~300mm or so long if that, and all just goes between one thing and the other. Any wiring faults are contained within that area, rather than spread across the whole thing... And I dont have to change a single thing in the engine bay. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Ahhh here we go... http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diybob-breakout-adapter-nippondenso-122-pin-p-537.html A bit spend though for what it is I guess! Maybe butchering spare ECU is the way to go haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 I thought there was a plugin g4 for the beams? Confuse Edit Oh and I enjoy reading your updates Keep it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 G4+ Xtreme, Flash guy! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 I heard he got that ECU so when he goes back to individual throttles he can run some outboard injection. /its actually for when he does that K swap. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Yeah it was the 8 injector drivers that were the main reason to get the Xtreme over the Storm. That and the extra inputs/outputs mean I can datalog a whole lot more about the car itself, not just the engine. When thinking about the price difference over the course of a year or two, it's not too much. But if I bought something that didnt have enough stuff for what I want, I'd probably end up wishing I just spent the extra couple hundred bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I'm sure that reducing the arming voltage will solve your problems, the zero crossing is still in the correct place. So long as you have good wiring (and low noise) then it will work with a very low arming voltage. I have noticed that the voltage produced by VR sensors is quite dependent on temperature also. Lower temps mean lower voltage produced so if you set it near the current minimum just beware that you may need to change it in winter time. What MAP sensor did you end up using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Yeah I was cranking the engine a lot when I was trying to get master fuel sorted, and as battery was slowly getting flatter it seemed harder and harder to start.It was hard to tell whether I was heading in the right direction with the fuel table because I think the plugs were fouling so I couldnt tell much from the wideband.After recharging the battery it started a lot easier, and funnily enough the base maps master fuel table worked best lol. But still had that 1700rpm issue.I used a Toyota 3SFE Map sensor, it calibrated fine by using two known KPA/voltage values then calibrating against the onboard barometer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts