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Having a look at trademe https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/paint/listing-2338572273.htm?rsqid=2f1a4504d7504589b0d108d8834d744b-005

This guy states he can put pearl colours into colorpak cans. Is it possible to achieve a nice finish with cans?

Another question, is plastic adhesion promoter something that is routinely used?

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2 hours ago, xsinclairx said:

Having a look at trademe https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/paint/listing-2338572273.htm?rsqid=2f1a4504d7504589b0d108d8834d744b-005

This guy states he can put pearl colours into colorpak cans. Is it possible to achieve a nice finish with cans?

Another question, is plastic adhesion promoter something that is routinely used?

Depends what you consider "nice".

Yes, we use adhesion promoter all the time and recommend it on any bare/raw plastics.

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  • 2 weeks later...

FullSizeRender.thumb.jpg.ff19f2fa3cfec28bcaeb71b478cbbdfe.jpg

Looking for paint to protect cast iron callipers from rusting, went into Spraystore here in Chch and they suggested standard enamel will handle the temps fine.

This appeals as we can get a colour mixed thats not bright red/yellow (ideally looking for dark grey)

Can anyone confirm the temp limits of standard enamel?

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On 15/10/2019 at 22:04, NickJ said:

FullSizeRender.thumb.jpg.ff19f2fa3cfec28bcaeb71b478cbbdfe.jpg

Looking for paint to protect cast iron callipers from rusting, went into Spraystore here in Chch and they suggested standard enamel will handle the temps fine.

This appeals as we can get a colour mixed thats not bright red/yellow (ideally looking for dark grey)

Can anyone confirm the temp limits of standard enamel?

Get em clean as you can and 2k epoxy them.  usually grey/some you can tint darker if you're really fussy. 

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4 minutes ago, 187inc said:

Get em clean as you can and 2k epoxy them.  usually grey/some you can tint darker if you're really fussy. 

Soaked in white vinegar, scrubbed, grit blast and then etch primed and enameled today. when I ordered the paint I couldn't be arsed with mixing and having left overs so just got a few rattle cans made up.

Pic is of prime only, went with a dark grey and it looks sweet :)

IMG_7939.jpg.001e6775dd674e88a4143d7fd52368b4.jpg

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Yeah wheel guard area against engine bay initially. Has previously had a brake leak by the looks so stripping everything out that is loose / peeling off and plan to epoxy the bare metal and deaden over the top of the whole lot.

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On the topic of epoxy primer and underseal(ish) products (TL:DR at bottom):

I am lucky enough to have a shed at work specifically for sandblasting. The guy who runs it said he would sand blast/prime the tray of my ute (Datsun project) for free, but wasn't sure when he would get to it. No worries, I have no life so can pick it up whenever and then immediately coat it in Raptor Liner i have purchased already. . 

Fast forward to last weekend, down in Auckland for a friends birthday for the whole weekend, get a call from work Sat morning saying it's all done and primed in 2k epoxy. Winner winner, except I can't pick it up until Sunday arvo. Got it home, ran out of sun Sunday and after work Monday, finally sprayed with Raptor Liner yesterday arvo, knocked off at 2:30 and did it in the heat of the afternoon. Put it on thick, so only had enough to cover 2/3 of the tray, used more than I thought I would.

Broke until payday/today, so ordered some more Raptor today, but unsure if it will get here by the weekend (fingers crossed). 

All the info I have read regarding epoxy primer says to coat it within 7 days. If the Raptor isn't here by Saturday, am I going to be screwed? Do I need to find the data sheet for the exact primer he used?

TL:DR what is the absolute longest I can leave the epoxy primer before coating it (dry stored in the shed)? Will 7 vs 10 days matter (spraying Sat vs Mon).   

TIA.

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Epoxy primer should be legit, mine has sat for months and still looks good as new. Pretty sure it seals really well and is hardy enough to protect surfaces till you're ready for top coats. Just might want to give it a light scuff up for the liner to key into.

Unless it's being left outside in the weather anyway.

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26 minutes ago, Bling said:

Epoxy primer should be legit, mine has sat for months and still looks good as new. Pretty sure it seals really well and is hardy enough to protect surfaces till you're ready for top coats. Just might want to give it a light scuff up for the liner to key into.

Unless it's being left outside in the weather anyway.

Have been scuffing with a red scotchbrite metal prep pad, seems to be coarse enough to key for mechanical adhesion but not go through the epoxy. Have coated the entire underside, and a lot of the rest, so will be flipping it up the right way tonight and putting it on the chassis, then lining the top side as soon as I can.

Sounds like I hopefully wont have any worries (honestly I can't do much about the area I have already lined, that stuff ain't coming off in a hurry). 

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