Spencer Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Yup you are hearing different thing because there is different systems and methods. For the home DIY guy using 2k urethane primer, you would have done all your block work and happy with it. Then a thin coat of primer on that and let it dry, wait to dry then sand back wet with say 6/800 clean it all down and you are good to top coat. Other systems are wet coat, you done the bog and block work and you bang a "sealer" coat of primer on and then once it flashes you paint the top coat. You have to be good enough to lay the primer on nice and flat though for wet coating IMO but its a big time saver in some body shop scenarios. Then there are others where the primer has a window to coat it without sanding, the primer stays chemically "sticky" for say 24 hours where you have a window to coat it without sanding. Option 1 for most of us though, sand before top coat we are not in the business of speed and production efficiency. Wet coating works great for engine bays, under the car, interior and all that shit where a bit of peel or dust in the finish doesn't matter. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 37 minutes ago, gibbon said: Are you supposed to do any further prep between priming and topcoat? I hear it should be wet sanded but I hear it needs to be scuffed but I hear to get a topcoat on before the primer is even dried.... If its 2k high build primer then wet sand with about 400g. It'll look rubbish if you just paint right over unfinished 2k primer. Then get your surfacing primer on.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 My guess is this has been queried somewhere along the line but searching just brings up engine bays. Looking to paint the magnesium engine case for the kombi. Vht eventually falls off, what would be a better option? Epoxy or is that overkill for a block.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 At work For water cooled engines we just paint them with the same paint you do the panels in. Motors don't get that hot in the grand scheme of things. I don't imagine an air cooled engine would get any hotter really? Epoxy and a quick scuff with some scotch brite and then paint it what ever color you want will be quite sufficient 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 Yeah, they don't get too hot.. Have done blocks in enamel before and they seemed to hold up ok, my guess was epoxy trumps everything else.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 Yeah epoxy primer holds out to heat better than anything else, really want a top coat on it though. As above basically modern normal car paint (2 part epoxy and urethane) works better than any of the old school engine enamels etc. I had the fancy KBS engine enamel on a few things and oil leaks eat it and peel it off, it takes the heat fine but not engine bay fluids. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 Basic question time: what causes orange peel? How to I stop doing it? less/more paint? less/more thinners less/more air etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 Literally everything Painting in an auto shop that is too hot Improper spray gun settings Paint that isn’t mixed correctly Premature evaporation of paint thinner Spraying the paint at the wrong angle Applying too much paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Gruntfuttock Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 The concourse restoration guys go to great pains to reproduce factory orange peel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 12 minutes ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said: The concourse restoration guys go to great pains to reproduce factory orange peel... overspray on the underbody too. its a dead giveaway if theres none Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 2 hours ago, nzstato said: Basic question time: what causes orange peel? How to I stop doing it? less/more paint? less/more thinners less/more air etc Orange peel is part of painting. Some 2k color and thick high build clears can be loaded on to be smooth but if takes practice to know how much to not get runs. In the industry we flat and buff almost everything we do just because it's a quick easy way to remove bits of dust from the paint and get the repaired panel looking the same as the rest of the car More often than not the orange peel that most home painters get is from either incorrect air pressure (2.0 bar is a good all round setting)* or not putting a wet enough coat on and there isn't enough paint build up to actually self level and smooth out. A slightly wetter coat will often solve this . *not an exact setting for every gun. But just a good starting point for the home jobs with cheaper guns 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 Yup spot on, its so hard to see in the garage how thick/thin your 2K clear is going on so you need some experience to see the subtle differences in how you are applying it. Good thing is you can just cheese it on with a shit gun and still get a nice result by sanding and polish. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted September 23, 2020 Share Posted September 23, 2020 47 minutes ago, JustHarry said: Orange peel is part of painting. Some 2k color and thick high build clears can be loaded on to be smooth but if takes practice to know how much to not get runs. In the industry we flat and buff almost everything we do just because it's a quick easy way to remove bits of dust from the paint and get the repaired panel looking the same as the rest of the car More often than not the orange peel that most home painters get is from either incorrect air pressure (2.0 bar is a good all round setting)* or not putting a wet enough coat on and there isn't enough paint build up to actually self level and smooth out. A slightly wetter coat will often solve this . *not an exact setting for every gun. But just a good starting point for the home jobs with cheaper guns Thanks, I try to run 30psi (~2 bar), as you say its likely not enough paint to lay it down, I notice areas where I'm better at this. Just havent got experience to know 'enough' before risk of getting runs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Anyone know where to get epoxy primer in a spray can in NZ, or is it not a thing? Want to use it under filler, instead of just filling on straight bare metal, but cant seem to find cans of it anywhere. I dont have a spray gun, and dont need a lot. When I asked the bodyshop supply place i got the filler and paint from they recommended just etch priming it first, but the internet says thats not a good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 ive got an old tin of durepox with some dregs in it. How big of an area do you want to paint? if you have 2k hardener already i can decant it into a bottle and post it - then you can just brush it on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Yeah go buy 1L and brush it on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 1 hour ago, kws said: Anyone know where to get epoxy primer in a spray can in NZ, or is it not a thing? Want to use it under filler, instead of just filling on straight bare metal, but cant seem to find cans of it anywhere. I dont have a spray gun, and dont need a lot. When I asked the bodyshop supply place i got the filler and paint from they recommended just etch priming it first, but the internet says thats not a good idea? I buy Durepox as a 2-part from Resene Automotive (RALI) in Naenae. Have sprayed it, but mostly mix and brush for small areas as Spenno says. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 1 hour ago, tortron said: ive got an old tin of durepox with some dregs in it. How big of an area do you want to paint? if you have 2k hardener already i can decant it into a bottle and post it - then you can just brush it on Thanks, but having never done bodywork before I have nothing, so will do as below 27 minutes ago, Nominal said: I buy Durepox as a 2-part from Resene Automotive (RALI) in Naenae. Have sprayed it, but mostly mix and brush for small areas as Spenno says. And go here and buy some. Its only a small area, so bushing sounds like a good plan. Thanks lads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Where is the area? Is it going to get wet all the time or is it in a dry area? I brush on epoxy all the time (with PPE). But if I was literally never going to need it again, and the area wasn't going to be a wet area i'd probably zinc-it, then primer over that, then bog then primer then paint. Yeah I know it's not a legit as epoxy then bog then epoxy, but i've zinc-it'd shitloads of stuff I have outside and with a decent top coat i've had zero issues. Just offering up a cheaper, easier solution IMO. I see zinc-it not even top coated on galv gate frames all the time, looks fine. Is actually what I did for my gate frames, weld, zinc-it, then top coat. Haven't seen any issues with it so far. Totally depends where the repair is, haven't seen it mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 On the rail, above the front door, between top of door and roof, before the B pillar. It'll get wet with rain, but no road grime. Had been repaired before, but rusted from inside out and I popped the bog pimple and stuck the screwdriver right through. Its since been cut out and new patch welded in, but the previous repair used a couple mm bog to shape the rail properly, so ill need to bog it again since I ripped all the old bog out (and im not so flash on shaping patches). I suspect the old bog was straight onto metal as around where the rust popped out the metal on the outside was all really badly pitted too. I have zinc-it here, as well as etch and high build primers. I dont have a habit of doing body work, so chances are anything I buy will sit on the shelf until it goes off and gets thrown out, after being used once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.