yetchh Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Thanks mens.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Right lads in the know. Henkel Emer-Tan..... I have all the Rx2 panels stirpped to bare and now sitting covered in this product. Im ready in the next few weeks to epoxy prime. Have read data sheet but not clear on if I completely remove it or not. I was thinking rubbing panels down with prepsol as normal prior to paint but perhaps not with this stuff? Anyone got exp? Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 I don't know what it is but I would bare metal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Thought I should mention couldn't find rannex and the only pphoric I could find is at supercrap.. septone rust converter.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Right lads in the know. Henkel Emer-Tan..... I have all the Rx2 panels stirpped to bare and now sitting covered in this product. Im ready in the next few weeks to epoxy prime. Have read data sheet but not clear on if I completely remove it or not. I was thinking rubbing panels down with prepsol as normal prior to paint but perhaps not with this stuff? Anyone got exp? Gaz ive got no exp with that stuff but just wondering where did u get it from? im looking for some appears to good shit but apparently you can only get in 20L but idk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 The last page was excellent, thanks guys (spencer). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Its what the guys put on after the panels were acid stripped. They ask if your going to immediately coat or if it going to sit for a few weeks/months prior to painting. If not coating straight away or if it may be subject to moisture then they put this stuff over it. Gaz ive got no exp with that stuff but just wondering where did u get it from? im looking for some appears to good shit but apparently you can only get in 20L but idk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 You'll be fine man, the differences between brands/types are subtle. Some sand better, some lay down smoother (well easier to get smooth). If there are differences in adhesion etc you won't ever notice once you have 10 other coats of shit on there, it will stick well if its a actual brand. The only bad side to phosphoric acid is that you don;t want it trapped in seams, where it can reactivate and cause rust when water gets in. Otherwise don;t be scared to wash it with fuck loads of water (if its a exterior panel) don't let the product dry on the panel (keep applying if needed). The rust will vanish, just rub it down like crazy with scotch brite(with wax and grease as lube) after, you want the panel to be clean white steel before paint. Its a great method, no real draw backs, don;t use it on hardened steel. Where you say wax and grease, what type? Bees wax and bearing grease, or surf wax and lard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Where you say wax and grease, what type? Bees wax and bearing grease, or surf wax and lard? i think it's supposed to read "wax and grease remover" which is like brake cleaner but safe for painting purposes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.e.d. Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Thought I should mention couldn't find rannex and the only pphoric I could find is at supercrap.. septone rust converter.. I've been told that stuff is fine to use as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Data sheet says 60%ppc, twice speeno says wax and grease but no remover haha.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Prior to epoxy you want to use wax and grease remover. Thats what speeno is meaning. Have used septone on minor things its ok but prob better products around. Id just buy from your paint supplier if theyre good buggers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Phosporic acid shouldnt be hard to come by either. Pretty sure tergo do a rust converter and up here mitre 10 and bunnings sell it. Just need to read the labels to find out which ones use what active ingred. Most are phosphoric. I have steered clear of the ones that say they convert it to a 'primer' though and just used the acids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j.e.d. Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Rust converter I use.. ignore the 1K etch though, got that & it was the wrong stuff to use so took it back & got some 2K epoxy eurethane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Sorry what I meant man was use wax and grease remover (a mild solvent, buy lots if you are painting a bit) if you get a little container of it and dip a green scotch brite in it and polish the panel it will really make the metal glow shiny and white before paint. After you use phosphoric acid you usually get left with a pickled surface, bit of white acid and some black converted rust. I find its best for adhesion if you really polish it up after, you may have to use the converter again if you find you there is still rust around after you clean it up, that's normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Most instructions say to paint over the pickled acid, I don't agree, it's yuck. It only works if you apply it perfect and you get a nice even dull grey steel from the acid (slow acting ones like vinager and critic do this better) best to convert then sand it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 If you rinse and repeat that method you can deal to some pretty heavy corrosion on chassis and things (you can wire wheel first). Just takes lots of acid and elbow grease. For remove able panels with no real seams you can immerse them in diluted acid for excellent results. Great for bolts and shit, just not hardened ones or spring steel, they will fuck out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Yeah, got some wax and grease remover already.. both miter 10 and bunnings only had either primer types or hydrochloric types.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Had a good crack at the rust, tho I still couldn't quite get to the bottom of some of the pits, so I just primed over them. How far do you go before enough is enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 All the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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