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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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9 hours ago, kws said:

I've checked the VIRM and I think its a no, but does a side window (IE: Drivers window) have to operate for a WOF or is it OK if it is stuck up (or down)?

Nope.

 Well..   either that or the checkers didn’t bother for my mates Prelude that had wood holding the window up for several checks…

 

edit: didn’t see the next page that Rog had already replied.  

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Ok so probably dumb question but I am gonna ask it anyway as I am not sure and want to clarify. 

I see things saying don't underseal things that are going to be shown to your certifier, as they may need you to scrape it off to show repairs etc. 

I am using Raptor liner as my top coat for my Datsun 4wd, does this mean I have to take it in for a pre-check in primer? It is a possibilty, as I will be taking the cab off to be blasted and I can take it back home via the certifiers but I am just confused really. Any clarifications on this?

Also second question, regarding rego for the final product, which will be registered as a scratchbuilt. I still have both the chassis (Nissan Safari) and the body (Datsun 720) regos on hold and in my name, just in case, is this necessary? 
And I know they get thingy about tags being taken off for painting, does this still apply when a vehicle becomes scratchbuilt?

TIA 

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Not a dumb question at all

It's a different situation when its scratch built vs modified production reg on hold vs dead reg modified production and it can be confusing

 

In your case, best to check with your certifier, i think it would be a good idea to show him before you put liner on or at least take heaps of photos, especially if there are mods in that area 

Its slightly different to a repair certifier who definitely would need to see it before paint or underseal , which is what you have probably read about. Because your vehicle is "new" there is no requirement for a repair cert

 

Being scratch built there should be no problem removing the tag off the firewall as that wont be the vehicles identifier . Leave the chassis number on the chassis though, dont grind it off. Keep the reg/s on hold until the project is done and on the road, and having paperwork etc to prove you own both donors makes it clear that nothing's shady  

 

 

 

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Hey guys, quick q.. 

Ive been having issues downloading the manual online so sorry in advance for an easy one.. 

 

Fuel lines on a carb set up-full conversion. (5psi system). 

 

Can the fuel line be a low pressure hose run from the pump to the carb, mounted within the driveshaft tunnel? Or does it need to be a special type of fuel line these days? 

 

The hunter has a flat floor, no real chassis rails to tuck it next to. 

 

My plan was to have a pump mounted under the floor next to the tank, then run over the diff and along through the tunnel, tucking past the driveshaft hoop and up to the carb. P clips fitted every 300mm or less. 

 

Cheers

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Fuel line- as long as its actual fuel line that will be fine,

 

try and find good quality hose as it seems there is varying levels of quality available and some go hard and crack/perish quickly which is an extra pain when the whole fuel line is rubber  

 

As for mounting in the tunnel there is a requirement for making sure a failed drive shaft rotating in a driveshaft loop cannot contact a fuel or brake line, this appears to have been relaxed from what it used to be, you had to fit a rear loop as well when running fuel or brake lines in the tunnel  

This requirement has always puzzled me, as you cant protect the whole fuel or brake line from a broken shaft, as it depends where the shaft breaks 

I recommend running the fuel or brake lines away from the tunnel if possible for this reason  

 

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7 minutes ago, shizzl said:

Cheers @cletus.

Internal braid low pressure rubber hose OK to be run for carby applications? 

Yep as long as its purpose designed automotive fuel hose 

 

2 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

 

On the other side of the coin, my engine makes less power than a hive of bees

Only applies/applied to vehicles with a significant power increase over oe or a modified drive shaft

  

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What's the deal with modifying tow bars? My truck one sits a little high but I don't want to have it in a fixed position lower than it is. I want to replace the tongue with a 65mm box/50mm socket/receiver so it sits no lower but can have a lower towball to plug in.

Will I get in trouble if I do that? I have a big 3 phase MIG that produces the most convincing of welds...

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1 minute ago, ThePog said:

What's the deal with modifying tow bars? My truck one sits a little high but I don't want to have it in a fixed position lower than it is. I want to replace the tongue with a 65mm box/50mm socket/receiver so it sits no lower but can have a lower towball to plug in.

Will I get in trouble if I do that? I have a big 3 phase MIG that produces the most convincing of welds...

I built my own for a car, no worries. So long it's not a heavy vehicle you'll be fine.

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1 hour ago, MaxPower said:

hey I have a set of 2" drop spindles at home, I have lost the paperwork for them, is there a way to get them checked out to be fit for use in nz? are they a good way to lower a vehicle in your opinion? cheers

It gets very very difficult when you cant prove who made them, to the point where I bought a new set of spindles that had a brand name (belltech) cast into them to replace some other ones I already had (probably chassistech but I couldnt prove it 100%) 

 

They are a good way of lowering a vehicle if they have been designed correctly and you dont mind doing the supporting modifications that often go with them

 

This is what the standard says

 

20210919_214644.jpg

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