RUNAMUCK Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 2 minutes ago, cletus said: None of them are pre approved , all have to have a bump steer check done Does that go for all drop spindles/all makes of car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Yes. even pre approved complete front ends (heidts, rods by Reid etc) all have to have a bumpsteer check done you'd be surprised how many fail 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 20 minutes ago, cletus said: None of them are pre approved , all have to have a bump steer check done Thanks Clint That would be a baseline for the vehicle and then a recheck with the new stubs? Was there any issue with the belltech ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 Usually just checked with them fitted. Belltech usually are ok but I've never seen any on a later model one like yours, which has a bolt in bearing unit I think? I'd be making sure you really want spindles, as they are quite pricey, plus cert, plus bump steer check, plus they can open up a can of worms as far as tyre clearance etc I have had customers fit drop spindles because they wanted a 50mm drop but it ends up with a whole new set of problems, like the tyres can now go 50mm further up so rub on big bumps, or the spindles change the track slightly so the tyres stick out, need geometry correction to pass bump steer check, rims rub on suspension arms , bla bla bla Some of the earlier trucks are actually better off with just a spring drop if you don't want it slammed as it gets the geometry better ie the control arms are flatter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 I want to lift the chassis rails above the floorpan in my FairladyZ (260Z) for some more ground clearance. Basic thinking was get a new top-hat section folded and cut to fit the floorpan above the original ones, plug weld them in then remove the old ones at the floorpan, probably capping with some 3mm to give a bit of impact protection. At the front the new rail would go through the floorpan and fish-plate into the sides of the old rail, with a gusset to the castor arm mount. Any issue doing this as long as I can prove the new rail is stiffer than the old one? They are officially classed as floor stiffeners as they finish behind the seats and are only ~30mm deep. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 27 minutes ago, cletus said: Usually just checked with them fitted. Belltech usually are ok but I've never seen any on a later model one like yours, which has a bolt in bearing unit I think? I'd be making sure you really want spindles, as they are quite pricey, plus cert, plus bump steer check, plus they can open up a can of worms as far as tyre clearance etc I have had customers fit drop spindles because they wanted a 50mm drop but it ends up with a whole new set of problems, like the tyres can now go 50mm further up so rub on big bumps, or the spindles change the track slightly so the tyres stick out, need geometry correction to pass bump steer check, rims rub on suspension arms , bla bla bla Some of the earlier trucks are actually better off with just a spring drop if you don't want it slammed as it gets the geometry better ie the control arms are flatter Good advice. Yes my truck has the bolt in bearing unit. I like the stance of the truck as it is, not so keen on the not legal lack of travel. I think I will start with some new springs and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 New springs that are a bit stiffer to cope with less travel, some good shocks and maybe some clever trimming of the bumpstop might get it to a point where it looks the same but drives much better Is it 2wd or 4wd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 2 hours ago, BobbyBreeze said: I want to lift the chassis rails above the floorpan in my FairladyZ (260Z) for some more ground clearance. Basic thinking was get a new top-hat section folded and cut to fit the floorpan above the original ones, plug weld them in then remove the old ones at the floorpan, probably capping with some 3mm to give a bit of impact protection. At the front the new rail would go through the floorpan and fish-plate into the sides of the old rail, with a gusset to the castor arm mount. Any issue doing this as long as I can prove the new rail is stiffer than the old one? They are officially classed as floor stiffeners as they finish behind the seats and are only ~30mm deep. I can't see a problem with doing that, but you would want to discuss it with your certifier. In my opinion a good way to do it would be to do a design approval, that way if it's approved , you can give the approval to your certifier and they should be able to pass it if it's done correctly The only reason I suggest that is what you propose is not in the manual and it could be classed as a custom chassis rail , which then has to meet CCM reqs/ be 75x50x3, but that would make no sense in your application There's not much in the CCM relating to monocoque vehicles and chassis mods 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 On 10/01/2024 at 19:41, KKtrips said: Looks like the hose needs to be rotated 1/4 of a turn anticlockwise (on the square), are the hoses routed correctly? Are they the correct hoses for the vehicle? You don't want to be taking any meat off the calliper, it could be tricky to prove that it has not affected the stength of the calliper, even though a finger in the air test says it will be fine, I wouldn't. Yeah I think they are 90deg out, hoses were custom made many years ago, I can't remember who fkd up either me or the hose shop not sure how it went wrong. Plenty of length I think to put round ends on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 23 hours ago, cletus said: New springs that are a bit stiffer to cope with less travel, some good shocks and maybe some clever trimming of the bumpstop might get it to a point where it looks the same but drives much better Is it 2wd or 4wd? That is the plan. Its a 2wd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobbyBreeze Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 On 11/01/2024 at 17:37, cletus said: I can't see a problem with doing that, but you would want to discuss it with your certifier. In my opinion a good way to do it would be to do a design approval, that way if it's approved , you can give the approval to your certifier and they should be able to pass it if it's done correctly The only reason I suggest that is what you propose is not in the manual and it could be classed as a custom chassis rail , which then has to meet CCM reqs/ be 75x50x3, but that would make no sense in your application There's not much in the CCM relating to monocoque vehicles and chassis mods Thanks Clint! I will 3d scan the floorpan and CAD up the proposed rails for design approval. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Is this shit legal? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Unfortunately it is a serious question, I just bought these boys of fb marketplace to chuck into the fiat but I am pretty unconvinced they are legit .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 They could be acceptable if nzta recognizes CCC as an acceptable standard for seat belts There are many belts made in China which have standard markings on them which are acceptable HOWEVER china is notorious for just putting a label with a safety standard on whatever the fuck they feel like. Sometimes the standard is not even relevant to the part, ie they will put an 'e' number relating to lights on a seat belt. There's a note in the virm about one particular brand which has the label but the top loop will fail in an accident , they are not allowed. But if its like anything else made in China, bur Chuang Zhang seat belt is no longer allowed so they just change the name to super lucky golden horse seat belt safety co and away they go again I wouldn't trust them Can you take a pic of the top loop? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 This one had a legit (from memory) label but the top loop was less than 3mm thick , so I'm picking in an accident it would probably cut the belt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 1 hour ago, cletus said: This one had a legit (from memory) label but the top loop was less than 3mm thick , so I'm picking in an accident it would probably cut the belt Its not super shabby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Is the cert still valid, if the rego has expired? Assuming no changes are made, can you re register the vehicle and carry on? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 10 minutes ago, Kimjon said: Is the cert still valid, if the rego has expired? Assuming no changes are made, can you re register the vehicle and carry on? "Vehicles modified or scratch-built, that have been de-registered (or licensing fees not paid for 12 months or more resulting in the vehicle's registration lapsing), do not need re-certification if they have their LVV certification plate affixed to the vehicle structure. Vehicles with a modification declaration certificate will need to be LVV Certified, as this certificate becomes null and void upon the vehicles registration lapsing. Vehicles that have only original manufacturers' equipment fitted or modifications done that are below the LVV Threshold need only have re-registration inspection and a VIN number issued, if required." https://www.lvvta.org.nz/faq.html 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimjon Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 6 minutes ago, Raizer said: "Vehicles modified or scratch-built, that have been de-registered (or licensing fees not paid for 12 months or more resulting in the vehicle's registration lapsing), do not need re-certification if they have their LVV certification plate affixed to the vehicle structure. Vehicles with a modification declaration certificate will need to be LVV Certified, as this certificate becomes null and void upon the vehicles registration lapsing. Vehicles that have only original manufacturers' equipment fitted or modifications done that are below the LVV Threshold need only have re-registration inspection and a VIN number issued, if required." https://www.lvvta.org.nz/faq.html Awesome thanks. My vespa with sidecar has a lasped rego. I purchased it this way, so paid accordingly. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 @cletus after your opinion as you’ll be getting this project eventually , whenever it’s done. So I need to get this ute lower than what it’s maxed out with the balljoint, I’ve been told to do a pie cut and reinforce it etc. these pics are of a 1st gen b1600 , bagged and pie cut uppers. what I need to know is what documentation do I need to support this mod? NDT report only? these arms sit completely flat standard, so you can judge how much it needs to drop overall to sort the binding. i also not the bump stop on the bottom arm is completely toast in those pics. what is the expected minimum for these? I do plan to retain using a bump stop for max lift travel too, I’m sure it’s wise to not over inflate bags and max out bjs etc the opposite way too. always open to suggestions and tips. also going to dig into the C notch and 4 link when I’m back from Japan. Similar to @kp60nick set up, although I think my arms are slightly shorter. I’m not aiming for massive travel change. Ride height at 100mm, slam and lift of “enough”. Using 8” travel bags. solid advice is rewarded in beers/hugs/high 5s/fist bumps/east coast waves 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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