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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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I'd be more proactive about fixing it than just for WOF if my car locked up the rear when pushed. Not exactly a safe setup. 2c

Could just as likely be shit tyres?

Though you mention imbalance too. So that would be worth sorting, though I don't think it's going to solve the whole problem.

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On 01/12/2023 at 17:20, Kerry-TGI said:

In a new development, I went to a brake specialist this afternoon and he had a look under the ute and found that there is a valve there. He saids it's an unusual type for them to have, with a ball inside it or something. He reckons it will be seized up and could be reconditioned.

It happens on the factory wheels too. My old one did the same. Yea it for sure needs fixed I just got used to not slamming them.

A common way to solve the harsh rear braking once a ute with a lspv has been lowered is to bend the rod that goes between the valve and the axle. You just reshape it to be more like stock so the valve isn't as open as it currently is. 

 

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1 hour ago, Raizer said:

@cletus any experience with TiTAN suspension/coilovers?
/Anything to look out for on them in regards to cert?

Seem to be pretty well regarded in Aus, but I'm 99% sure they are Malaysian rather than the Aussie made they seem to try to imply on the website.

Just shop talk, but the rear design of those means the amount of height adjustment you have is fuck all. I found this out when building my car with other brand stuff. I ended up swapping my short sleeves for longer ones for nothing, but I imagine they will be a this is it take it or leave it. Just a heads up anyway, my solution was easy, yours might not be if the height is exactly what you want out of the box.

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13 minutes ago, Bling said:

Just shop talk, but the rear design of those means the amount of height adjustment you have is fuck all. I found this out when building my car with other brand stuff. I ended up swapping my short sleeves for longer ones for nothing, but I imagine they will be a this is it take it or leave it. Just a heads up anyway, my solution was easy, yours might not be if the height is exactly what you want out of the box.

Currently it's about 50mm off the ground with completely dead air suspension, I'd like it fairly low on coils but I'll take whatever height I can get just to get the car mobile again.

 

Sample pic from their website, that's on factory 18" wheels, I've got a lot wider 19s

W219-8_1800x1800.jpg.8d7612bf859ea57659e2d27fb9e7dbb3.jpg

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3 hours ago, Raizer said:

@cletus any experience with TiTAN suspension/coilovers?
/Anything to look out for on them in regards to cert?

312360206_5593019220764644_7324607908212783529_n_1800x1800.jpg.493d093ca3df1f35575def21b0b7ee2f.jpg

Seem to be pretty well regarded in Aus, but I'm 99% sure they are Malaysian rather than the Aussie made they seem to try to imply on the website.

 I've done one car with those , I would think they are probably very similar quality wise to yellowspeed/xyz/d2 etc 

Ie, for a road car, ok 

 

 

Making sure the bump stop limits travel before the front upper ball joint hits the body is probably the main thing to look out for 

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For installation of monsoon shields (and a whole bunch of others, quite often) VIRM says

"In-service requirements for condition and performance must be met."

What does it actually mean?

The specific question I have though is, if there are any transparency requirements, can it be opaque (I think I've seen ones made out of metal, for older cars) for monsoon shields,

If the area of the side glass where monsoon shield overlap needs to meet 35% VLT combined etc.

 

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On 07/12/2023 at 21:06, cletus said:

 I've done one car with those , I would think they are probably very similar quality wise to yellowspeed/xyz/d2 etc 

Ie, for a road car, ok 

 

 

Making sure the bump stop limits travel before the front upper ball joint hits the body is probably the main thing to look out for 

I think with the risk of customs stinging me for duty I might as well pay the extra $ for BC Golds through Redline at this stage, way cheaper in Aus but after splitting into 2 parcels for Auspost and some drinks for @shrike to receive, package and send them kills the savings.
Looking at going with Mike Reid for cert, he's listed as Tauranga and Gisborne.
Would have bugged you Clint but "transporting" it late at night to Auckland, then bringing it back in the case of needing a recheck and fitting the dongle thing sounds like too much time and effort ha.

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On 08/11/2023 at 15:34, jakesae101 said:

Just a cert question on calliper adapters, these have been previously certed they are adapters for evo brembos to holden commie uprights and clubsport discs.

providing they are the correct thickness is the weld holding the two pieces to get the offset correct an issue? as I thought they had to be a single peice? 

IMG_8612.jpeg

Did you figure this one out?

my adaptors that are supplied are a 2 piece like that.

the guy said to put a couple of tack welds at each end.

i guess it’s no different than having a washer as a spacer like the palmside m16 caliper kits have that I run.

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42 minutes ago, shizzl said:

Did you figure this one out?

my adaptors that are supplied are a 2 piece like that.

the guy said to put a couple of tack welds at each end.

i guess it’s no different than having a washer as a spacer like the palmside m16 caliper kits have that I run.

no i am still tossing up purchasing @cletus or @KKtrips opinions?

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Yep they can be tack welded together, if the weld is not doing anything apart from holding the 2 bits together for assembly, preventing someone from putting it together incorrectly by a spacer going missing 

 

If a weld is transmitting any brake load though, different story 

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What's the deal with certing your build before paint? Ideally I'll build the entire thing, get road legal, then paint - ensure I don't need to make any changes that would affect new paint. Are there any issues with having cert photos of the car without it's fancy new paint job?

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1 hour ago, zep said:

What's the deal with certing your build before paint? Ideally I'll build the entire thing, get road legal, then paint - ensure I don't need to make any changes that would affect new paint. Are there any issues with having cert photos of the car without it's fancy new paint job?

I am wondering similar for my scratch built Riley build. As far as I can tell I need to finish the whole car before I can take it to VTNZ to get a VIN then to the certifier for LVVTA cert then back to VTNZ for Entry certification.

I had the same question as Zep. When I last saw the certifier he said finish the whole car then bring it back.

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Sort of depends what state you plan to try cert it in. Are you sealing all the underside/inside areas that have had body modifications/rust repairs or just leaving that til it goes to paint?

Colour won't matter but any body areas that have had work done will need to be sealed properly to prevent corrosion to be signed off. 

So underbody priming/seam sealing/top coating etc. Same with inside/exterior.

I have done full dry fits/mock ups of cars mostly in bare steel or primed but not seam sealed before and got them running/driving and had cert 'progress inspections' done but havn't been completely signed off until the car is blown apart, sent to paint, sealed up and reassembled properly so a final inspection can be done. 

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Have been asked twice by wof guys if different colour matters

It doesn't, but it would be better if you can do the final cert pics when it's all done so you don't have to deal with that

 

It is a cert requirement to paint any modified areas so your suspension and chassis etc will need to be painted with something for cert  

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12 hours ago, cletus said:

Have been asked twice by wof guys if different colour matters

It doesn't, but it would be better if you can do the final cert pics when it's all done so you don't have to deal with that

 

It is a cert requirement to paint any modified areas so your suspension and chassis etc will need to be painted with something for cert  

Ok, sweet. I guess I just don't want to have it all nice and neat only to find that I need to do something major that requires repainting things. With the painted suspension/chassis/etc, you still want to see unpainted pics of welds and stuff right?

 

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