For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[ul9601]

Im pretty sure I got fed BS by a wof inspector on recheck.

1. It failed on tread depth on 2 tyres, I got replacement ones and turned up he now says the other tyres are bad.

2. Then the ones I replaced had 91V rating (vs 94V on the opposite side, which didnt fail) and said its a different speed rating. I checked its actually load rating is lower.

3. I think he s just sour I didnt give him any work, cos I didnt buy any tyres off him (and a couple of other stuff - exhaust flex joint was leaking, which he pick up but it turns out the failed rear engine mount was yhe cause. Also I did brake pad change myself)

So how do I report this guy so he doesn't try on another sucker

[tortron]

3 minutes ago, ul9601 said:

Im pretty sure I got fed BS by a wof inspector on recheck.

1. It failed on tread depth on 2 tyres, I got replacement ones and turned up he now says the other tyres are bad.

2. Then the ones I replaced had 91V rating (vs 94V on the opposite side, which didnt fail) and said its a different speed rating. I checked its actually load rating is lower.

3. I think he s just sour I didnt give him any work, cos I didnt buy any tyres off him (and a couple of other stuff - exhaust flex joint was leaking, which he pick up but it turns out the failed rear engine mount was yhe cause. Also I did brake pad change myself)

So how do I report this guy so he doesn't try on another sucker

Nzta has a complaint form somewhere 

Also if they are an mta member you can go through that

 

Therea a bit saying they don't take complaints about tyres lol

[Bling]

Put the tyres with same load rating on each axle so front match and rear match. Sorted. Unless you roll staggered wheels / tyre widths. You only mention load rating as the fail, so that should fix it / them.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/__createpdf?pdf=aHR0cHM6Ly92ZWhpY2xlaW5zcGVjdGlvbi5uenRhLmdvdnQubnovcGRmLWhyZWY/aWQ9Mjc1NjMmbmFtZT1UeXJlcywgd2hlZWxzIGFuZCBodWJz

Does look like a fail from my view, load rating isn't close enough on the same axle.

If the old tyres are pretty low then it's going to handle a bit odd with good tyres on one side and low tread tyres on the other side. So perhaps having both new tyres on one axle is the right idea anyway?

[ul9601]

yeah the fact they failed the old tyre they didn't pick up on recheck and saying the speed ratings dont match when its load ratings dont says much about them.

as soon as i told him that i got the tyres myself and others jobs as well, the guy suddenly became picky on recheck.

im going how come you didnt pick up on low tread on the other tyres but suddenly its a problem?

oh well, enough dealing with dodgy outfits.

[ul9601]

took it to AA expecting fail on loads of stuff but just two, 13% VLT tint and rear bump stops - apparently bump stops are flavour of the month, according to a shop I took it to get it done. 

[Adoom]

So the Triumph has 12X1.25 wheel studs from the nissan IRS. And 7/16th UNF on the factory front suspension.

To avoid cross threading when the nuts inevitably get mixed up, I want to change the front studs to metric.

But the triumph has a tapered countersink for the head of the stud. All the aftermarket studs I've come across so far have no countersink with a flat head.

What are my options? Can I turn a taper on a flat head stud?(I'm guessing not). Or can I just use a flat head stud as long as the knurled section is long enough to fully engage?

Also, if I need to drill out the holes in the hub for a larger knurl, they are just straight holes right, the knurls on the stud "cut" the spline? 

[igor]

Have you considered painting the nuts different colours for front and rear to make it obvious which is which?

[bathcollector]

2 hours ago, Adoom said:

So the Triumph has 12X1.25 wheel studs from the nissan IRS. And 7/16th UNF on the factory front suspension.

To avoid cross threading when the nuts inevitably get mixed up, I want to change the front studs to metric.

But the triumph has a tapered countersink for the head of the stud. All the aftermarket studs I've come across so far have no countersink with a flat head.

What are my options? Can I turn a taper on a flat head stud?(I'm guessing not). Or can I just use a flat head stud as long as the knurled section is long enough to fully engage?

Also, if I need to drill out the holes in the hub for a larger knurl, they are just straight holes right, the knurls on the stud "cut" the spline? 

It's going to be a stirling effort if you manage to get a 7/16 nut on a 12mm stud. I think you will be okay. have a look on Nice products site, they might have something that will work if you want to match the stud thread.

[Adoom]

8 minutes ago, bathcollector said:

It's going to be a stirling effort if you manage to get a 7/16 nut on a 12mm stud. I think you will be okay. have a look on Nice products site, they might have something that will work if you want to match the stud thread.

The S300 stud is the only one that looks like it might work. I'd need to measure for the shank length, might be too long. It's also 12X1.5 so I'd have to change the rear to match. I'd prefer to buy just one to test if the taper is correct. It seems no one in NZ who sells NICE has the S300. I'd need to get it from Aus I guess, but it says I must contact them for a shipping price.

[bathcollector]

11 minutes ago, Adoom said:

The S300 stud is the only one that looks like it might work. I'd need to measure for the shank length, might be too long. It's also 12X1.5 so I'd have to change the rear to match. I'd prefer to buy just one to test if the taper is correct. It seems no one in NZ who sells NICE has the S300. I'd need to get it from Aus I guess, but it says I must contact them for a shipping price.

The new outfit that sell them are pretty crap with stock levels, just about every time we order some they have to come from Aussie.

[kws]

Last time I needed a bunch of NICE studs, I ordered them directly from the Aus NICE website. Ended up a lot cheaper than local suppliers.

[ul9601]

The daily failed WOF on rear bump stop. Had a look at it and most of it is there (ok the bottom bit is a bit worse for wear)

 

It's not missing much when compared to the online parts catalogue (parts ordered so will be able to see the actual difference on Monday)

Is it fail?

Also, I'm gonna get the car lowered by around 2 - 3 inches, what do I do about the bump stops - VIRM says they cannot be modified but if a car is lowered then bump stops should be shorter to suit the new ride height, else it'll ride on bump stop when it isn't intended to?

[cletus]

[Beaver]

10 hours ago, ul9601 said:

The daily failed WOF on rear bump stop. Had a look at it and most of it is there (ok the bottom bit is a bit worse for wear)

 

It's not missing much when compared to the online parts catalogue (parts ordered so will be able to see the actual difference on Monday)

Is it fail?

Also, I'm gonna get the car lowered by around 2 - 3 inches, what do I do about the bump stops - VIRM says they cannot be modified but if a car is lowered then bump stops should be shorter to suit the new ride height, else it'll ride on bump stop when it isn't intended to?

Just get new bump stops that are more appropriately sized. Problem solved.

[ul9601]

1 hour ago, Beaver said:

Just get new bump stops that are more appropriately sized. Problem solved.

ok so there are generic ones with various length available? i thought i d just trim OE bump stop when lowered but i dont understand why modification s not allowed thats all.

for what they do, that seemed like the logical thing to do.

[cletus]

The reason you can't modify bump stops without cert, is there are many situations where if you trim the bumpstop, something bad could happen. Shocks bottoming out, ball joints binding, etc etc 

The manufacturer sets the bump stop length to prevent these bad things happening 

It is a big problem with coilovers, people do not understand how important bumpstops are

[ajg193]

Surely cars are self clearancing? Every other machine is.

[cletus]

Some self clearancing things

[ul9601]

2 hours ago, cletus said:

The reason you can't modify bump stops without cert, is there are many situations where if you trim the bumpstop, something bad could happen. Shocks bottoming out, ball joints binding, etc etc 

The manufacturer sets the bump stop length to prevent these bad things happening 

It is a big problem with coilovers, people do not understand how important bumpstops are

Yes I get that but isn't it also bad having too long bump stops, which would be called into action far often than necessary, creating situations where the spring rate would go higher than necessary (but not as high as infinite in case the suspension bottoms out)? A genuine question, 'cos I don't know.

In any case, I'm assuming WOF inspector would pass any bump stop that looks OE, e.g. factory bump stop for lowered version of the same car, because they don't know any better what length bump stop is meant to be there in the first place, right?

 

[cletus]

You are correct,

You could cut some off and remove the springs and check what happens at full compression 

That would be well over the skill level of your average person to get correct though. Hence it needing cert. 

the problem is the rules in the modification threshold are written to suit the most common situations, and simple modifications that have a low probability of being a cockup. 

and in your case the vehicle probably doesn't suit the wof virm rules for mods that don't need cert