flyingbrick Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Yes VG you need doubler plates above a certain size, with radiused corners a certain radius and retained in a certain way. Best to view http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf Read it like ten times to be sure then make ur plates oversize so there's definitely no complaining Here's mine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 You can get universal kits which are just threaded rod with flared nuts (to set appropriate length), so just DIY your own that way (ie get some high tensile rod. I got some to make my own but never ended up doing it as I have ro raise the car anyway lol). Seems easier than spacer tubes and botls etc Yeh, i'll just order in some bolts, and make spacer tubes. I just need to shorten them, to gain clearance between the sway bar and the gear box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Yes VG you need doubler plates above a certain size, with radiused corners a certain radius and retained in a certain way. Best to view http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf Read it like ten times to be sure then make ur plates oversize so there's definitely no complaining Here's mine. Hmmmmmmmmm, the problem I have, is that the hole comes out rite on a rib/swage/on the side of a half round bump in the floor, makes it a bit gammy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Move seats an inch and redrill seat holes? You have to drill 3 holes in floor per plate anyway so old seat holes could be one of em (See my plates with 3 holes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 3 of the 4 mounting points bolt up to the factory mounts, so only have to sort out one bolt on each of the front seats, i'll just have to sort out if the floors hollow at that point and go from there. Should be able to make up some sort of mount that works with the wonky floor. Thanks for the link to the rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave123456789 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I know when putting a battery in the boot it has to be in a box. can this box be an old beer crate or made of wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Can you get away with cutting the factory battery box out of a fucked Mini, or making a reasonable facsimile thereof, and welding it into the boot floor? It has been a workable system in the Mini since 1959 after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I'm reasonably certain you should aspire to greater things than British Leyland... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 There are some details on new rules for battery boxes in the latest LVVTA newsletter. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/newsletters_pub/LVVTA_Newsletter_2014_%20August-December.pdf Basically you need to do a proper job - structural, sealed, vented etc. A plastic battery box is easily got from a boat retailer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 and is terrible like most boat components Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Hey boats use some pretty nice stainless fuel fillers...I want one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave123456789 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Taken from the hobby manual, so I guess wood is ok as long as it isn't shit wood and solid as? Doesn't state what materials a) be securely retained in a structure specifically designed for the weight and load of the batteries being used, and Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 ...and, b ) have some method of preventing acid spills from entering the passenger compartment of the vehicle; and c ) are sealed and ventilated where charging and subsequent gas emission may occur while the vehicle is operating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yeah a beer crate isn't specifically designed for a battery. Assuming the box doesn't need to be sealed and vented externally you could just fit a regular super cheap steel battery tray plus tie down hooks/ strap then place the crate over the box (so its a cover and nothing structural) Tho could be completely wrong Edit. Beaten by a better post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 regarding camber laws With Vechiles like Old VWs that camber out as there lowered What do you do for cert/How do you get around that? Adjustable spring plates from a supplier or adjustable front beams purchased from a supplier require crack testing or anything? And are branded drop spindles sweet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unhuman Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 There are some details on new rules for battery boxes in the latest LVVTA newsletter. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/newsletters_pub/LVVTA_Newsletter_2014_%20August-December.pdf Is there any way to be notified when these newsletters are issued? Like a subscription list? Would be handy. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 There are some details on new rules for battery boxes in the latest LVVTA newsletter. http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/newsletters_pub/LVVTA_Newsletter_2014_%20August-December.pdf Basically you need to do a proper job - structural, sealed, vented etc. A plastic battery box is easily got from a boat retailer. that is going to be a headache. none of those commonly available plastic battery boxes could be considered 'sealed' looks like they have just copied it direct from the hydraulic suspension part of the HCM, (it mentions pump motors must be isolated from the fuel system) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 regarding camber laws With Vechiles like Old VWs that camber out as there lowered What do you do for cert/How do you get around that? Adjustable spring plates from a supplier or adjustable front beams purchased from a supplier require crack testing or anything? And are branded drop spindles sweet? VWs are allowed a 1 spline drop from oe, i checked with LVVTA a while back about that otherwise, everyone is in the same boat- no more than half a degree over oe spec. even if positive camber was the original setting 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 3 of the 4 mounting points bolt up to the factory mounts, so only have to sort out one bolt on each of the front seats, i'll just have to sort out if the floors hollow at that point and go from there. Should be able to make up some sort of mount that works with the wonky floor. Thanks for the link to the rules. you can shape the plates to match the floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Exactly what sort of padding needed for a rollbar to be certed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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