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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Dunno of this has been asked and probably should've asked it earlier, but regarding changing lower control arms and struts what do we have to be aware of for cert? Just Like binding or contact through out travel of suspension/steering ect?

Are professionally widened steelies certifiable?

And spaced out rack ends?

Plus how much minimum thread must a rack end/ tie rod need to be deemed 'safe'?

Thanks

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^might have trouble because the fuel tank will be in the 'cabin' if you switch to a sedan type. 

this. if its factory fitted inside the cabin then thats fine, but as soon as you do it as a modification, it would have to meet the LVV rules. The main one that would be hard is having it sealed off from the passenger compartment, you would have to build a sealed box around it.

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Dunno of this has been asked and probably should've asked it earlier, but regarding changing lower control arms and struts what do we have to be aware of for cert? Just Like binding or contact through out travel of suspension/steering ect?Are you swapping later commodore stuff into it? if so will need to be done by a 1D certifier and possibly need TAC approval

Are professionally widened steelies certifiable? Yes usually, 3'' is max you can widen them

And spaced out rack ends? i havnt passed any of those because the thread usually isnt long enough on the rack end

Plus how much minimum thread must a rack end/ tie rod need to be deemed 'safe'? there isnt a specific rule for that as people modding steering for more lock is a fairly new trend so it hasnt come up in the rules. but i would apply the same thinking as a heim joint, 1 1/2 times thread diameter

Thanks

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Yes, I'm putting (well have already purchased and installed) VR/VS style struts/brakes and LCAs into my VK. With adjustable Coilover and adjustable camber plates. This is to widen the front track to match the vn diff that's now in the car.

And possibly a vn onwards steering rack.

The subframes in these commodores are the same up to VT. As in the radius rods are exactly the same length and holes in subframe and on LCAs are all in the same positions/angles. I think the only change (apart from the fact it's a cast LCAs rather than a pressed) is the distance between the ball joint and the radius rod hole the the lca

Are you able to do 1D certification? Or if not who would be the best certifier to talk to then before I spend anymore doing this?

Thanks

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hello again,

sorry for being annoying... (yes i have searched but managed to confuse myself) 
Certifiable or nah?

12714167725_6f04ea2153_z.jpg

 

to try to find a remedy for possible bumpsteer as steering ends up on stoopid angles with adjustables even though it doesnt have much travel as ...

oh and if i was to run super stiff springs to try and stop guardrub on lock .... yay or nay?

Thanks again....

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I have bought some from alert motorsport at this stage, got a deal because of OS, will give it a go. If nothing else, I hope it holds till after nats

 

well this stuff has not worked, been filled with fluid for 6 days and its permeating through the hose like dew, I will get some new stuff at lunch time and fit it tonight

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I know you're right, but I want to find other suppliers and for cheaper. I just got some reasonably flexible epdm lined hose from Hose Technologies $25 for 2m, I'll give that a go then onto Teflon if that doesnt work still, I can get teflon with stainless braid for about $30/m

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hello again,

sorry for being annoying... (yes i have searched but managed to confuse myself) 

Certifiable or nah?

12714167725_6f04ea2153_z.jpg

 

to try to find a remedy for possible bumpsteer as steering ends up on stoopid angles with adjustables even though it doesnt have much travel as ...

oh and if i was to run super stiff springs to try and stop guardrub on lock .... yay or nay?

Thanks again....

possibly, again needs to be a 1d certifier, needs bumpsteer check as well.

 

the thing to remember is its the relationship between the pivot points of the arms that is important, more than the angle they are on.

 

so if you shift the steering arm pivot point but not the lower arm pivot point, you may be making the problem worse.

 

stopping guard rub by running stiff springs is a bad idea, as you are only masking the problem with another one.

 

If you want my opinion-from the pics in your build thread, I would be considering another option. from the pics those shocks look too short, and appear to be a cheap brand that is not well known for lasting very long (MDU)  if that is what they are, they are so china they dont even put the brand name on them. it would be a shame to do all this work just to fit a set of coilovers that are not much good anyway

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