Dpns's beddie cf camper

[d.p.n.s]

19 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

Might be able to cobble something up from a r30 skyline dash I'm sure @- i5oogt -has one or 2 

Na thats ok.i don't mind the shitty cf bedford one and its all original 

[JustHarry]

2 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

Na thats ok.i don't mind the shitty cf bedford one and its all original 

Nah I mean take the tacho out and use the driver to make something work in the beddie  

I did that with my ms65. Used a later ms112 tacho and fitted it behind the clock and made a new gauge face. At a glance it looks correct ish

[RUNAMUCK]

Did the vans offer a tacho?  

Most British tachos were inductive loop type. 

[d.p.n.s]

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Did the vans offer a tacho?  

Most British tachos were inductive loop type. 

Na man its just a square dash with a speedo and a teml and fuel gauge.

I might just just an after market one same as the TEMP ,EGT ,BOOST gauges im going to use

[JustHarry]

12psi is probably a that's worth doing with no Intercooler . 

There's a screw near the top of the pump facing rearward.  Above where the injector lines attach.

Undo the lock nut and screw in for more fuel and out for less. Probably 1/2 is a good start and see how it goes. Just be a case of setting for not offensive amounts of soot 

It will idle faster the more fuel you put in it. So adjust to suit.

 

[shizzl]

My ld28t was running 13psi in the transit, had epic spot of full boost only. it had a l28et turbo I believe 

[d.p.n.s]

5 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

12psi is probably a that's worth doing with no Intercooler . 

There's a screw near the top of the pump facing rearward.  Above where the injector lines attach.

Undo the lock nut and screw in for more fuel and out for less. Probably 1/2 is a good start and see how it goes. Just be a case of setting for not offensive amounts of soot 

It will idle faster the more fuel you put in it. So adjust to suit.

 

Definitely will be running an intercooler if that makes a decent difference 

[GregT]

1 hour ago, d.p.n.s said:

Definitely will be running an intercooler if that makes a decent difference 

If you're running an automatic, I'd really recommend plumbing up a separate trans cooler. Taking it away from the radiator was worth about 5 deg C drop in coolant temp on mine. Might well be needed on a turbo.

[d.p.n.s]

2 minutes ago, GregT said:

If you're running an automatic, I'd really recommend plumbing up a separate trans cooler. Taking it away from the radiator was worth about 5 deg C drop in coolant temp on mine. Might well be needed on a turbo.

Yes automatic and separate trans cooler .

And depending on room I be fitting the biggest rad i can and a good size intercooler 

[JustHarry]

13 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

Yes automatic and separate trans cooler .

And depending on room I be fitting the biggest rad i can and a good size intercooler 

You'll really want to run the transmission through a seperate cooler first then through the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. 

It's to regulate the temperature. The trans wants to run at the same temperature as the motor so the sepedate cooler will take the heat out of the oil the the radiator can regulate it back to operating temp.

Running the trans cold is as bad as running it hot 

[d.p.n.s]

1 hour ago, JustHarry said:

You'll really want to run the transmission through a seperate cooler first then through the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. 

It's to regulate the temperature. The trans wants to run at the same temperature as the motor so the sepedate cooler will take the heat out of the oil the the radiator can regulate it back to operating temp.

Running the trans cold is as bad as running it hot 

Interesting.... I'm not an auto guy so thats good to know.

So run it through the trans cooler to cool it and then through the rad to to try and maintain same teml as engine.....thats doable 

[R3spct]

Are you running a non turbo pump without a boost compensator? If there is a turbo version then definitely find and fit one. You can run a non turbo pump and adjust the fueling with the main control, but it will roll coal if you give it too much beans off boost.

[Bearded Baldy]

9 hours ago, JustHarry said:

You'll really want to run the transmission through a seperate cooler first then through the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. 

It's to regulate the temperature. The trans wants to run at the same temperature as the motor so the sepedate cooler will take the heat out of the oil the the radiator can regulate it back to operating temp.

Running the trans cold is as bad as running it hot 

So many people don't understand this!

Trying to explain to customers that cooler is not necessarily better, consistant temperature is the goal.

[GregT]

2 minutes ago, Bearded Baldy said:

So many people don't understand this!

Trying to explain to customers that cooler is not necessarily better, consistant temperature is the goal.

Never had a problem with mine - but living out of town the minimum run time was at least 30 minutes.

Engine coolant temps were my worry in a Canterbury summer.

[d.p.n.s]

1 hour ago, R3spct said:

Are you running a non turbo pump without a boost compensator? If there is a turbo version then definitely find and fit one. You can run a non turbo pump and adjust the fueling with the main control, but it will roll coal if you give it too much beans off boost.

Yeah none turbo and just going to run it like this for now.

It won't be a daily driver and I just want ti be able to move it around under its own steam and see how it actually is while we fit it out.

And mainly see if the ld28 is as bad as the previous owner claimed and see if ut ahits its self... as it will only happen once ...and then its getting a Ford straight six. 

Christchurch is pretty flat ...but would like to think it will go up a hill 😆 

[Bearded Baldy]

When i was talking to the previous owner before buying our camper i asked if it could hold 4th gear on hills, being a 5 speed i thought that was reasonable.

His answer was so honest it cemented the deal.

 

'If you are in 4th you aren't on a hill yet'

[d.p.n.s]

13 minutes ago, Bearded Baldy said:

When i was talking to the previous owner before buying our camper i asked if it could hold 4th gear on hills, being a 5 speed i thought that was reasonable.

His answer was so honest it cemented the deal.

 

'If you are in 4th you aren't on a hill yet'

This previous owner claimed 

1 blown auto

7 snapped cranks 

3 fucked heads..

Before he turned it into his bedroom for 10 + years.

But it was a standard LD28 (he turboed 1 of them) 3 speed auto and what I think might be a 5.2 or 5.5 ratio diff.... and maybe 400kgs of porn worthy shag pile carpet. .. and a heavy right foot

.... so far we have stripped it out completely (see how it is empty) .

Going to run an intercooler ld28 turbo with a 3 spped OD jatco 

And also have ( I believe) a 3.5 ratio crown wheel and pinion to swap in.

See how that goes 

[GregT]

Mine went up Porters Pass quite well with a TQ on a trailer behind. Held about 40k up the steep bit in low on the auto.

[d.p.n.s]

3 minutes ago, GregT said:

Mine went up Porters Pass quite well with a TQ on a trailer behind. Held about 40k up the steep bit in low on the auto.

It will be interesting to see what this goes like.... its also not very aerodynamic lol 😆 

Being able to do road speed and go up a hill faster than a milf jogging would be ideal 

[R3spct]

My Bongo camper is 2.2 4cyl non crossflow diesel, with a 1kz turbo on it.  Makes max power around 550deg egt (pre turbo).  With the manual box, i can ride the egt gauge and keep it at its best power up hills.  It has a pump off a 2.0 turbo diesel mazda engine, which means can adjust fuel response to boost etc.  I can imagine turbo or non turbo, trying to keep a diesel engine with limited powerband on song with a auto will be hard work, and hard on the engine.  

Is there any option to change to a 5 speed manual to give more range to keep on song in the rev range?