Dpns's beddie cf camper

[d.p.n.s]

1 hour ago, R3spct said:

My Bongo camper is 2.2 4cyl non crossflow diesel, with a 1kz turbo on it.  Makes max power around 550deg egt (pre turbo).  With the manual box, i can ride the egt gauge and keep it at its best power up hills.  It has a pump off a 2.0 turbo diesel mazda engine, which means can adjust fuel response to boost etc.  I can imagine turbo or non turbo, trying to keep a diesel engine with limited powerband on song with a auto will be hard work, and hard on the engine.  

Is there any option to change to a 5 speed manual to give more range to keep on song in the rev range?

Probably..but I would like to keep it auto .

I havnt looked into the 3 speed OD box ..but I have wondered if I can wire a hold button  for it

[fuel]

That Evo IV turbo will 100% be able to boost beyond 22psi - you will want to have a wastegate to control it. On the Evo it has an electronic boost control solenoid that is controlled by the ECU. I believe the original wastegate actuator will open at about 11-12psi (0.8bar) if connected directly to the compressor housing, but the ECU bleeds out some of the air at lower RPMs to spool up the turbo quicker and then it modulates the BCS to keep boost around 1bar (14.7psi) though does drop towards redline. On an Evo IX with a similar turbo they run about 20psi factory, dropping to about 16-17psi by redline. I'm running 27-28psi through my TD05HR-16G6C-10.5T and it still has more in it if my injectors weren't the current bottleneck.

[d.p.n.s]

Oh really.

Had it set to 12psi on my 2.0 pinto (was still being tuned and standrd motor).

Bug would start to build boost pretty low down and that was good

[JustHarry]

@d.p.n.s

1. Yeah that is the fuel feed Into the pump.

2 that's the return to the tank. 

3 fuck knows. Probably something from the original car the motors from. 

4 . That's the fuel cut solenoid.  Supply 12v to run and remove power to the solenoid to shut the motor off

5 yeah fuel screw. In is more fuel and out is less fuel. Little adjustments at a time .

7. Yeah oil feed for vac pump 

8 one is the oil drain to the sump for the vac pump. Treat it like a turbo drain. 

9 the other one is the vaccume.  It goes to the brake booster or whatever else needs vaccume  looks like the one with the hose still on it is the vaccume 

10 is your heater hose feed. 

The heater return is in the back of the block on the driver's side from memory 

11. Hard to see what the pic is. 

12 no idea. Most of that shit on the pumps is to do with the car it was in original . Could be a fast idle or something like that for cold or ac or anything 

There is a idle speed stop that you'll need to lower when you add more fuel too 

[d.p.n.s]

17 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

@d.p.n.s

1. Yeah that is the fuel feed Into the pump.

2 that's the return to the tank. 

3 fuck knows. Probably something from the original car the motors from. 

4 . That's the fuel cut solenoid.  Supply 12v to run and remove power to the solenoid to shut the motor off

5 yeah fuel screw. In is more fuel and out is less fuel. Little adjustments at a time .

7. Yeah oil feed for vac pump 

8 one is the oil drain to the sump for the vac pump. Treat it like a turbo drain. 

9 the other one is the vaccume.  It goes to the brake booster or whatever else needs vaccume  looks like the one with the hose still on it is the vaccume 

10 is your heater hose feed. 

The heater return is in the back of the block on the driver's side from memory 

11. Hard to see what the pic is. 

12 no idea. Most of that shit on the pumps is to do with the car it was in original . Could be a fast idle or something like that for cold or ac or anything 

There is a idle speed stop that you'll need to lower when you add more fuel too 

Fucking champion mate.

Thats very much appreciated 

[d.p.n.s]

@JustHarry

#11was a small pipe on the same fitting as the big vaccume hose...so I'm presuming small vaccume pipe for say booooooooooost gauge 

 

[Raizer]

5 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

@JustHarry

#11was a small pipe on the same fitting as the big vaccume hose...so I'm presuming small vaccume pipe for say booooooooooost gauge 

 

If your alternator vac pump is making boost you're doing something really wrong lol

 

Will be for vacuum for maybe a vac solenoid or something, my 1kz has a small fitting that ran the EGR dashpot etc.

[JustHarry]

4 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

@JustHarry

#11was a small pipe on the same fitting as the big vaccume hose...so I'm presuming small vaccume pipe for say booooooooooost gauge 

 

Yeah like raizer said. It's for other small vac things.

Heater controls etc.

Since the diesel makes no vaccume itself the alternator vaccume pump is where that comes from. 

Often the idle up for air conditioning is a vaccume solenoid etc 

[JustHarry]

Also how long has the trans been sitting?

Could be worth stripping down and throwing a set of clutches and steels in it 

[d.p.n.s]

1 hour ago, Raizer said:

If you're alternator vac pump is making boost you're doing something really wrong lol

 

Will be for vacuum for maybe a vac solenoid or something, my 1kz has a small fitting that ran the EGR dashpot etc.

Ahh that make sence

[d.p.n.s]

25 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

Yeah like raizer said. It's for other small vac things.

Heater controls etc.

Since the diesel makes no vaccume itself the alternator vaccume pump is where that comes from. 

Often the idle up for air conditioning is a vaccume solenoid etc 

Yeah I understand 

[d.p.n.s]

20 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

Also how long has the trans been sitting?

Could be worth stripping down and throwing a set of clutches and steels in it 

Probably been sitting for ever

[RUNAMUCK]

Just pull the pan, give it a de-scuzz, and replace the filter (if it's the replaceable type) 

These transmissions are often victims of zero maintenance, made even worse by the engines lasting until the sun goes out......

[JustHarry]

Pretty common for a trans that's been sitting for yes amount of years that once you start using it the material comes off the clutches and clogs the pickup 

[JustHarry]

@d.p.n.s 12v to the solenoid at back of fuel pump.

use a 12v click clack fuel pump to feed diesel to the pump. Saves having to bleed as much. 

crack every other fuel line at the Injector. 

When it starts on 3 cylinders and leaks diesel from the 3 that are loose do them up tight and it should run on 6. 

Might pay to screw some wood to the motor mounts or it'll fall over lol 

[RUNAMUCK]

Just my opinion,

I wouldn't run it on the stand. 

I wouldn't start it untill it's in the vehicle so you can give it a proper break in.  (I presume the rings are new?)

The honing marks in the bores are fresh and rough. They'll wear the bed in coating off the outside of the rings.  Too much running without decent load to wear down the roughness, without bedding the rings in real nice. 

[d.p.n.s]

2 hours ago, JustHarry said:

@d.p.n.s 12v to the solenoid at back of fuel pump.

use a 12v click clack fuel pump to feed diesel to the pump. Saves having to bleed as much. 

crack every other fuel line at the Injector. 

When it starts on 3 cylinders and leaks diesel from the 3 that are loose do them up tight and it should run on 6. 

Might pay to screw some wood to the motor mounts or it'll fall over lol 

Thanks man.

[d.p.n.s]

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Just my opinion,

I wouldn't run it on the stand. 

I wouldn't start it untill it's in the vehicle so you can give it a proper break in.  (I presume the rings are new?)

The honing marks in the bores are fresh and rough. They'll wear the bed in coating off the outside of the rings.  Too much running without decent load to wear down the roughness, without bedding the rings in real nice. 

Nope I'm not putting it in till I've heard it run.

I don't want to run it long I just want to make sure I've out it all together. 

Then once I'm happy ....then it can go in the van.

[d.p.n.s]

2 hours ago, JustHarry said:

@d.p.n.s 12v to the solenoid at back of fuel pump.

use a 12v click clack fuel pump to feed diesel to the pump. Saves having to bleed as much. 

crack every other fuel line at the Injector. 

When it starts on 3 cylinders and leaks diesel from the 3 that are loose do them up tight and it should run on 6. 

Might pay to screw some wood to the motor mounts or it'll fall over lol 

What about glow plugs... just 12v?

[fletch]

1 hour ago, d.p.n.s said:

What about glow plugs... just 12v?

Yep 12v