Popular Post dmulally Posted August 27, 2023 Popular Post Share Posted August 27, 2023 Now then. I dragged this home so I might get it running in situ so I can see how it runs with a standard box. The fuel is varnish and the shifter is seized but it's all good because the engine is seized too. @Adoom and @cubastreet just felt a cold chill go down their spine. 6 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 ....that gearbox adapter plate. It looks very rectangular. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 The angle iron engine mount is pretty sweet too. I love that sort of one off engineering. Looking forward to seeing if it actually drives. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 Did they hacksaw the front off the subie box and tig it onto a bit of plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 15 minutes ago, cubastreet said: Did they hacksaw the front off the subie box and tig it onto a bit of plate? To the left of the plate is hillman and subie to the right. Going to be a right pain when it breaks as it will all need to be swapped over rather than punted into the creek like every other rooted imp box. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 Came with a pretty sweet split radiator setup in the rear. Anybody know if it will be a problem having a filler neck/cap both front and rear? Thinking for the front putting on an 18psi cap and 13psi on the rear with an expansion bottle off that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 18psi is a lot for a vintage radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 Are they linked? 105/120Ls had a thin piece of tube that ran from the top of the rad (up front), along the top of the front guard with a small bleed tap up near the base of the windscreen. It drained into the gutter/channel that the bonnet edge closed into on the guard. Foolproof for bleeding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 The front one is a modern alloy radiator. I could weld it shut but not sure I want to go down that one way street. The 18psi is to keep it closed off. Rear ones look 80's or 90's. Front and rear will be on different circuits (front off the heater lines with an EWP in line) and rear two will be split and on the subie water pump circuit. So all with the same water but going down different paths. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 I'd just run the alloy one up front and remove the one in the back. Keep it light and as simple as possible. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 Yeah furry muff. I suppose I could change it if it starts getting too warm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 You'll be fine. A home-brew turbo + Megasquirt on a 136 1300 didn't stress the small stock rad on a 120L, so a stock NA Subaru should be a piece of piss. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 14 hours ago, dmulally said: Engineering porn straight onto instagram that. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 So I got the engine freed up but the starter motor is frozen. Even tried hitting it with a hammer but nada. I might just drop the engine and try to start it on the floor as it's a pain trying to get to things in there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 I might have a spare scooby starter you can have. Not sure what those earlier engines have fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 28, 2023 Share Posted August 28, 2023 19 minutes ago, yoeddynz said: I might have a spare scooby starter you can have. Not sure what those earlier engines have fitted. Thanks. I'll send you some pics of what it looks like. It looks pretty cruddy though so I might give it a good clean first and see if that's all it takes. Also trying to sort shipping on these: Seller is making it tricky to know a price however. Look at the questions: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/engines/listing/4289059341 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 29, 2023 Share Posted August 29, 2023 This thing is yuck. I might give it a scrub first and then take a peak under the valve covers. The breather pipes are missing so looks like a lot of condensation/rust could have snuck into it. Soon find out! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted August 30, 2023 Share Posted August 30, 2023 Anybody got any hot tips for rebuilding starters? I sandpapered the round copper looking thing and the three things that go around it but nada. It pushes out but doesnt rotate. If I rotate by hand it is very stiff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 Easy. come get one of mine. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 @yoeddynz when you could be bothered, are you able to show me the engine mount setup you have for the datto pls? My one is reasonably clever and uses the original mounting point but I know the LVV cert man won't like it being angle iron and not boxed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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