dmulally Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 So having a bit of a drama fitting the adapter plate for the VW gearbag. The bolts that attach the plate to the block are fouling the flywheel. Am I missing a trick here? The holes aren't counterbored which would have solved that problem. I went to my normal bolt supplier and their low profile cap screws are the same height as a normal hex head at 5mm. Countersunk screws I'm not sure will have the surface contact area I need. I'm unsure if a button head screw would be too high a profile also. Google brings up space saving bolt head items from places in Asia which I'm not interested in as it'll take three months to arrive. Any ideas? Torque the bolts down and grind them lower in situ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 That sort of adaptor uses countersunk screws normally don't they? Most of the force on the gearbox would be torque/rotation so the mounting bolts will be loaded in shear so should be fine. How much power will you be transferring anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 42 minutes ago, Nominal said: That sort of adaptor uses countersunk screws normally don't they? Most of the force on the gearbox would be torque/rotation so the mounting bolts will be loaded in shear so should be fine. How much power will you be transferring anyway Every one I have used has always been countersunk. This one isn't. I'll do a quick check for low profile screws/bolts but if nothing doing Ill just grind them down until it clears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted December 30, 2023 Share Posted December 30, 2023 13 hours ago, Nominal said: That sort of adaptor uses countersunk screws normally don't they? Most of the force on the gearbox would be torque/rotation so the mounting bolts will be loaded in shear so should be fine. How much power will you be transferring anyway So old mate fucked up and forgot to counterbore the mounting holes. Ffs. Im one stubbed toe away from this being put under a car cover and put in the big shed at the back. This is how it was supposed to be done but I guess he forgot. 2 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Ended up getting it machined locally. Frustrating but what can you do really. Can anybody let me know if the rear main seal is the correct way round please? I'm second guessing myself. The hollow part faces the front of the engine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Yeah that looks correct. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 5 hours ago, dmulally said: Ended up getting it machined locally. Frustrating but what can you do really. Can anybody let me know if the rear main seal is the correct way round please? I'm second guessing myself. The hollow part faces the front of the engine. Yes oil pressure pushes the seal lips against the crank. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 Hi All, Can anybody recommend a machine shop that can whip up a spacer? With the box swap the engine is a lot further back now and I need a spacer to take up the slack. Washers are doing the job now but I'm sure it'll make the cert man wince. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 I can do that. Message the dimensions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 I too can hook you up with a round thing with a hole in it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 @dmulally like I said this morning on the reverse gearstick anonymous phone call, you don't have to make it as poncy as mine. Just rotate your under tunnel shaft 180 degrees so flipping the forged socket to the top and raise the gear stick fulcrum the required amount (30mm iirc), so reversing your across gate movement.... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Looks good mate. Let's do a midnight run over the hill. I'll have a look but I don't think I have any sump pans (lots of stuff got stolen for scrap in porirua) and if I do it will be ea81, but maybe they're the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 2200rpm at 'an indicated' 60mph. My speedo reads way out! But even if yours is out a bit it's still a huge improvement from 4000! Dreamy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 On 26/03/2024 at 18:46, yoeddynz said: @dmulally like I said this morning on the reverse gearstick anonymous phone call, you don't have to make it as poncy as mine. Just rotate your under tunnel shaft 180 degrees so flipping the forged socket to the top and raise the gear stick fulcrum the required amount (30mm iirc), so reversing your across gate movement.... I had a look through the spares bin and found half a shaft (you have the front part) and most of a shaft setup. Ill have a bit of a play. I'll still see if I could be bothered though. Anything I do make will be rough enough to make a David Brown owner blush. What does A mean in your CAD drawing above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 'A' is just the distance between centreline of shaft and the centreline of the socket. You'll need to raise the gearstick fulcrum twice that distance once you have turned the shaft around. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted March 27 Share Posted March 27 Gotcha ta. I made a new list of what needs to be done before LVV and added it to the bottom. I'm going to try and book in over the next few days to give me a deadline. Right after I swap this perfectly serviceable ball joint for an inferior Chinese one which in my experience has a 25% failure rate during install. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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