dmulally's pimpin' Imp

[dmulally]

So having a bit of a drama fitting the adapter plate for the VW gearbag. The bolts that attach the plate to the block are fouling the flywheel. Am I missing a trick here? 

The holes aren't counterbored which would have solved that problem. I went to my normal bolt supplier and their low profile cap screws are the same height as a normal hex head at 5mm. Countersunk screws I'm not sure will have the surface contact area I need. 

I'm unsure if a button head screw would be too high a profile also. Google brings up space saving bolt head items from places in Asia which I'm not interested in as it'll take three months to arrive. 

Any ideas? Torque the bolts down and grind them lower in situ? 

 

[Nominal]

That sort of adaptor uses countersunk screws normally don't they?

Most of the force on the gearbox would be torque/rotation so the mounting bolts will be loaded in shear so should be fine.

How much power will you be transferring anyway

 

[dmulally]

42 minutes ago, Nominal said:

That sort of adaptor uses countersunk screws normally don't they?

Most of the force on the gearbox would be torque/rotation so the mounting bolts will be loaded in shear so should be fine.

How much power will you be transferring anyway

 

Every one I have used has always been countersunk. This one isn't. 

I'll do a quick check for low profile screws/bolts but if nothing doing Ill just grind them down until it clears. 

[dmulally]

13 hours ago, Nominal said:

That sort of adaptor uses countersunk screws normally don't they?

Most of the force on the gearbox would be torque/rotation so the mounting bolts will be loaded in shear so should be fine.

How much power will you be transferring anyway

 

So old mate fucked up and forgot to counterbore the mounting holes.

Ffs. Im one stubbed toe away from this being put under a car cover and put in the big shed at the back. 

This is how it was supposed to be done but I guess he forgot. 

[dmulally]

Ended up getting it machined locally. Frustrating but what can you do really.

Can anybody let me know if the rear main seal is the correct way round please? I'm second guessing myself. The hollow part faces the front of the engine.

[yoeddynz]

Yeah that looks correct. 

[rusty360]

5 hours ago, dmulally said:

Ended up getting it machined locally. Frustrating but what can you do really.

Can anybody let me know if the rear main seal is the correct way round please? I'm second guessing myself. The hollow part faces the front of the engine.

Yes oil pressure pushes the seal lips against the crank.

[dmulally]

Hi All,

Can anybody recommend a machine shop that can whip up a spacer? With the box swap the engine is a lot further back now and I need a spacer to take up the slack. Washers are doing the job now but I'm sure it'll make the cert man wince. 

[yoeddynz]

I can do that. Message the dimensions.

[Adoom]

I too can hook you up with a round thing with a hole in it.

[yoeddynz]

@dmulally like I said this morning on the reverse gearstick anonymous phone call, you don't have to make it as poncy as mine. Just rotate your under tunnel shaft 180 degrees so flipping the forged socket to the top and raise the gear stick fulcrum the required amount (30mm iirc), so reversing your across gate movement....

 

 

[cubastreet]

Looks good mate. Let's do a midnight run over the hill.

I'll have a look but I don't think I have any sump pans (lots of stuff got stolen for scrap in porirua) and if I do it will be ea81, but maybe they're the same.

[yoeddynz]

2200rpm at 'an indicated' 60mph.  My speedo reads way out! But even if yours is out a bit it's still a huge improvement from 4000!  Dreamy 

[dmulally]

On 26/03/2024 at 18:46, yoeddynz said:

@dmulally like I said this morning on the reverse gearstick anonymous phone call, you don't have to make it as poncy as mine. Just rotate your under tunnel shaft 180 degrees so flipping the forged socket to the top and raise the gear stick fulcrum the required amount (30mm iirc), so reversing your across gate movement....

 

 

I had a look through the spares bin and found half a shaft (you have the front part) and most of a shaft setup. Ill have a bit of a play. 

I'll still see if I could be bothered though. Anything I do make will be rough enough to make a David Brown owner blush. 

What does A mean in your CAD drawing above? 

[yoeddynz]

'A' is just the distance between centreline of shaft and the centreline of the socket. 

You'll need to raise the gearstick fulcrum twice that distance once you have turned the shaft around. 

[dmulally]

Gotcha ta. 

I made a new list of what needs to be done before LVV and added it to the bottom. I'm going to try and book in over the next few days to give me a deadline.

Right after I swap this perfectly serviceable ball joint for an inferior Chinese one which in my experience has a 25% failure rate during install. 

 

[yoeddynz]

Congrats on sorting it out. 

Now I want a video of it singing away at 8000rpm - which I note is where your rev limit needle is... 

 

[cubastreet]

I bet it'll do 8k.

[yoeddynz]

Easy as eh and keep sound so sweet too. 

Vid to confirm please. 

[Ja1lb8]

Was just looking through your build thread and happened across a post where  yourd installed a kenwood bluetooth amp .  Looks exactly like what I'm after.    I know the model number bit doesn't appear  to be readily available in nz.  Mind sharing where you got it from.   It is listed on Amazon australia for about $700 kiwi delivered