Alfashark Posted February 24 Posted February 24 The layout in the back goes - Expansion/header tank connected to the main hardline that has the elbow on the end to the water pump. The black hose circled in red, comes off the thermostat housing at the back of the block and joins onto the other hardline to the front of the car. 1 1 Quote
dmulally Posted February 25 Posted February 25 On 24/02/2025 at 19:58, Alfashark said: The layout in the back goes - Expansion/header tank connected to the main hardline that has the elbow on the end to the water pump. The black hose circled in red, comes off the thermostat housing at the back of the block and joins onto the other hardline to the front of the car. Cheers. Do you know what that smaller line goes to from the expansion tank? Quote
Alfashark Posted February 26 Posted February 26 The thin black one at the front of the expansion tank? Just had a quick look through a manual, it says it's a bleed line off the thermostat housing. If that's the case, it's been twisted up and out of the way for engine removal. 1 Quote
dmulally Posted February 26 Posted February 26 Yep. Whilst I'm waiting for the filler neck to come in from overseas I might go to the wreckers and look for a header tank like that one. I always run an external expansion tank anyway but could put me back on the road faster so I can test on it some more. Sucks seeing it ready for a drive and not being able to. 1 Quote
Alfashark Posted February 26 Posted February 26 VW group ones are common, a nice round globe shape and consequently don't take up much room. 1 Quote
dmulally Posted March 10 Posted March 10 On 07/03/2025 at 19:06, yoeddynz said: Gary has cute little paws. He has thumbs! Anyway I managed to nab one of these: I'll T piece into the main hose line and block off the heater. Similar to the question above, my car doesn't have a thermostat bleed line. Anybody know if I can plug it off or should I put a T piece in the hose line to the T piece on the main hose line such as this: Not sure there is anything on the block I can take it from. Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted March 10 Posted March 10 Cap it off at the tank will be fine. Some of the euros come like that, same bottle for multiple vehicles so just cap or uncap as needed. 1 1 Quote
dmulally Posted March 30 Posted March 30 Anybody here care to assist with troubleshooting either a carb or ignition problem as a family? Quote
dmulally Posted March 30 Posted March 30 Does anybody know anything about SU needles? I think either my dizzy isn't advancing the timing (almost certain it isn't) and the needle is too small for my engine in the HS6. Trying to google my way out of a hole but most everything HS6 (1.75") related is twin or triples. Quote
locost_bryan Posted March 30 Posted March 30 Try this Needle Comparison Chart | SU Carburetters This one talks about needle options for Minis with various carb setups, including single HS6 SU Carbs - Quick reference needle selection (for Minis) The EA71 is very short stroke, so BMC/BL long stroke stuff using single HS6 may not be much help, however the Austin Maxi 1500 and 1750, B-series 1600 and 1800, and O-series 1700 might give some ideas of needle options. 1 1 Quote
dmulally Posted March 30 Posted March 30 8 minutes ago, locost_bryan said: Try this Needle Comparison Chart | SU Carburetters This one talks about needle options for Minis with various carb setups, including single HS6 SU Carbs - Quick reference needle selection (for Minis) The EA71 is very short stroke, so BMC/BL long stroke stuff using single HS6 may not be much help, however the Austin Maxi 1500 and 1750, B-series 1600 and 1800, and O-series 1700 might give some ideas of needle options. Mine is the ea81. So I think my comparisons will be with the Austin 1800 or MGB for those who wanted a single carb. I tried looking up that reference chart but I couldn't figure it out. I think the steps I need to take are to sort out the vacuum advance, then pull apart my carb to see if I have a stock needle. Then look for a richer version. Quote
locost_bryan Posted March 30 Posted March 30 Certainly, sort out the distributor, then check the carb isn't worn, which can lead to air leaks around the spindle and so on. Have a read of @kws's Marina thread, he had issues with his HS6 iirc. 2 1 Quote
VitesseEFI Posted April 1 Posted April 1 Quick and dirty trick on the SU…. When it falls on its face, pull the choke out. If it recovers and takes off, it’s lean. If it drowns, it’s rich. What is the carb originally from? Pop the needle out and look for the 3 letters stamped in the shank. Then pop the letters into this http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/ as your baseline….. and start comparing. Haynes SU book is useful for looking up OE needles and springs. Springs are also important. A stronger spring makes the needle richer throughout by increasing vacuum above the jet. Timing wise, you can find and mark TDC. You can also measure the diameter of the pulley, work out the circumference and divide by 360 for mm/degree. You’ll typically want about 30 deg “all in” at around 4000rpm 3 1 Quote
yoeddynz Posted April 2 Posted April 2 Quite annoyed that you just go slapping on a couple of hotdogs out back and your exhaust already sounds more boxer than mine... I might copy. 5 Quote
dmulally Posted April 2 Posted April 2 9 minutes ago, yoeddynz said: Quite annoyed that you just go slapping on a couple of hotdogs out back and your exhaust already sounds more boxer than mine... I might copy. I got a speech the other day about it being louder than a harley going up and down the road. I think the last thing you'd ever want to copy is my POS. As for said POS, I have the dizzy out and stripped. Awaiting some part from the West Island. So they'll be here Monday next week or September. Not sure which one I prefer. Had this pop up in my memories today. The good old days when it wasn't the eternal project. 6 Quote
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