CUL8R Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Keep at it, you're getting there. I'd be trying your vicegrips on the outside of that bolt head, get them on tight nice and sideways.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 New carbide drill bit will drill through it Id hit it with a 1mm disc on an angle grinder to make a slot and then hammer it with an impact screwdriver 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 That cranking speed sounds much better! I found a piece of hardened screw extractor in a screwhead on a Bell 412 bulkhead securing screw once. Found it with a drillbit, would not recommend. Countersunk screw, so I had to chisel it out, also would not recommend. Your spark leaking like that... I'm assuming the other end of the lead attached to the coil was floating in midair and not looped back around to the dizzy somehow? Getting spark is good news, that's a bit part of 'getting her started' job sorted! If that motor has been sitting for ages, I wouldn't read too much into the compression test results at the moment. Quite likely the rings are pretty gunged up and sticking in the ringlands. Will need a little bit of running and a couple of heat cycles, then check it again. Nothing in those readings should stop it starting. You've got spark, You've got compression (mostly, lol), how's that fuel lookin? If you remove the intake pipe can you see them spraying? If that head proves to be a real problem, with the sparkplug thread I'm pretty sure I've got a couple of JDM jet valve heads in the storage unit. Much success :-). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomble Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 Yeah the ignition coil isn't connected to anything . I actually got a spare one from rockauto.com as the current one has some rust I can see when looking down the top of it, and it was cheap. The fuel system is mostly off the car at the moment, or at least all the rear stuff is. I've got a new fuel pump but still need to sort my fuel tank out re: rust before I even think of putting that back on, and would also want new hoses... and of course need to sort out the pickup lines and gauge sensor. I did hear the fuel pump going when it was still attached and the key was turned so the electronics are probably fine. So I was just planning on opening the carb up and spraying Start ya bastard into it for the first run... and then decide whether we want to put the fuel system back on for a drive around the cul-de-sac before we strip everything off the body. Or just get straight to the stripping. 1 hour ago, ProZac said: If that head proves to be a real problem, with the sparkplug thread I'm pretty sure I've got a couple of JDM jet valve heads in the storage unit. What dis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Deffo get it going for a quick ride before you strip it apart! Even if you just have the stock fuel pump sucking from and returning to a temporarily mounted 5l jerry can or something. JDM cars had jet valve heads. They're there like little auxiliary intake valves (the head on them is like, maybe 7mm diameter?) that are meant to introduce swirl into the combustion chamber and help with fuel mixture. Lots of debate as to whether they actually do anything, and most often people want the heads that didnt have them as they're less prone to cracking. Means the jet valve heads are easier and cheaper to find tho. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 Blocked injectors won't cause the fuel pressure to go so high that it leaks. You've either got a bad fuel pressure regulator, or more likely that o-ring is actually leaking because it is old and no longer supple. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomble Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 On 17/01/2021 at 17:54, ajg193 said: Blocked injectors won't cause the fuel pressure to go so high that it leaks. You've either got a bad fuel pressure regulator, or more likely that o-ring is actually leaking because it is old and no longer supple. Good to know... time to learn about fuel pressure regulators <.< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Nice result, gotta be happy to hear that first fire up! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomble Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 2 hours ago, Dell'orto said: Nice result, gotta be happy to hear that first fire up! Over all three of Earth's recognised moons! Struggling now to know what to search for re: getting that hose replaced / recrimped / whatever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 22 hours ago, tomble said: Over all three of Earth's recognised moons! Struggling now to know what to search for re: getting that hose replaced / recrimped / whatever Most hydraulic places should be able to make you up a hose from memory 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 YUS YUS YUS! Oh hells yes. Genuine smile from ear to ear watching that my man! Sounds really good too! Smooth idle, which is very odd for the TBI injection system. Awesome! That line is threaded one one end where it connects to the hard line under the car, and a banjo at the other from memory? I checked my parts stash but don't have a spare one alas, otherwise I'd send it on up. For making a new line, the banjo end would be a pretty easy solve, it'll be a standard metric size, but NFI what the other end is. But pull it off and take it into a hydraulic hose place and see what they say? Still, that's just excellent. Major mojo boost :-). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomble Posted February 10, 2021 Author Share Posted February 10, 2021 22 hours ago, ProZac said: That line is threaded one one end where it connects to the hard line under the car, and a banjo at the other from memory? I checked my parts stash but don't have a spare one alas, otherwise I'd send it on up. For making a new line, the banjo end would be a pretty easy solve, it'll be a standard metric size, but NFI what the other end is. But pull it off and take it into a hydraulic hose place and see what they say? Hells to the yea. The hose is from the filter to the carb, so banjo on the filter end and the funky um, thing, that I replaced the o-ring on at the carb end. I'll remove it later this week and post a pic. I think I have everything to replace the hose myself if I'm able to get the crimped dooberies off. If not, hydraulic place to the rescue - though I might just skip a step and take it straight there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomble Posted February 10, 2021 Author Share Posted February 10, 2021 @ProZac this is the beasty. The joint between the crimpy boi and the banjo fitting is where it's leaking. I'll bring it to a hydraulics place tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 That looks similar to the hose most efi mitsis have from filter to fuel rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 Not that I could recommend it to someone else, because fire, but I'd slice the crimps off, remove the hose, replace with EFI rated hose and clamp with efi style hose clamps. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomble Posted February 12, 2021 Author Share Posted February 12, 2021 Hydratech here in upper hutt did me a solid with more professionalism than a random dude walking in with 30cm of hose deserves. Will rejerry the jerry rigged jerry can and test it tomorrow morning. Also wtf is with the cost of copper washers in NZ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 16 minutes ago, tomble said: Hydratech here in upper hutt did me a solid with more professionalism than a random dude walking in with 30cm of hose deserves. Will rejerry the jerry rigged jerry can and test it tomorrow morning. Also wtf is with the cost of copper washers in NZ Just heat the old ones to red hot and let them cool to soften the metal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomble Posted February 12, 2021 Author Share Posted February 12, 2021 11 minutes ago, Nominal said: Just heat the old ones to red hot and let them cool to soften the metal I don't think my heat gun will cut it Definitely on my list of things to buy though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 17 minutes ago, tomble said: I don't think my heat gun will cut it Definitely on my list of things to buy though! Heat gun no, element on your stove yes. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Transom Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 17 minutes ago, tomble said: I don't think my heat gun will cut it Definitely on my list of things to buy though! Gas cooker / bbq hold them in the flame with pliers til cherry red 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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