Flash's 1965 Ford Thames

[Flash]

All good @Mof

Thanks for reading all the way through my "War and Peace" like novel.

[Terrick down Under]

HI, love this build and all the thought that has gone into, then you were able to put it in words with pics made a lot of sense.
I have a question........With the vehicle sitting at ride height. If you sit a spirt level ( pointing front to rear) on the bottom of the front cross member is it level? or does the member tilt back and can you measure how much?

I am doing a L300 graft into a '36 Oldsmobile truck chassis.

Thanks Rick

[Flash]

Thanks very much for the feedback Rick.

I've got the front suspension in pieces at the moment as I'm replacing the lower control arm bushes, but once its all back together I'll happily chuck my digital level on the cross member for you.

I'll send you a PM when I've got the info for you.

Cheers, Gordon

[CUL8R]

What about adapting the column from the hiace, and putting the steering universals / guts out of the thames van?

[Flash]

11 hours ago, CUL8R said:

What about adapting the column from the hiace, and putting the steering universals / guts out of the thames van?

Thanks for the suggestion.

When I first started piecing together the steering/gear change column I discounted the HiAce option, but there has been a lot of water that has passed under the bridge since then.

So, yes you have raised a very valid suggestion and it might be worth my while dragging the HiAce one out for another look. All it's going to cost me is a bit of time.

I really appreciate your input.

Sometimes its difficult to see the wood for the trees, so its good to have a fresh approach suggested.

 

[andy007007]

the thread was a great read.  I hope you aren't going to give up on trying to get the column shifter set up to work -  i get that it can be frustrating at times. am doing a very similar thing on my dodge pickup though rather than use the original shifter I was going to try and use the one from my hilux column and graft the gearlever from the dodge onto it (might need to extend the length while I'm at it) hopefully that will solve any issue of it resting in the 5/R position as the hilux looks like it uses a spring either side of the shift lever to keep it located central.  either that or  i might bore out the center of the original to match the hilux one

I look forward to the updates 
Andrew
  

[Flash]

Hiya Andrew,

Thanks heaps for taking the time to read my thread and thanks also for the feedback and encouragement. Your project sounds interesting too.

I'd love to be able to get the column shift to work on my van, but the biggest issue is the one that you have highlighted namely being able to get the changer to "rest" in the 3rd and 4th gear position with a push up for 1st and 2nd and a push down for 5th and reverse.

As you have probably already read in my posts, in my case I'm using morse cables for shifting and the "latency" in the cables makes for a very inconsistent result. Sometimes its perfect, other times not. A botched gear change could end up with severe consequences and that's my biggest fear at the moment.

Sadly I haven't had a chance to work on my van for a good few months now, but hopefully i can get back onto it over the winter.

All the best with your setup. Sounds like you are on the right track.

Cheers, Gordo

 

 

[1963 AP5]

For what it's worth I like the Hotwires, I've never seen a Mustang with Cheviot wheels on it before and it makes me smile.

Gives it a down under feel!

Loving the car - well done so far!!

[Flash]

1 hour ago, 1963 AP5 said:

For what it's worth I like the Hotwires, I've never seen a Mustang with Cheviot wheels on it before and it makes me smile.

Gives it a down under feel!

Loving the car - well done so far!!

Thanks heaps for the positive feedback @1963 AP5 They are a vast improvement over the modern wheels. I must admit that I'm battling to come to terms with the narrow 205 front tyres on 7J rims as she currently runs a 235 on a 8J up front. I do get a bit of "tram lining" with the wider front wheels but I'm not sure it that is due to worn suspension components or the overly wide tyres. I'm going to try running a 225 up front just to see how it handles.

In terms of final wheel choice I'm currently leaning towards these puppies also in a 15 inch diameter, but maybe with a charcoal or silver painted centre:

[Basnz]

Gee Gordon, your Bedford was a walk in the park compared to this build, but lots of fun...

[Flash]

48 minutes ago, Basnz said:

Gee Gordon, your Bedford was a walk in the park compared to this build, but lots of fun...

Hiya Bas, yep the Bedford was easy as many had done similar conversions, so it was just a case of copying everyone else's ideas. Not so easy when you have to think for yourself Ha Ha.

I suppose I could just take the easy route and chuck in an auto box, but I'm a real glutton for punishment.

How is your Bedford project going?

[Basnz]

5 minutes ago, Flash said:

Hiya Bas, yep the Bedford was easy as many had done similar conversions, so it was just a case of copying everyone else's ideas. Not so easy when you have to think for yourself Ha Ha.

I suppose I could just take the easy route and chuck in an auto box, but I'm a real glutton for punishment.

How is your Bedford project going?

Ok, but building it for my Son now so he can go away in it, as he is into Surfing, paragliding etc so often away for a few days, and he wanted Windows etc, here are some photos taken a while ago, all in one colour now, hope to paint it before summer is over... take care. say hi to Jax and Rosie for me..

 

[CUL8R]

Never seen that type of flare tool before, what brand/how much?

[yoeddynz]

Yeah I've popped in to ask about that tool. Curious on how it works. I too have the same unit as your old one and they certainly have to be used carefully and with extra clamping to give decent results. I'm keen on anything better. 

My old work place had an old American made setup that was beautifully machined and very solid but only good for using at the bench (which is fine must of the time)  but I've never seen one for sale and I'm sure it wasn't cheap anyway. 

Also - the pipe you're using looks to be copper? If it is then I presume that's OK in oz? I know it's fine in the UK.

In nz we have to use proper steel 'bundy' brake pipe for brake lines. Copper is fine for the clutch though. 

[Nominal]

49 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

 

In nz we have to use proper steel 'bundy' brake pipe for brake lines. Copper is fine for the clutch though. 

We can use the copper/nickel brake line here,

e.g.

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/braking/brake-hoses/cunifer-nickel-copper-brake-tube-7-6m-roll-3-16in-kunifer-3-16/p/A1307666

[Flash]

Yep, the pipe is copper nickel which can be used here in OZ. I'm assuming from the comment by @nominal that it is a legit option in NZ too.

@CUL8R, the new flaring tool is a no name brand jobbie off eBay. Was $46.75 Aus including postage.

@yoeddynz, yep with the old tool I suffered quite a bit of pipe slippage. Even tried resurfacing the face of the clamping bit to try to get the tube to hold better, but was still getting mixed results. The clamping power of the new one is heaps better. I've probably done a dozen flares so far and not one failure. On the old tool you had to eyeball the height of the tube sticking above using the little die as a reference. Not always precise especially for an old set of eyes like mine. The new tool has a die that you screw in and then you insert the tube till it touches the die which makes the length absolutely precise every time. I've been holding the tool in a vice rather than using the little handle as I just find it more convenient to have two hands free for the process. I'm definitely sold on the new kit. Only issue is it will only do 3/16 so I'd have to buy a separate tool if I wanted to do other sizes, but I reckon for the money it's a really good option over the other style.

[jakesae101]

I brought what’s is probably the original for that made by eastwood and it makes far nicer flares than the other style you have. I also suffered with lots of slippage.

 

this is the one i have for anyone interested 

https://restosupplies.co.nz/on-car-flaring

 

[Flash]

6 minutes ago, jakesae101 said:

I brought what’s is probably the original for that made by eastwood and it makes far nicer flares than the other style you have. I also suffered with lots of slippage.

 

this is the one i have for anyone interested 

https://restosupplies.co.nz/on-car-flaring

 

Thanks for sharing. That is really good value for a quality product.

[jakesae101]

Ill be honest I wish I had brought it first time round, the quality of flare as you have found is far better. As you have mentioned the only limitation is the one size and you need a bit of extra length with close bends i just flared then did the final bend.

[yoeddynz]

11 hours ago, Nominal said:

We can use the copper/nickel brake line here,

e.g.

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/braking/brake-hoses/cunifer-nickel-copper-brake-tube-7-6m-roll-3-16in-kunifer-3-16/p/A1307666

Yeah that's the stuff. I always thought it was a steel blend. But yep- its much harder than the straight copper stuff that's allowed to be used in the UK.

4 hours ago, jakesae101 said:

I brought what’s is probably the original for that made by eastwood and it makes far nicer flares than the other style you have. I also suffered with lots of slippage.

 

this is the one i have for anyone interested 

https://restosupplies.co.nz/on-car-flaring

 

Cheers for the link. @Flash yes- the slipping. I have resorted to using a g clamp to squeeze the tool up to stop it slipping. But even then I still have to make sure I get the little form dead square with the tool or else the flare goes off uneven. Keen on a better tool like above.