Flash's 1965 Ford Thames

[Flash]

11 hours ago, cletus said:

I wonder if your bad luck with distributors is something to do with the heat problem 🤔 

That's a good point @cletus I've definitely cooled things down in the sweaty old engine box by running my thermo fan after switch offs, so it will be interesting to see how long my reco'ed dizzy lasts.

[Nominal]

I'd be keen to see your bamboo landscaping project!

[Flash]

Here you go @Nominal

Before:

The feature timbers were starting to look a bit shabby. A good pressure clean would sort them out for a while, but being so close to the pool the cleanup aftewards was an absolute nightmare. So we decided to go for something a bit easier to maintain.

And after :

 

The trick was finding panels long enough for the job. Most panels come in either 1.8 or 2.0 long, but we needed 2.2 and my OCD wouldn't have allowed me to join panels or leave a gap at the bottom. Bamboo Land had 2.4 long panels in stock, so it was worth making the trip.

Here is a photo of another little bamboo panel related project that we did in another part of our garden:

[Mike OReilly]

Greetings Thames Guy,

 

Back in 1972 I purchased an ex AusPost Thames 400E that had been resprayed duck egg blue by a second hand car yard (Fred MotorCity) I believed it to be a 1965, put some trendy wide Aunger Mags on it and drove it for a few months with the old clunker Consul motor, which had to go if ever I was to carry my racing motorcycles in the rear. 
I was told about a one man farm-based car wrecker and GT Ford re-badger who specialised in Ford GT fabrication, at a place called Caloote, near Murray Bridge in SA, a few hours drive from my parent's home in Adelaide. I contacted him and we agreed that a motor change could be done. Driving up the SE Freeway I was pouring old sump oil into the engine as I drove - and putting equal amounts of water into the radiator mouth! As I drove slowly along the dirt track to this farm, the engine was loudly clanking, steam blowing out and exhaust emitting clouds of smoke!

Alan Kowald, a bloke a few years older than my age of 22 years, was the wrecker / car builder - and he stood there with a piece of straw in  his teeth and said: "Well you're not leaving here without a new motor - gidday mate".
His first action was to lift out the old engine using a lifting bar through the door openings. I think the sump was taken off to let that happen. He peered into the engine hold and did some quick measurements. Came back with two options: 1/ a Ford Mustang Cobra Jet V8 would fit in, but he said I'd have to use a 'Red Spanner' to change the spark plugs. Me: What's that... he says - "an oxy torch!". Hmmm a joke on me.
Next option #2 was a Ford Falcon 221 cu inch 6 cylinder ((3.6 litre) he had from a recently crashed commercial traveller's car - which had low miles and was running well. Yep - he says - we can get that in. Just have to remove the wooden flooring to expose the guts of the frame - then oxy cut and widened the A Frame mounts that supported the gearbox - and then cut through the pressed metal forward 'wall' that sat beneath the engine hood cover. He did that. We then brought the motor and gearbox in through the rear door on some kind of pole on front end of a tractor if I recall!

Long story short, just a few heating and bending to make the engine mounts fit the Falcon engine, a new support bracket for the 3 speed standard gearbox (all still connected) and a bigger radiator from the same Falcon actually fitted with a bit of hammering. Next the gear linkages. Alan says - it's a bloody Ford - and they're all the same Maaate - and he welded the original Thames rods to the Falcon rods... and he went through the gears and said it felt like buttery smooth!  It was lovely to use, fast and positive.

Next came the driveshaft - - he sliced down the Falcon section, sliced down the Thames section – making it about 2 feet long with the engine set further back than the Consul running gear. He then slotted the Thames into the Falcon, put it on his lathe to check the alignment – did that by eye and feel – then dab arc welded it a few times, spun it up on the lathe and declared it perfect – then finished the weld around. Driving away it had no vibration and the only thing that required every few years was the rear flexible joint that suffered from the lower angle from Falcon gearbox to the rear axle – but I was able to do that job myself.

Showing how savvy this guy was... to fill in the previously cut out across pressed metal part, Alan found an old and heavy steel Vanguard petrol tank and cut it into a section that perfectly fitted around the space, even using the flange of the old welded tank section to bolt to the wooden floor and strongly bolted to the metal sections as a space frame! Never any flex. 
On the road I was able to power slide on certain weather days on the tarmac or on the dirt – and even did a Street Car Drags Meet at Adelaide in 1973 on my way from Adelaide to Whyalla.
In Whyalla I did a deal with a Panel Shop guy who agreed to do some metal fabrication for a scoop on the front lower area for more air, and a smoother rear lower panel. They then kicked me out of the shop after the grey primer went one – and then did a fully manic paint job with geometric patterns that shocked me – and those who looked in amazement at this wild van. 

The Thames stayed that way for the 8 years and hundred thousand or so Miles/Kms that I did in that time. Drives from Adelaide to Perth along the Nullarbor (when it was part dirt and rocks) and across to the Highlands of Vic/NSW and over to Brisbane for racing events. I never had a speedo that worked – but used a tachometer that I graduated marks to show speed limits! 
Going across the Hay Plains highway we tested the speed by stopwatch timing against the old Mile Posts - and had a genuine reading of 110 MPH – and that was our cruising speed! The wind noise was so bad that me and mate Dave Kelly both wore early 70's padded earphones linked to an 8-Track stereo under the dashboard. 

To put a heater in the van I found a small heater radiator section from a wrecker and piped it to the system and hung it beneath the air-vent – and bingo – a heater. Aircon in those days – nah – slide open the windows – and I put a Cortina air circular direction vent with a scoop into the roof with a hole a few inches across just behind the windscreen and rear-view mirror. We had airflow, not cooling.

It went on bricks for 9 months in 1977 when I was overseas. Years on in July 1979 it even went with me for work in the NT, being put on a flat-top railway car from Adelaide to Alice Springs, with a new Honda 250 off road motorcycle in the back and all my worldly goods stacked around it. 

Did some good speed runs in the NT up the track from Alice and it always ran like a dream at up to the ton. Stable, driving like a Mini – a wheel in each corner and power enough to get out of trouble. I could drive it like a rally car.

Drag racing story: Back in 1973 I called in to Adelaide Intl Raceway while driving the Thames to my workplace at  Whyalla in the north of SA. What the... said the guy at the Entry Desk - a bread van!  I rolled out for my first run - the crowd and commentator were laughing - until I did a reverse burn-out - and proceeded to clock around 14 secs if I recall. I ended up being listed to run again and ended up in a handicap final with 'Fast Eddie' Vukovich - in a modified Falcon GT Shaker ! He whipped me - but what a hoot. I then put my baggage back in the van to drive to Whyalla.

 

So that's my Thames Van story. I sold it to my mate Dave Kelly who was moving to Queensland's Capricorn Coast to set up a bar and cafe. He had it for a few years and reckons he sold it to some drug-runners who were going back forth from tropical Far North Qld!

 

I would love to  have it back!!

Cheers, Mike O'Reilly, 0414 882 505     I hope the pic can be sent: if not email me for the images. oreillym@ozemail.com.au

 

 

 

 

[Sambo]

I felt like I was reading a vehicular Hunter S. Thompson story. A+.

[Flash]

@Mike OReilly thanks heaps for taking the time to share your Thames adventures. Sounds like you have some bloody good memories of your van.

[440bbm]

Bugger about the fail! 

not a huge difference in rpms between 4.3 to 4.1 and the same from 4.1 to 3.9 
What is your gearbox, and tyre sizes? there are a few online calculators we can run to show you the change.   it may only be  150 RPM, but that might be enough to bring first gear back into effect.

what rpm are you doing at 50ks and 100ks?   So we can let you see the difference.

 

gut feeling is a 3.7 would probably be far more suited to your requirements.

[Flash]

9 hours ago, 440bbm said:

Bugger about the fail! 

not a huge difference in rpms between 4.3 to 4.1 and the same from 4.1 to 3.9 
What is your gearbox, and tyre sizes? there are a few online calculators we can run to show you the change.   it may only be  150 RPM, but that might be enough to bring first gear back into effect.

what rpm are you doing at 50ks and 100ks?   So we can let you see the difference.

 

gut feeling is a 3.7 would probably be far more suited to your requirements.

Thanks heaps for the reply @440bbm and also for the offer of assistance.

I have looked at a few of those online calculators, but the biggest issue that I have is that I'm not running a tacho in the van, so I've got absolutely no idea what revs I'm actually doing.

What I was hoping to do was to work out the optimum ratio by using my gearbox ratios as a guide. So at the moment 1st gear has a ratio of 3.928 and it's hardly worth using with my current 4.1 ratio diff. The van comfortably pulls off in 2nd gear which has a ratio of 2.333. So to my simple way of thinking if I could find a diff ratio that would effectively turn my 1st gear into 2nd and so on that would be ideal. Sadly maths is not my strong point and I couldn't find an online calculator that could work this out for me. 

My gearbox is a Toyota G54 (5 speed) with the following ratios: 1st - 3.928, 2nd - 2.333, 3rd - 1,451, 4th - 1.000, 5th - 0.851.

My rear tyres are 225/50/15 which works out at an overall wheel diameter of 606mm if the online calculator that I found is to be believed.

Any guidance that you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

[CUL8R]

This is a good calculator to help you out;

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

https://tremec.com/aftermarket/resources/gear-ratio-calculator/

 

 

[440bbm]

OK, sweet. 

Doesn't matter that you don't have an RPM counter, just makes it harder to verify the change to what you want with actual numbers.

What gear do you use for around town at 50kms and obviously you're in 5th for 100. 

 

Here is your current setup. I have used 4th gear @ 50kph :

5th gear @100kph:

 

 

So if we go to a 3.9 final drive ratio:

50 kph in 4th:

100kph in 5th: 

 

 

So if we go to 3.7 final drive ratio:

50 kph in 4th:

100kph in 5th: 

 

 

OK.  There you can see the differences at nominal speeds.
But what about 1st gear you say?  I'm not going to do a @Roman spec graph for you which would be alot easier for your veiwing pleasure but the basics are this:

1st gear, 4.1 Final drive:

8kph = 1132 rpm
16kph = 2264 rpm

 

1st gear, 3.9 Final drive:

8kph = 1077 rpm
16kph =2154 rpm

 

1st gear, 3.7 Final drive:

8kph =1022 rpm
16kph =2043 rpm

 

This would be easier, if I did an RPM to kph speed for you to see easier but because I'm lazy and cbf starting again, you can think about this the long way around it.

But as it seems:

1st gear @ 20/21kph is the roughly similar revs at 100 kph with 4.1 ratio  (2943 rpm )

1st gear @ 20/21kph is  2800rpm  with 3.9 ratio 

1st gear @ 20/21kph is  2656rpm  with 3.7 ratio 

 

 

Alot of funny numbers there.  What I would do at this point, would be a cheap shitty RPM gauge that you can put in temporarily to see whats what. I question that you may be feeling like the revs are higher than you think which is not uncommon when you're sitting on top of the motor, not behind a firewall and alot further forward ( quieter ).

The average becomes around 150 RPM in any gear in 0.2 change of final drive ratio. This also doesn't allow for wanting to change gears at different speeds with those without knowing what your RPM is in any gear/speed.

Feels like dropping to a 3.9 may not be enough, but someone with more experience with your motor may be able to answer is the 3.7 going to make the motor suffer from torque.   I'm almost about to question are yoou sure the gearbox is correct as the numbers don't look scary bad.

 

TL;Dr - Not that certain I have actually answered anything or helped.

 

 

 

[Flash]

Thanks heaps for sacrificing some of your time to do the calcs for me @440bbm. I really appreciate it.

I took the gearbox ratios straight out of my HiAce workshop manual, but that doesn't necessarliy mean that the detail is correct.

I think your ideal of fitting a cheapie tacho is a good one, so I'll start working on that and will report back with some figures.

Thanks again.

Thanks also to @CUL8R for the links to the calculators.

[440bbm]

No worries. 
regarding the gearbox comment, was more meaning it is actually a g54 not something else with a different ratio. If you are certain its correct, then all good. 

just that it doesnt seem that 'short' in the ratio. 

[Flash]

6 hours ago, 440bbm said:

No worries. 
regarding the gearbox comment, was more meaning it is actually a g54 not something else with a different ratio. If you are certain its correct, then all good. 

just that it doesnt seem that 'short' in the ratio. 

Yep definitely a g54.

[tortron]

dunno the rules there, but you should be able to cut those bolts shorter, so only 3 threads are showing

[Flash]

3 hours ago, tortron said:

dunno the rules there, but you should be able to cut those bolts shorter, so only 3 threads are showing

Thanks for that Tori.

[yoeddynz]

I'm dizzy with excitement... 

I'd love to give you some points but looks like you don't need them.. 

Maybe someone here can give you a lead on what to check next.. 

Some bright spark on here will know what's up... 

All these coil issues must be getting you wound up.

[Flash]

Thanks for the laugh Alex, it's definitely what I need right now ! 

I'm embarrased to say that I made a break through today. More about it on my build thread.

[VitesseEFI]

So…… I have had similar many years ago with my Triumph Herald.  Basically whenever I caned it with less than a 1/4 tank it would drop onto two cylinders as there was only enough fuel getting through for the front carb.  Sometimes it would just do it without being near empty or being caned.  Never was much in the fuel filter apart from a few fine fibres.  I carried a bicycle pump for the specific purpose of blowing out the fuel line.  Was very irritating but I could never find anything in the tank. Eventually I took the tank out and after much flushing a swilling, got out a 60cm length of fine fabric tube. I think it must have been the fabric outer slipped off a length of fabric covered hose (maybe even a present from the cunt who syphoned my tank one night). Certainly it was nothing I’d dropped in there and it had been previously fine for several years.

So sounds like you have something similar. On a newer vehicle I’d suggest a problem with a filter sock on the pickup but I doubt this would ever have had one.  I suppose it’s also possible there’s a nice little collection of “solids” that keeps rolling back into the pickup area and obstructing the outlet.  Or have you/PO used slosh sealant on it?
Do you have anyway of looking into the tank (sender port etc)? Otherwise may have to drop it out and swill it out….. Probably not something you really wanted to do! ☹️

[Tiger Tamer]

It could be the tank did have a coating on the inside which has failed or it could be rust scale though you would think you would be getting some come out when you are draining it. My old Hillman as a youth had rust in the tank and did the same when the tank got below 1/4 so I had to drop it out and clean the rust out.

[igor]

Neighbour's J1 Bedford had a similar intermittent failure to proceed. Ran sweet when it was running and then suddenly didn't. After he and I spent far too much time chasing non-existent electrical faults he got a mechanic out and they discovered a piece of rag and a large screwdriver in the tank. God alone knows how long they had been there and how they got there.