Discuss here about Yoeddynz's little Imp project...

[RUNAMUCK]

Is the Base plate of the carb worn, of the thottle shaft?

I have a large box of carb stuff.

[NickJ]

I'm with Tortron, shrinkfit bronze sleeve thats then machined to size

I look forward to your report that makes it look way more fun whilst neglecting the reality of hours spent dialing it in square

[kyteler]

Typical fucking Alex. 

 

Fucking excellent work as usual by yourself and Hannah.  Congrats on a job well done with just typical old car fettling to go. 

[yoeddynz]

Well I fixed one leak and then discovered the mother of all leaks..

Mr Bart- tell me more about your box of bits. I think its just the bore on base that is worn- hoping the shaft is OK. Although I do think my cunning use of a rubber washer and a blob of silicone has truely fixed that, now minor, leak  and in a good Barry fashion

I'm just sooooo stoked its road legal now.

[yoeddynz]

2 minutes ago, kyteler said:

Typical fucking Alex. 

 

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Fucking excellent work as usual by yourself and Hannah.  Congrats on a job well done with just typical old car fettling to go.  Im now going to come up your way asap and stay a weekend, cook you some eggs and have a beer with you whilst extolling the virtues of small Datsun engines.

 Why hey- thank you! You are most welcome here- should I put the kettle on love?

[kyteler]

I would love to man but no dice in the near future.  One day though... 

[kyteler]

I might have random carb parts too tbh.  Will check tomorrow when it's not pitch black. 

[RUNAMUCK]

That accelerator pump boot wont be your air leak. the piston is sealed in it's bore. the area above the float level in the carb is vented anyway. And the float chamber top has a gasket around the venturi anyway. It does pay to check that the top is dead flat. If it's been apart a few times overzealous school boys tightening up the screws can warp the lid leaving an air gap. 
 

[SunnyCoupe]

Blaardy marvellous work on the car and the updates, throroughly enjoyable hour wasted reading through all that. 

[yoeddynz]

35 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

That accelerator pump boot wont be your air leak. the piston is sealed in it's bore. the area above the float level in the carb is vented anyway. And the float chamber top has a gasket around the venturi anyway. It does pay to check that the top is dead flat. If it's been apart a few times overzealous school boys tightening up the screws can warp the lid leaving an air gap. 
 

What if the piston is buggered too? But yeah OK. I'll check it all out and see if I can spot something else. 

Meanwhile.. You be a good boy and look through your carb collection for me

[RUNAMUCK]

If the cup on the piston is fucked, your accelerator pump won't discharge when you dump the gas. This will give you all of the flat spots. But that area is still flooded with gas. And there's a check ball in the bottom of the accelerator well. So yeah air shouldn't be able to infiltrate your fuel metering circuit from that torn boot.

I've had a few carbs that were flat spot/bog happy. 

Ebay is the cheapest place to buy a carb kit. Or you can buy a whole new china one off aliexpress. 

Or just buy a 1 3/4 SU from a 2.5 trumpet and modify your manifold. (I'm sure and old barry like you could tune one of them in your sleep)

[Toucan]

This build thread has been a pleasure to read as per your usual, keep it up mate!

[yoeddynz]

10 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

If the cup on the piston is fucked, your accelerator pump won't discharge when you dump the gas. This will give you all of the flat spots. But that area is still flooded with gas. And there's a check ball in the bottom of the accelerator well. So yeah air shouldn't be able to infiltrate your fuel metering circuit from that torn boot.

I've had a few carbs that were flat spot/bog happy. 

Ebay is the cheapest place to buy a carb kit. Or you can buy a whole new china one off aliexpress. 

Or just buy a 1 3/4 SU from a 2.5 trumpet and modify your manifold. (I'm sure and old barry like you could tune one of them in your sleep)

Once again old man Datsun has stepped in with handy bits of knowledge I'll rule that torn boot out.  The history and origin of this carb is a bit murky. I was given it by a Viva loving friend in Nelson who had got it with a box load of Viva bits. This was well before I had even contemplated buying an Imp, let alone a Datto powered one. So it sat in my big box of junk under the bench next to old dizzys, starters, alts etc with the idea I might retro fit it to the Viva 1159cc engine (apparently they work real well on Vivas)

Hannah was the one who looked up the serial/model numbers and deduced its from a 1200.  However- I have not confirmed that the jets are correct. So at some point today I'll strip it down and check the jet numbers, give it a proper good look over and see if I can spot anything.

I dont want to wait for an ebay carb kit, nor wait for a potentially substandard carb from Ali. @Slacker_Sam. can sort me a carb kit for $50 which seems ok but we are yet to confirm whether it has new jets or not. No point me buying a kit without jets and then discover the jets are incorrect in this carb.

I do like SUs but they never have the same snap in acceleration. They are great for economy but apparently, well from all the road tests I have read, these Hitachis are aweome for economy on a 1200 as well as having the extra acelleration pump feeling. 

Apparently.

Its gonna be something stupid and small this issue. Anyway- we have a tiny house build to take on now and earn monies!

[fletch]

How about a Hitachi SU? Aka flat top from 260z? They have an accelerator pump. People think they are shit, but they are just 40 years old and need a re kit.

[yoeddynz]

I think if I spend any real money and effort at improving the fueling it'll be via a megasquirt/speeduino ecu and my own custom injection   After having pissed about trying to tune an SU on my turbo rotary, the cost of needles and it never being right compared to tapping on a keyboard (or even my phone!) injection just makes so much sense.  But for now I'm happy to just get a the stock hitachi system working.

Certainly going to make a cold air feed though. Bart was right- its thermonuclear hot up in the top of the engine bay.

[Nominal]

So, did you ask the P.O about the sketchy pulley?

[yoeddynz]

Yeah. I told him that I had discovered his 'art work'. He was completely unfussed. Had a smile. He's a pretty cool chilled old Barry... and he is actually on this forum and has been following the thread!

[WhangareiKE70]

What size speakers are those? I have a collection of speaker grills because hoarding (/the speakers have bought usually end up behind factory grills), let me know what size and I can send you pics to see if any of them suit? If they do they are yours for the price of postage?  

[RUNAMUCK]

Re your rear main seal fix, 

I'd pull off the whole sump and reseal that too. And it's not shown in the earliest Haynes manual, but there's supposed to be a tiny bit of sealer on the bevelled corners of the rear main cap too. (I had a few engines which still weeped after id done my darndest to.seal them.up.

then a later manual revealed that hack I'd missed.

[yoeddynz]

1 hour ago, WhangareiKE70 said:

What size speakers are those? I have a collection of speaker grills because hoarding (/the speakers have bought usually end up behind factory grills), let me know what size and I can send you pics to see if any of them suit? If they do they are yours for the price of postage?  

Oh awesome. The circular groove that the mesh cover would push into is 150mm diameter. The depth needed to clear the tweeter is 17mm if the face of the mesh is flat. Let me know if you can help and I'll ping ya some dosh. Cheers.