Hyperblade 634 Posted August 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 13 hours ago, smokin'joe said: being contact with original builder is the key, from when i talked to tech office It does make it easier, but you should still be able to get the changes through it just might need more pushing from your side. I know someone who got an old cage homologated under the new rules so it is doable. Of course if they want everyone to use HANS they are going to have to get their shit sorted as there will be a lot of cages which will need harness bars due to the belt angles. Have a talk to Deane/Brent at Palmside (They did my cage changes) they might be able to advise you on if it's likely you can get your changes through. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt 4,593 Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 Love how this is coming along! How did you remove the old underseal? I’ve started scraping mine off and it’s taking forever! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt G 252 Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 Dang that axle popping, very lucky not to be hurt. Do you think it was vibration at speed that caused it to let go? or was it just unlucky timing, would have thought it would let go at low speed where there is max Torque? Excellent build love the setup. LOVE BEAMS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hyperblade 634 Posted August 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 15 hours ago, _Matt said: Love how this is coming along! How did you remove the old underseal? I’ve started scraping mine off and it’s taking forever! It's a nightmare. I tried a number of things, but what worked best was a Clean and Strip Disc on a grinder e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/10311-toolshed-clean-and-strip-disc-115mm?categoryId=1918 It doesn't heat it up so it comes off fairly well, it does however create massive mess (I'll still be finding bits in the garage for years to come) However you do end up going through a lot of them as they wear out, and you have to be so careful you don't catch them on anything otherwise large chunks come off. The other thing I tried that worked was an Oscillating Tools, it came off in nice flakes, the only downside was it was really hard to get into hollows and corners, but would work ok on flat panels. It was also fairly hard on the tool. e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/6288-milwaukee-m12-cordless-multi-tool-12v-bare-tool- I tried a wire cup on grinder and it just smeared it. I've also heard water blasting it might be an option, keeps it cool. 12 hours ago, Matt G said: Dang that axle popping, very lucky not to be hurt. Do you think it was vibration at speed that caused it to let go? or was it just unlucky timing, would have thought it would let go at low speed where there is max Torque? Excellent build love the setup. LOVE BEAMS We had just replace the rear universal, so it was ether an installation error, or it just was a cheap universal that failed. Certainly reinforces that having a drive shaft hoop is a must. RE BEAMS, You might want to keep reading the build thread 1 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt G 252 Posted August 21, 2020 Report Share Posted August 21, 2020 haha welcome to hondota club. k20 has so much easy potential too. nice choice. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hyperblade 634 Posted August 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2020 Anyone got any good info on plenum sizing? Currently is 1.8L but I can easily add spacers to increase, from what I've seen on the internet people say around 3-3.5L is better, cause reasons... Negative maybe affects throttle response? Not sure if on part throttle how big an issue that is??? I have the space available so easy to do now... Might also allow injectors in their... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hyperblade 634 Posted November 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2020 @Roman Honda Plenum Sizing FYI RBB (06-08 TSX) Part #: 17110-RBB-000 Weight: 6.2kg Throttle body opening: 60mm (with idle bypass) Runner Length: 31.0cm Runner width: 4.4cm (min) Runner width: 4.8cm (max) Individual runner volume: 492.5cc Total runner volume: 1970cc Plenum volume: 1650cc Total manifold volume: 3620cc RBC (CL7) (supposedly one of the best) Part #: 17100-RBC-J00 Weight: 4.5kg Throttle body opening: 62mm (with idle bypass) Runner Length: 18.5cm Runner width: 4.8cm (min) Runner width: 5.1cm (max) Individual runner volume: 270cc Total runner volume: 1080cc Plenum volume: 1720cc Total manifold volume: 2800cc RSP (FN2) Part #: 17100-RSP-G00 17101-RSP-G00 17102-RSP-G01 17103-RSP-G00 Weight: 5.6kg Throttle body opening: 64mm (no idle bypass) Runner Length *1: 25.5cm Runner Length *2: 19.5cm Runner width: 4.8cm (min) Runner width *1: 5.8cm (max) Runner width *2: 5.1cm (max) Individual runner volume: 295cc Individual velocity stack volume: 105cc Total runner volume *1: 1600cc Total runner volume *2: 1180cc Plenum volume *1: 2530cc Plenum volume *2: 2950cc Torque Chamber volume: 800cc Total manifold volume: 4930cc *1 with velocity stacks fitted *2 without velocity stacks fitted RRC (FD2) Part #: 17100-RRC-000 Weight: xx kg Throttle body opening: 64mm Runner Length: ~ 19.0cm Runner width: ~5.1cm (min) Runner width: ~5.3cm (max) Individual runner volume: xxxcc Total runner volume: xxxxcc Plenum volume: xxxxcc Total manifold volume: xxxxcc 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roman 15,276 Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 This is all coming together nicely! Good work on that ducting, looks great. Nice idea having those foldable tabs on the curved part. And yeah it can sometimes be surprising how little thought goes into some aftermarket parts! Love the bussmann boxes I'll definitely not bother mucking around with big DIY relay/fuse boards etc anymore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hyperblade 634 Posted January 11 Author Report Share Posted January 11 1 hour ago, Roman said: This is all coming together nicely! Good work on that ducting, looks great. Nice idea having those foldable tabs on the curved part. And yeah it can sometimes be surprising how little thought goes into some aftermarket parts! Love the bussmann boxes I'll definitely not bother mucking around with big DIY relay/fuse boards etc anymore. Thanks! The ducting takes a while, lots of planning, but i'm getting practiced at it now. Riveting makes it easy, no special tools required. I would love a bussmann box with more relays, I always seem to run out, but i prefer having everything centralized rather then have full amps going through a switch. I suppose PDM's are taking over that space, but they are still to expensive for number of outputs. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roman 15,276 Posted May 30 Report Share Posted May 30 This is shaping up nicely! Nice work on that console, looks great! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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