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Hyperblade's KP61 Racecar "KP61R" Discussion


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13 hours ago, smokin'joe said:

being contact with original builder is the key, from when i talked to tech office

It does make it easier, but you should still be able to get the changes through it just might need more pushing from your side.

I know someone who got an old cage homologated under the new rules so it is doable.

Of course if they want everyone to use HANS they are going to have to get their shit sorted as there will be a lot of cages which will need harness bars due to the belt angles.

Have a talk to Deane/Brent at Palmside (They did my cage changes) they might be able to advise you on if it's likely you can get your changes through.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Dang that axle popping, very lucky not to be hurt.

Do you think it was vibration at speed that caused it to let go? or was it just unlucky timing, would have thought it would let go at low speed where there is max Torque?

Excellent build love the setup.

LOVE BEAMS :)

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15 hours ago, _Matt said:

Love how this is coming along!

How did you remove the old underseal? I’ve started scraping mine off and it’s taking forever!

It's a nightmare.

I tried a number of things, but what worked best was a Clean and Strip Disc on a grinder

e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/10311-toolshed-clean-and-strip-disc-115mm?categoryId=1918

It doesn't heat it up so it comes off fairly well, it does however create massive mess (I'll still be finding bits in the garage for years to come)

However you do end up going through a lot of them as they wear out, and you have to be so careful you don't catch them on anything otherwise large chunks come off.

 

The other thing I tried that worked was an Oscillating Tools, it came off in nice flakes, the only downside was it was really hard to get into hollows and corners, but would work ok on flat panels. It was also fairly hard on the tool.

e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/6288-milwaukee-m12-cordless-multi-tool-12v-bare-tool-

 

I tried a wire cup on grinder and it just smeared it.

I've also heard water blasting it might be an option, keeps it cool.

 

12 hours ago, Matt G said:

Dang that axle popping, very lucky not to be hurt.

Do you think it was vibration at speed that caused it to let go? or was it just unlucky timing, would have thought it would let go at low speed where there is max Torque?

Excellent build love the setup.

LOVE BEAMS :)

We had just replace the rear universal, so it was ether an installation error, or it just was a cheap universal that failed. Certainly reinforces that having a drive shaft hoop is a must.

RE BEAMS, You might want to keep reading the build thread ;) 

 

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Anyone got any good info on plenum sizing?

Currently is 1.8L but I can easily add spacers to increase, from what I've seen on the internet people say around 3-3.5L is better, cause reasons... Negative maybe affects throttle response? Not sure if on part throttle how big an issue that is???

I have the space available so easy to do now... Might also allow injectors in their...

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  • 2 months later...

@Roman

Honda Plenum Sizing FYI

RBB (06-08 TSX)

  • Part #: 17110-RBB-000
  • Weight: 6.2kg
  • Throttle body opening: 60mm (with idle bypass)
  • Runner Length: 31.0cm
  • Runner width: 4.4cm (min)
  • Runner width: 4.8cm (max)
  • Individual runner volume: 492.5cc
  • Total runner volume: 1970cc
  • Plenum volume: 1650cc
  • Total manifold volume: 3620cc

RBC (CL7) (supposedly one of the best)

  • Part #: 17100-RBC-J00
  • Weight: 4.5kg
  • Throttle body opening: 62mm (with idle bypass)
  • Runner Length: 18.5cm
  • Runner width: 4.8cm (min)
  • Runner width: 5.1cm (max)
  • Individual runner volume: 270cc
  • Total runner volume: 1080cc
  • Plenum volume: 1720cc
  • Total manifold volume: 2800cc

RSP (FN2)

  • Part #:
  • 17100-RSP-G00
  • 17101-RSP-G00
  • 17102-RSP-G01
  • 17103-RSP-G00
  • Weight: 5.6kg
  • Throttle body opening: 64mm (no idle bypass)
  • Runner Length *1: 25.5cm
  • Runner Length *2: 19.5cm
  • Runner width: 4.8cm (min)
  • Runner width *1: 5.8cm (max)
  • Runner width *2: 5.1cm (max)
  • Individual runner volume: 295cc
  • Individual velocity stack volume: 105cc
  • Total runner volume *1: 1600cc
  • Total runner volume *2: 1180cc
  • Plenum volume *1: 2530cc
  • Plenum volume *2: 2950cc
  • Torque Chamber volume: 800cc
  • Total manifold volume: 4930cc

*1 with velocity stacks fitted
*2 without velocity stacks fitted

RRC (FD2)

  • Part #: 17100-RRC-000
  • Weight: xx kg
  • Throttle body opening: 64mm
  • Runner Length: ~ 19.0cm
  • Runner width: ~5.1cm (min)
  • Runner width: ~5.3cm (max)
  • Individual runner volume: xxxcc
  • Total runner volume: xxxxcc
  • Plenum volume: xxxxcc
  • Total manifold volume: xxxxcc
     

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

This is all coming together nicely! 

Good work on that ducting, looks great. Nice idea having those foldable tabs on the curved part.

And yeah it can sometimes be surprising how little thought goes into some aftermarket parts! 

Love the bussmann boxes I'll definitely not bother mucking around with big DIY relay/fuse boards etc anymore.

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1 hour ago, Roman said:

This is all coming together nicely! 

Good work on that ducting, looks great. Nice idea having those foldable tabs on the curved part.

And yeah it can sometimes be surprising how little thought goes into some aftermarket parts! 

Love the bussmann boxes I'll definitely not bother mucking around with big DIY relay/fuse boards etc anymore.

Thanks!

The ducting takes a while, lots of planning, but i'm getting practiced at it now. Riveting makes it easy, no special tools required.

I would love a bussmann box with more relays, I always seem to run out, but i prefer having everything centralized rather then have full amps going through a switch.

I suppose PDM's are taking over that space, but they are still to expensive for number of outputs.

 

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