Hyperblade 552 Report post Posted August 2 13 hours ago, smokin'joe said: being contact with original builder is the key, from when i talked to tech office It does make it easier, but you should still be able to get the changes through it just might need more pushing from your side. I know someone who got an old cage homologated under the new rules so it is doable. Of course if they want everyone to use HANS they are going to have to get their shit sorted as there will be a lot of cages which will need harness bars due to the belt angles. Have a talk to Deane/Brent at Palmside (They did my cage changes) they might be able to advise you on if it's likely you can get your changes through. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt 4,045 Report post Posted August 20 Love how this is coming along! How did you remove the old underseal? I’ve started scraping mine off and it’s taking forever! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt G 207 Report post Posted August 20 Dang that axle popping, very lucky not to be hurt. Do you think it was vibration at speed that caused it to let go? or was it just unlucky timing, would have thought it would let go at low speed where there is max Torque? Excellent build love the setup. LOVE BEAMS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hyperblade 552 Report post Posted August 20 15 hours ago, _Matt said: Love how this is coming along! How did you remove the old underseal? I’ve started scraping mine off and it’s taking forever! It's a nightmare. I tried a number of things, but what worked best was a Clean and Strip Disc on a grinder e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/10311-toolshed-clean-and-strip-disc-115mm?categoryId=1918 It doesn't heat it up so it comes off fairly well, it does however create massive mess (I'll still be finding bits in the garage for years to come) However you do end up going through a lot of them as they wear out, and you have to be so careful you don't catch them on anything otherwise large chunks come off. The other thing I tried that worked was an Oscillating Tools, it came off in nice flakes, the only downside was it was really hard to get into hollows and corners, but would work ok on flat panels. It was also fairly hard on the tool. e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/6288-milwaukee-m12-cordless-multi-tool-12v-bare-tool- I tried a wire cup on grinder and it just smeared it. I've also heard water blasting it might be an option, keeps it cool. 12 hours ago, Matt G said: Dang that axle popping, very lucky not to be hurt. Do you think it was vibration at speed that caused it to let go? or was it just unlucky timing, would have thought it would let go at low speed where there is max Torque? Excellent build love the setup. LOVE BEAMS We had just replace the rear universal, so it was ether an installation error, or it just was a cheap universal that failed. Certainly reinforces that having a drive shaft hoop is a must. RE BEAMS, You might want to keep reading the build thread 1 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt G 207 Report post Posted August 21 haha welcome to hondota club. k20 has so much easy potential too. nice choice. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hyperblade 552 Report post Posted August 24 Anyone got any good info on plenum sizing? Currently is 1.8L but I can easily add spacers to increase, from what I've seen on the internet people say around 3-3.5L is better, cause reasons... Negative maybe affects throttle response? Not sure if on part throttle how big an issue that is??? I have the space available so easy to do now... Might also allow injectors in their... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
