Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.

[~Slideways~]

Spoke to cert man and for the belt buckle he suggested finding a soft belt mounted one from another Nissan. Maybe the back seat ones will work, I don't think they will be long enough, otherwise I'll have a look at Pick a Part. 

Apparently Nissan uses their own buckle design.

I've ordered some Hardrace caster arms after confirming his is happy with them

Confirmed that the camber needs to be within 0.5deg of factory spec. Man that's strict, but hopefully I should be able to do that since the car isn't particularly low. 

Caster can be more than factory, but not less. So that's good, I thought maybe that would need to be within 1/2 a degree as well.

 

I thought this looked cool, loaded on trailer ready for the cert inspection and it could almost be a before and after photo:

[~Slideways~]

Ok so I got a bit side tracked due to being an idiot and buying another project.

But I have made progress on the cert list:

- I tried finding something that would work for the drivers buckle using the factory belt but ended up having to buy a new belt in order to use an adjustable buckle from Repco. 

- Bought and fitted some Hardrace caster arms to replace the ones he didn't like:

 

- I've sourced the correct BC bump stops, started to take apart the coil overs and this top nut did not want to move, I snapped 3 allen keys which shot across the garage, until this set up worked:

 

- Turns out I DID use spring washers on the engine mount brackets, but I've fitted some new ones anyway just to avoid any issue.

- Added spring washers to the engine mount through bolt and made sure it had more the 2 threads showing as per instructions.

- Added spring washers to the drive shaft loops, I did have spring washers on the floor mounts but not on three of the hard to get to ones which join the loop together.

- Gearbox mount, the studs in the 'Xcessive Manufacturing' mount weren't long enough to have a spring washer, they were supplied with nylock nuts. So I've fitted longer studs.

- Gearbox mount through bolts again weren't long enough to add a spring washer so I replaced with longer high tensile blah blah did things.

 

Still need to:

Add spring washers to the brake caliper adapters

Spring washers to seat bolts.

Correct Speedo reading. I had adjusted it with the wheels off the ground but he said during the test drive it was reading way too high. 

Show photos of rear wheel arch welding, if that isn't enough I'll have to take the fibreglass fenders off and remove the paint.

EDIT: and get a wheel alignment showing everything within 1/2degree of factory spec (caster can be more).

[Truenotch]

On 24/04/2019 at 12:56, ~Slideways~ said:

Spoke to cert man and for the belt buckle he suggested finding a soft belt mounted one from another Nissan. Maybe the back seat ones will work, I don't think they will be long enough, otherwise I'll have a look at Pick a Part. 

Apparently Nissan uses their own buckle design.

I've ordered some Hardrace caster arms after confirming his is happy with them

Confirmed that the camber needs to be within 0.5deg of factory spec. Man that's strict, but hopefully I should be able to do that since the car isn't particularly low. 

The answer is simple: Fit roll cage, get MSNZ Authority card, fit race harnesses and add as much camber as you need  .  

[~Slideways~]

Just now, Truenotch said:

The answer is simple: Fit roll cage, get MSNZ Authority card, fit race harnesses and add as much camber as you need  .  

Haha yep that is actually the plan but right now I am just jumping through the hoops to get it on the road.

[~Slideways~]

Did bump stop installs on these jobby's:

 

Also found that the brake caliper adaptor bolts are JUST too short once I add a spring washer, these are the supplied ones with the kit without springwashers.  So I got some 10mm longer ones from Coastal Fasteners and shortened them to clear the rotors.

One step closer to being back on the road, it's been off the road for 12 years.

[~Slideways~]

Alrighty, wheel alignment/camber/caster all adjusted and the bits that need to be within 0.5degrees of factory are fine.  Sweet, was a bit worried it would not have enough adjustment but its fine.

Went to adjust the speedo but it turns out that it is acting up again, its like the is a short somewhere and the needle keeps creeping up. Don't have the time to mess around as im running out of time for cert recheck. 

So I took the NZ spec cluster out of the other 200sx I have waiting for me to work on it. Wasn't sure if they would be compatible. 

Its a 240kph one versus the japanese 180kph I had in it from the import car/wreck/parts car.

Turns out it fits fine, even was able to keep the same odometer/trip meter.

So now it works fine and reads within 1 or 2 kph according to the GPS app I had running on the dash. 

Speedo mess:

 

But now I have a working 240kph speedo, so I've made the car way faster.

 

For some reason a few photo's stopped working...fixed now.

[~Slideways~]

Cool cert man OK'd the photo's of the welding on the rear arches. Taking it back next week to hopefully pass the rest of the stuff it needed.

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Well after a long weekend of nothing but sick kids, wife and myself feeling like arse.

This passed its cert!

fck yeah!

Now waiting for the plate to be made and then wof time, which I assume it will pass....

[kyteler]

Fuck yeah booooiiiii. Grats. 

[~Slideways~]

On 04/06/2019 at 19:19, kyteler said:

Fuck yeah booooiiiii. Grats. 

Fuck yeah Indeed. 

Fuck. Yes.

Feels like its been 10 days already, its really only been 2 days. Where is plate? WANT. DRIVE. NOW.

[~Slideways~]

Finally got the cert plate installed, but it failed it’s wof due to up and down play on both front wheels.

I think it might be wear in the coilover, possible the bearing in the top hat plate. It’s really hard to tell.

no side to side play at all so it’s not the wheel bearing.

Made sure the top nut is tight and seated.

The knuckle bolts are tight.

Camber plate bolts are tight.

Springs aren’t moving up and down.

So it must be the top plate or something inside the struts.

 

I can’t tell for sure what it is so I’m going to have to book it in to the local Shock Shop.

 

Hopefully it’s an easy fix. 

 

oh and it also failed on indicators flashing too fast, need to put some resistors into the LED circuit.

 

Frustrating.

[cletus]

Jack it up so the wheels are just clear of the ground, get a lever of some sort 

Put your finger in the gap between the strut top bearing and the housing

Wiggle the wheel up and down with the lever. If the bearing has play you will feel it

Put your finger on the shaft where it goes into the body and do the same thing, that will tell you if its play in the shaft

 

Check the jam nut on the shock is tight as, that's a common place for play

 

 

[~Slideways~]

On 21/06/2019 at 20:54, cletus said:

Jack it up so the wheels are just clear of the ground, get a lever of some sort 

Put your finger in the gap between the strut top bearing and the housing

Wiggle the wheel up and down with the lever. If the bearing has play you will feel it

Put your finger on the shaft where it goes into the body and do the same thing, that will tell you if its play in the shaft

 

Check the jam nut on the shock is tight as, that's a common place for play

 

 

OK I've done this (thanks for the info) and can definitely feel a tiny amount of play on the top hat nut. Can't really get my fingers in the gap but I can feel a tiny amount of movement in the nut. 

I THINK its up and down but its so tiny. The nut is as tight as I can get it. There is less play on the passenger side but its still there.

Don't think there is any movement in the shaft where it goes into the body.

So it must be the top hat bearings then?

[Truenotch]

@~Slideways~ - either top hat bearings or a mismatch with the spacers that slot into the top bearing. 

The spacers have shanks that slot into the top bearing, if they’re a bit long or machined a bit too small you’ll get the same play as a worn bearing.

If you replace the bearings, make sure to get good quality PTFE lined sphericals. Anything else will wear out in no time. 

[~Slideways~]

I bought some genuine BC racing ones so I knew they would fit, the idea being I wouldn't have to spend time finding options. Then I got a fckn chest infection for a week and didn't have the energy to work on the car.

But anyway, they are in now and I'm pretty sure its solved the play.

Now I just need to fit some resistors to slow down the indicators and take it back for a recheck. Then I can FINALLY drive it!

[~Slideways~]

awwww yeaaahhh:

Wof man even asked me if I wanted to put the sticker on lol.

first wof and reg in 12 years!

 

first proper drive and god dam it feels good! Need to do some AFR testing now that I can drive it properly but it seems pretty good already. pushing it a bit in 3rd under boost and it was around 11.5:1

Also have now realised I really need to do some heat management for the exhaust, the floor/tunnel is pretty hot...

 

tldr fuck yeah

[~Slideways~]

First time on the motorway, all going well, turn off then stop for a minute to check for any leaks etc. no problems.

Back on the motorway, no power engine almost died. Just manage to limp it to next off ramp. Idles fine but any throttle and it sounds like fuel starvation.

Limp back to my street which is a steep hill and it refuses any incline.

fuck. 

Try again, any load and it says no.

It must be fuel... or maybe the fuel is too hot from down pipe? (Does have shielding).

 

Start up again, idles fine. One last try before walking home to get trailer. 

Drives totally fine... but don’t try rev too much. AFR is really lean.

Must be fuel.

 

Park it and make dinner. Why is daddy grumpy. Because race car.

 

Late last night, removed filter. Stabbed with a sharpened flat head. Fuel drained out is full of fine rust like sediment.

I had a similar issue previously but the tank didn’t look dirty. The original fuel pump cradle had corroded but I swapped it for a good one early on before the engine ran (rolling body had to fuel pump). And the inside of the tank looked fine at the time. 

 

it must be coming from somewhere, either the lines or hidden in the tank somewhere.

 

I’ve put on a new filter but haven’t driven yet, confident this was the cause but still a problem to monitor. Plan is to swap it again after driving it for a while.

 

Long term I will move the fuel lines to the passenger side to get away from the exhaust. Maybe i’ll Need to remove and clean the tank. problems of a long sitting project?

 

Stabbed filter and gross rusty fuel that came out of it. The fuel coming out of the line looked clean, so the sediment must be building up really bad:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Nominal]

8 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

 

Late last night, removed filter. Stabbed with a sharpened flat head. Fuel drained out is full of fine rust like sediment.

I had a similar issue previously but the tank didn’t look dirty. The original fuel pump cradle had corroded but I swapped it for a good one early on before the engine ran (rolling body had to fuel pump). And the inside of the tank looked fine at the time. 

it must be coming from somewhere, either the lines or hidden in the tank somewhere.

Rust can get going inside a fuel tank that is empty/mostly empty for a long time.

[~Slideways~]

Ok it’s back to normal with filter change, need some dry roads to do some testing.

Have bought a couple of fuel filters, to swap a few times after some km’s.

Love the sound this thing makes.

[~Slideways~]

I’ve done 30 odd kms after swapping the fuel filter and no problems fuel wise.

But I did have an issue where the Innovate AFR gauge showed an E9 error. Which is low voltage. Pulled over, stopped engine. Tried to restart, battery barely has enoug for one turn.

fck.

Wife rescues me with jumper leads. Starts no problems.

Turns out the alternator stopped charging at some stage.

Couldn’t find any info about other Toyotas using the same alternator. So ordered a rebuilt one from North Shore Toyota, turned up the next day.

Am I weird for being impressed with how nice this refurbished alternator is? I would have said it was new. Apparently they are rebuilt some where in Japan.