Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.

[63Ragtop]

not to ever paint a fucking car again?

[~Slideways~]

Just now, 63Ragtop said:

not to ever paint a fucking car again?

HA! yeah that does cross my mind a lot. I actually like the painting bit, the body work, prep and sanding fcking sucks though.

If only I didn't have another one to paint... 

[~Slideways~]

Had another baby, so progress is super slow.

Bumper painted and fitted:

 

Guards and front bumper painted but still need wet sand then polish.

 

Bonnet and headlight covers were already painted white so they are the wrong shade. Will do them at some stage.

 

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Best update yet: Sun roof installed, it's a simple lift up type so I plan to try make a fibreglass or carbonfibre mould of the glass to reduce weight. 

The glass is pretty heavy but I just put it back in for now so I can get it going and ready for certification, still heaps more to do before then.

Phwoooarrr....sunroof, being all...sun roofy.

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Wet sanded and polished the front drivers side guard, came out nice. 

Fitted rear lights, I decided to try some aftermarket lights that came on the 180sx I imported.

They are type x 'style' LED things, I don't really like them (they look OK... I hate aftermarket lights though)... but I'll leave them on until I get some genuine ones since I do have the genuine Type X centre and lower panel (I haven't painted this yet).

Alternatively I could use some non-type x ones with the different centre and lower panel, I had intended to use those on the other project 200sx.

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Cut and polished the passenger door, guard and front bumper.

Fitted door and window trim.

Decided to fit some adjustable caster arms that I got with the imported 180sx. They look like good quality Japanese stuff but with out a brand on them I don't know if I can certify them. There is some Japanese writing but I think this is just a part number for the one part.

Fitted them so I could add some caster to add some clearance to the rear of the wheel arch at full lock.

They have a extra support arm which mounts to a subframe bolt, which is a nice design to stop flex.

The one I had on it have an offset urethane bush.

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Drove it around the block to test the AFR's, I set the Apexi SAFC II to  -16% across the board high and low throttle which should mean it is acting like 450cc injectors, which is 80cc more than stock.

1jzgte vvti injectors are 370cc

I have fitted ST215 injectors which are 540cc

So 540cc x 84% = 453cc

With a very quick test drive it seems to be getting around 0.7bar at wastegate spring pressure and the AFR's were around 10.5:1 at full throttle in 2nd which is still rich but thats a whole lot better than the super lean it was getting before.

Maybe I'll pull a bit more fuel out of it until its happy at spring pressure. Really need a proper test drive but this will be enough for cert I think.

 

It's out in the sun light! Still need to paint the rest of the Type-x stuff.

[Roman]

This looks great! 

Be cautious making fairly major changes with the SAFC because you are adjusting the ECUs load axis for both fuel and ignition timing. 

As in, ECU thinks there is much less air coming in so it adds ignition timing as well as pulling out fuel. So you will be much closer to knock threshold than a factory engine.

Also those tail lights look pretty good for aftermarket ones. Not too gaudy like most seem to be.
 

[~Slideways~]

1 hour ago, Roman said:

This looks great! 

Be cautious making fairly major changes with the SAFC because you are adjusting the ECUs load axis for both fuel and ignition timing. 

As in, ECU thinks there is much less air coming in so it adds ignition timing as well as pulling out fuel. So you will be much closer to knock threshold than a factory engine.

Also those tail lights look pretty good for aftermarket ones. Not too gaudy like most seem to be.
 

Thanks! The tail lights aren't too bad. I still want some genuine type-x ones though (the very late ones are LED too which is cool).

Yeah I am cautious of this, I didn't want to make too big of a change. This is a stop gap to get some seat time and then later I'll go with a Link capable of tuning the Vvti, just a car budget thing.

I'm basing this on my old JZX100 Chaser which was actually my wife's car (EDIT: it was an auto..shift kitted but still auto), so I'd left it stock except the exhaust. It made 170kw atw on stock boost of 10psi (rapidly dropping off to 6psi) and was very rich (in the mid 10's) at full throttle like most JZ's seem to be. The stock injectors and turbo seem to handle about 210-220kw in a manual one.

Maybe I'll get around 240kw with the bigger turbo and gobs of torque?

In the end with cam's and an ECU I'd hope for around 350kw on 98, but that's a few years off. If I go with E85 and supporting jobbies, maybe a million? 

 

[~Slideways~]

1 hour ago, Roman said:

Be cautious making fairly major changes with the SAFC because you are adjusting the ECUs load axis for both fuel and ignition timing. 
 

I remember seeing a guy on youtube do something similar with a non-vvti 1jzgte and SAFC II, I don't think he understood the percentages. I'm pretty sure he thought if you run a 50% bigger injector you have to set the SAFC to 50% too and wondered why it ran badly.

[Roman]

Haha classic. 

SAFC was such a staple of tuning in the early 2000s haha. 

Yeah Type X lights would be sweet of course.

E85 definitely seems to be way to go for a sweeeet power bump with minimal effort. 

All this 1JZ talk is getting me interested in doing some more work on the Z10 one day haha.

[~Slideways~]

1 minute ago, Roman said:

Haha classic. 

SAFC was such a staple of tuning in the early 2000s haha. 

Yeah Type X lights would be sweet of course, but those are decent too.

E85 definitely seems to be way to go for a sweeeet power bump with minimal effort. 

All this 1JZ talk is getting me interested in doing some more work on the Z10 one day haha.

Z10?...ZeDtEnNN? Interested!  

There's two Z20's up the road from me. Cool cars.

 

[Roman]

For sure, mind was blown the first time I saw a Z20!

There's a super mint standard 1GGTE one a few streets away from me. 

But Z10 is cooler /  harder to find / rustier / sucker for punishment / etc. 

[~Slideways~]

Sanded this stuff and ordered some primer, then went to measure the N360 just because.

[~Slideways~]

So painted these parts, they look exactly the same now.

[~Slideways~]

It's been ages since I've been able to doing anything in the garage but I recently started wiring in the doors, fitted the door cards, mirrors and sill trim.

Starting to look complete now. I even have a fuel filler flap.

[~Slideways~]

I still had the SR20 engine mount which probably aren't up to the task, definitely a bit soft anyway.

So I got some like these, random google image because I didn't take any photos:

They come with 4 washers each so you can adjust the height. It took 4 tries to get it perfect but its good now.

Passenger side is easy to get to and lift the engine enough to get the old mount out.

Drivers side was a bit cunty.

- Had to disconnect the exhaust at the bottom of the downpipe to stop it hitting the floor when lifting the engine.

- Then found I had to remove the clutch master to get enough clearance for the 3.5" downpipe to move up enough with the engine (much easier than removing the downpipe).

- Actual access to the mount was ok, my design of the exh manifold and wastegate pipe leaves enough room.

I had to try with and without the washers because there was a bit of compression in the mount when bolted down and the space between the front of the sump and the sway bar is very close. But it's good now, just annoying to redo it multiple times.

 

I was never too happy with the distance between the downpipe and the clutch master, I've found now that an S14 clutch master should fit and is much shorter. So have ordered one now.

Also ordered heat shielding stuff still to arrive.

And another Motobatt AGM jobbie since the old one died, I was going to look at lithium but I found this one for a good price. Just have to remember to isolate it.

 

No photo's, I'll take some later so its not just a bunch of boring words.

[~Slideways~]

Fitted the front lip and bumper end jobby things:

 

Short S14 style clutch master cylinder will give me good clearance to the down pipe compared to the original one:

 

Passenger mount installed (yes that shield is lime green, it was like that when I got it as a rolling body):

 

Drivers side mount, because you need two:

[HighLUX]

FYI those mounts will not pass cert as having 1 bolt from chassis to engine classes them as solid mounted

[~Slideways~]

2 hours ago, HighLUX said:

FYI those mounts will not pass cert as having 1 bolt from chassis to engine classes them as solid mounted

Well that sucks if that is the case...

 

EDIT: I'm reading an LVVTA doc now and can't see a problem yet (I'll change them if I have to though). Do you mean its an issue because the bolt goes all the way through? 

Wouldn't it come under this:

2.2(3) An engine mount fitted to a low volume vehicle must be designed and constructed in such a way that upon failure of either one or both of the engine mounts, the engine weight could not cause the steering system to become jammed or affected by engine weight, which may include either:

(a) an engine mount chassis or sub-frame bracket designed to prevent the engine from dropping; or

(b) a safety-type engine mount that features a through-bolt that prevents detachment of the mount upon separation of the rubber from the backing plate; or

 

I mean it is what it is so if they won't pass then.... balls.... but the doc also talks about where 'solid mounted' it basically just needs to be strong enough.